Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods SBC starter ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by da34guy, Jun 5, 2023.

  1. Got a fairly stock 350 and having astart issue after driving 40/50 miles. It does have a ford solenoid wired in. If I let it cool down about 5 minutes it'll crank over slow but will start. Have about 20K miles on it and just started to do it. I'm thinkin -- new starter. What is the best stock type out there ?? Seems like all out there are just Chinamese rebuilt junk. Thanx in advance for your input
     
  2. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,644

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Sounds like it needs new bushings. Do it yourself.
     
  3. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,460

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    You are going to get alot of suggestions and opinions, Install a Oem newer mini style starter 95-1999 from vortec engines , diagonal bolts
    is for small flex plate ,straight across for the big flex plate
     
  4. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,742

    choptop40
    Member

  5. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,663

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Was it having a starting problem before installing the solenoid?
    I think the Chevy engine is rejecting that FFF@rd part.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2023
    mad mikey, Bob Lowry and da34guy like this.
  6. No , had the FFF@rd part on it since build
     
  7. TexasHardcore
    Joined: May 30, 2003
    Posts: 5,561

    TexasHardcore
    Member
    from Austin-ish

    Lloyd's paint & glass likes this.
  8. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Check the ignition timing, it may be advanced too far. A quick check can be done by pumping the throttle once, then cranking the engine. If it fires right up, that's a good indication the timing is advanced too far.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  9. Timing is dead nutz
     
  10. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 36,195

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

  11. chop&drop
    Joined: Oct 11, 2006
    Posts: 684

    chop&drop
    Member

    I had the same problem. Turned out the starter was “tired”. Replaced starter and never had the problem again.
     
    da34guy likes this.
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,642

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bushings and brushes are usually under 10 bucks for all of it.
    One thing though. There are light duty and heavy duty Delco starters. The light duty is shorter and the strap from the solenoid to the internals usually comes out of the body right at the end of the solenoid while the heavier duty starters need the extension on the solenoid to reach the strap.
     
  13. If you go with the mini starter - use the Factory GM unit and be sure to get the correct bolts. The bolts are available from the dealership. They are goofy and special the aftermarket ones just aren’t the same and cause you all sorts of aggravating crap
    10mm knurled shank with 3/8-16 thread.
     
    427 sleeper and mad mikey like this.
  14. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,940

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have you ever done a voltage drop test on the starter cables? Excessive voltage drop will show up more on a hot start. My 64 Chevy truck main cable to the starter would drop about 2 volts. So instead of trying to turn the engine over with about 10 volts (normal cranking voltage), it was only being supplied 8 volts. It started okay cold, but was sluggish turning over when hot.

    You can test this with a voltmeter. You have to have the starter cranking slow when it is hot. First check the voltage across the battery while cranking. It must be above 9.6 volts or you have a battery problem. Next, move the voltmeter + lead to the starter stud on the starter leaving the - lead on the battery terminal (it stays there through all this testing). Crank the engine and read the voltmeter. The reading must be within 0.5 volts of the reading you took across the battery. So if the reading across the battery during cranking was 10 volts and the reading during cranking at the starter terminal was 9.6 volts, you have a 0.4 volt difference which is okay. Anything above this reading indicates excessive resistance (voltage drop). Move the + lead to the starter case and crank the engine. The reading must be less than 0.1 volt or you have a poor ground circuit for the starter.
     
  15. 327Eric
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,201

    327Eric
    Member

    Quality cables are a must, but get back to basics and load test your battery. I went through all the troubleshooting on my 59, cables, solenoid, grounds, only to discover my relatively new battery was too weak. New battery, no problem since
     
  16. I have a couple of auto-electric shops I trust with starters, etc. I usually have a 2nd one built up and put away for a rainy day.
     
  17. Maybe pop the cap off the chevy solenoid, the main contact sometimes gets worn down to where the disc that comes up against it won't make a good contact. The bolt/contact has a square shoulder on it, you can flip it 180 and get some more life out of it sometimes.
     
  18. Dangerous Dan
    Joined: Jul 10, 2011
    Posts: 624

    Dangerous Dan
    Member

    Could be heat soak if it starts after cooling down
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.