Register now to get rid of these ads!

school me on using my hammer and dolly

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mat Thrasher, Jan 31, 2008.

  1. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    I'm welding the patch panels in my coupe and I have questions on the proper way to use the hammer and dolly. I've searched and everything says to scretch the weld beads after they shrink. Nothing tells the technique they are using. Do I need to hammer the welds when the are still hot? When I chopped the top I would hammer the welds from the backside with the dolly on the outside. From what I read this seems backwards. How do I scretch the bead if I hammer from the outside? Also I'm using a TIG.
    thanks Mat
     
  2. Take the Barbi,put it in a vise,and hit it repeatedly,LOL!!!!!
     
  3. Okay,enough of that. It takes practice to get the technique just right. The learning is in the doing. Have at it....
     
  4. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    I have been just want to make sure I doing it right.
     

  5. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    When it comes to hammer and dolly use, you're lookin' at two
    techniques: hammer on dolly, and hammer off dolly.
    To stretch a welded bead, the hammer on technique is used. Any
    time you are hitting the metal with a hammer above, and dolly
    below (metal inbetween) you are stretching the metal. The off-
    dolly technique will move metal, but not stretch the metal as the
    on dolly will. Your sucess at hammerwelding a tig bead , which is
    what the technique of hammering on a weld is called, will have alot
    to do with what filler rod you're using. You can hammer the welds
    cold as well as red hot. When you pick a dolly for hammerwelding,
    try and pick one that matches the shape of the panel you're weld-
    ing. The dolly is held firmly under the weld (best when still red hot)
    and struck with a wide faced body hammer, from above. The idea
    is to shape the weld and surrounding metal to the same thickness
    and uniform shape. Done properly, little or no filler should be neces-
    sary.

    Swankey Devils C.C.

    "Meanwhile, back aboard the Tainked Pork"
     
  6. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    Thanks pimpin paint. Just one question what filler rod should I be using? I'm using 1/16 mild steel rod not sure of the aloy. I see that some guys are cutting strips of sheet metal or using .035 MIG wire. Would you recommend either of these?
    thanks Mat
     
  7. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Mat,

    I've used rod with a AWS# (American Welding Society Number) , as
    sold for gas welding, strips cut from the parent metal, and "genuine"
    virgin coat hanger wire, all with great results. I haven't tried to make
    "mig'' wire work, as it is alittle hard to forge, onced cooled.
    What you're after is a welding wire that is roughly the thickness of
    the sheetmetal you're tring to weld together.

    good luck,

    Swankey Devils C.C.

    "Meanwhile, back aboard the Tainted Pork"
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.