Thanks mate. Im following your build also. Trying to decide whether to delete the rear seams. Was it a common custom mod in the 50's and 60's? Cheers. Andy.
sure is andy..labour of love for 4 + years! shoeboxford has the goods..those guys have helped me out big time !!! james
From what I'm told , it was a pretty common custom mod back in the day . Looks pretty cool too - a mod that makes people scratch their head wondering what's changed .
Nice work Kiwiandy. I think those shoebox floors had a 30 year warranty. OR maybe the holes in the floor were for the typical Ford driver that dipped. You've got more patience than I do on the small areas. Project looks nice. There's a HAMB rule that the tedious work must include beer ...
I have a question for you. I found a 50 coupe that is in similar rusty condition, probably a little worse ( looks like it needs lower quarters & front fender dog legs, too). It has a 302 auto cobbled in it, & no interior. Is a turd like that really worth the $1500 he is wanting?(it has tar like crap on most of the sheet metal on the inside. is that stock?).... I want it bad! He has come down from $2500, won't go lower!
Buy the best that you can afford . I tell that to people all the time at our shop . If you can find a car for a bit more cabbage that's more solid , you'll be very glad you did . Look around & you'll find a nice Shoebox - they made a lot of 'em . Look to the west & you'll find a nice one . As for the car you're looking at ... I'd keep looking .
Thanks for the comments guys (and gals). Quote: <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by No Plan I have a question for you. I found a 50 coupe that is in similar rusty condition, probably a little worse ( looks like it needs lower quarters & front fender dog legs, too). It has a 302 auto cobbled in it, & no interior. Is a turd like that really worth the $1500 he is wanting?(it has tar like crap on most of the sheet metal on the inside. is that stock?).... I want it bad! He has come down from $2500, won't go lower! </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Hey mate, I would try and find the most solid and complete car you can for your budget. Buying all the little stuff can add up really quickly. In saying this, I still browse ebay now and again and see some high dollar cars that its obvious are likely still going to need some major repairs as they dont look to have been repaired correctly. I would recommend a good look under the rockers at the minimum. Post up a link if you find a car and there are plenty of people to give their opinions and advice Andy.
Been messing about with the front corner today. Still havnt got myself a TIG so im spending time going through and getting everything lined up. First off I set up the front body mount. I have shown the measurement of 137 mm as a reference only incase someone has no datum to work from. I drilled the inward mount hole to 3/8 (the bolt is 3/8 unc) but can enlarge it later if I require further adjustment. I also went through with a 3/8 starter tap and cleaned up all the mounting holes in the chassis. The lower door pillar was a mess with previous patch work. I took measurements and worked out where the new assembly from SBF.com would sit. It is long enough to sit up under the lower door hinge and has a pre-drilled hole. I decided to not mess with the hinge and cut in below it. There is a brace inside the dor pillar which I did not want to cut so after marking I cut deep enough to remove the old metal but was careful not to cut the brace. There were two spot welds which I drilled out and the rest of the welds I popped using an old scraper I have sharpened up. This works well.
It was about at this point that I opened up my index finger with a 1.2mm cutting disk in the angle grinder. I literally split my finger. It hurt. Anyway, I carried on and managed to get everything lined up. I will drill a couple of holes and spot weld through them and also tig around the joins. The photos below show the inner brace (rusty coloured) and how the patch was scribed and cut to fit. Cheers. Andy.
These folks sell the door hinge pins you're looking for if you haven't found any yet. I'm making some for my friend's car so we'll see how that turns out. http://www.ccrod.com/pdfs/page7.pdf
A few more pics. Havnt had a great deal of time but getting back into it. Still sorting out the structural rust. Here in NZ we need to get a repairs certified so all rust must be removed.
Cool. Nice work. I just posted your build thread in the shoebox group... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=29641 ...so now you've gotta keep going and keep us updated
Thanks. Not very exciting but it needs doing. Hopefully start fitting it all up this weekend. Cheers.
Progress is slow but steady. The engine is now rebuilt. 302 bored 30 over. Standard pistons, mild cam grind, rebuilt stock heads with new valves and springs etc. The engine and trans have also had the castings cleaned up just because. Cheers Andy.
Ive also shortened up the EMS outer rocker to the same length (the overall length is good but the area beneath the door is 1/8 inch to long) and also changed the angle where it meets the front fender to suit the original part. I choose to open up the three slots in the top of the rocker as it makes them easier to install and I will fill with fishlene or cavity wax after painting.
Hey dude sorry to hear you got a little burnt ,but now you'll know exacactly what you have plus a heap of knowledge with it , it's coming along well , keep up the good work
Thanks and you are 100% right... Im learning alot with this build. Ive had it about 7 years so im well over getting burnt. Besides, what goes around comes around. Cheers Andy
the extra little tab on or near the rubber pad looks like it is a assembly line locating tab. used by line worker to do the job faster. the ems guy
thanks for using our parts, fyi: tony thake @ northwestern ford is a ems dealer in new zealand, he is listed in petrol head, thanks the ems guy
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