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Technical Shooting White

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blowby, May 4, 2016.

  1. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,197

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    I'd buy another 1/2 gal (or 2qts), gang mix all of it together before you add anything and plan on keeping the 2qts for future use/match needs. At 5qts ready to spray you won't have much margin for error, you'll also probably blow right through it if you plan to cut and polish the finish. If you're good with the gun and have a clean area you might like it as-is when sprayed out. My worry would be coverage if it's ready to spray with the addition of the catalyst. I'd wonder how "thin" it really is and then will you have total coverage over a grey base (yes, even a light grey base). Does part of your plan include sealing it 1st? If so you want a white sealer. Even light grey gets "dark spots" when mil thickness is marginal, and since that's out there now too you want a light handy to fix your vision as you proceed. While not as bad as yellow you'll probably have your eyes get "tricked" into thinking it's light in spots (yellow can leave 'green' spots in your visual perception). Having a drop light handy will solve it where you might see dark spots that really are not there. Bright colors are a bit challenging that way. If you do plan to cut and polish you want a minimum of 3 coats, maybe a 4th reduced at least 20-25%, only the last one, not all 4 coats. Apply that last one with twice the flash time from 3 to 4 and being reduced it will head right for the floor if you get too heavy. Good luck, hope those ideas help a little.
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  2. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,394

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Thanks Highlander. I have it 99% ready today so I should have time to go buy more paint in the morning. Wasn't planning on a cut a buff but I've said that before.... Yes a bit worried about seeing well with the bright white. Another student with excellent painting experience is going to help out, knows gun tips, booth prep, everything. Believe it or not, a girl!
     
  3. I have a vehicle that has an extremely hard paint on it. It chips when bumped. I think its Polyurethane.
    What is the best way to remove Polyurethane ?
     
  4. Paint Guru
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 522

    Paint Guru
    Member
    from Bowdon, GA

    A buffer with a 180 grit disc attached to it. If it's hard and brittle either too much Paint , or could not have good adhesion to the product below it. Most Polyurethane has good flexibility.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    56don likes this.
  5. wreckfixer
    Joined: Jun 15, 2009
    Posts: 317

    wreckfixer
    Member

  6. I probably shouldn't point this out but originally when I opened this thread up I figured it was a rant about Mr GWhite. LOL :D
     
    Paint Guru likes this.
  7. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,394

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Only one run! This is my O/T work truck so no photos. Good practice though, next semester I'll start on the Hamb stuff.

    The boring details:

    Hectic, hectic, hectic. I had hoped to go get more paint in the morning just in case but as I went over the truck 'one last time' I noticed several spots that still needed a bit of filler and primer, which ate up the morning. So loaded my materials and off to the college I drove (a short distance away so no bumpers, taillights, mirrors, door handles etc.). Spent a good two hours prepping the booth, getting the paint ready, taping the windows etc.. 4pm ready to paint, about the time I'm usually ready to call it a day. They have fresh air respirators, the air hose hooks to a waist belt, a hose goes from there to the gun and to the mask. Works great but a little bulky to wear, especially in this case as I had two portable benches, one on each side so I could climb up and squirt the roof, then climb back down and move them away to shoot the sides. I did manage however to complete the whole job without getting myself or the hose into the paint.

    First coat went on swell, then my class ended at 5pm and I had to wait until 7pm for the next class to arrive so I could continue. Oh well time to relax. Short lives because as I walked back in the booth for the second coat and was hooking up the hose to my belt I knocked over the gun hanging on the wall and spilled an entire fresh cup of the precious paint. Panic! Big cleanup but fortunately non hit the truck. The first coat I walked the entire length to do the sides, the second coat I did the fender, then the door, then the quarter. This led to the run at the end of the fender by the door, probably better to walk the whole length. Third coat fine and the last of the paint. Came out a little dry as I had to go a bit faster, running out of paint. After that put some straight reducer in the gun and gave it a quick blast to smooth it down some. Out of the booth and cleanup at 10pm, got a ride home.

    Going to need a cut and buff but not too bad. How long do you normally wait on catalyzed polyurethane?

    Thanks for all the advice.
    0510161842[1].jpg
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.

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