I have been thinking about getting rid of the seams around the top of the cab and I figure I would weld them (I have two other cabs to practice on first). I hate seams and prefer a smooth finish. Nearly everyone I have talked to however, said that no matter how I do it, they will still flex and eventually crack. I could see them cracking if I just filled them with glazing or bondo, but welding them seems like it would prevent this. I would also like to shave the drip rails, but have been told the cab will eventually crack in this spot as well, no matter what. Like I said, I have two other cabs, so I figured that if I do small sections at a time, I should be able figure out how to do it. I have friends however, that are telling me not to do it, that it will crack. I've seen the finished product on cars that were done years before, with no cracking, so I am skeptical about the cracking. Is this a case of my desire to have it done clouding my judgement? Will it crack? What do you guys think?
Personally, I'd leave them. The seams add to that old-timey charm of those cabs. Smoothing them will make it look to much like a fiberglass repop. Just my opinion, which is worthless.
They leak, at best they are leaded in and the lead flux has made them rot, at worst there is a gap in there that is holding moisture and rust, metal work them away.
Well, in this case I am referring to a 57 F100. But I guess the question would apply to just about anything. I would think a car body would have more flex than a truck cab, but I am just guessing.
I'd say the seams are there because they can't stamp a whole truck cab out of one piece if sheetmetal rather than some need to flex. since in the old days trucks were workhorses, they left the seams rather than lead them in like they did on the cars. I say weld them up.
Leave them. They will crack. Same for drip rails. I also really like that look and had to learn the hard way.
Go for the look and for all the nay sayers, how many have they done, huh? There are plenty of successful examples out there. Recently I have been using J B Weld after the welding and like the results. Bondo or fiberglass reinforced bondo has cracked for me in the past.
If your filled seams crack then you didn't fill them correctly. 49ratfink has it right, no need to spend extra time and $$$ making a workhorse pretty...not only were there exposed seams, but many of the body panels did not fit very well. If you like the look, then weld them up and fill them in...
I was planning on filling the roof seem on the back of my 1960 cab top ,and as far as the filler a very reliable person advised me to use ALL METAL instead of BONDO.When I do it I'll let you know how it turns out.Good luck with your truck
all metal or anything like it is for hacks. a welded seam like that should take minimal filler if it is done right. probably get away with a few coats of high build primer and be done
ok well, I will let you know how this"hack" does with the all metal.I might take a pic for you so you can see that this seam might need a little more than a few coats of high build primer to do the trick.If you have any pics to show where you used high build primer successfully to fill seams where it then appears to be smooth and perfect,I would be very interested to see your personal work.
I will be doing this to my '59 in the near future. The cab has taken a hit in its past and the spot welds holding together failed. And while I have been able to get most of the curve repaired, the cab needs to be either spot welded back together, or the seam needs welded. I decided that it would look pretty neat with the seam gone and will be starting on it after one of our other car projects are finished. I am also planning on removing the drip rail. I may leave some over the doors, but mine are looking pretty bad and so I will shave them, and if I don't like it, make new ones. It's only metal after all.
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