Not sure if this is the correct forum to post this in or not. I need some technical assistance. I am working on a 1937 Ford pickup and it has a 327 sbc with a 350 turbo transmission. I have an original starter but have purchased a mini high torque starter for clearance room. Have a new Rebel wiring harness that I purchased from a vendor on here (good looking harness by the way). The old starter has the large stud that the positive battery cable goes to and 2 small tabs, one marked S and the other marked R. I'm sure the S is for the switch wire from the harness. the R is coming off of the resistor block i'm guessing. OK question is the new starter has the large post for the battery cable and one small post. Where will my "switch wire and resistor wire go" on this starter. any help is appreciated.
the wire coming from your ignition switch to the starter to activate it probably goes to that small terminal on the new starter or the "S" on the old starter. the "R" wire may or may not be needed...depending on if you are using points and a ballast resistor . that new starter doesn't have a terminal for it if you are using points there are a couple ways around that problem
check this out: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/no-r-terminal-on-starter-sbc-ballast.360515/
Use a relay as that thread suggested or use a push button wired from the fuse panel or other 12V source to the + side of the coil so you make starting the rig a two part process. Turn the key with one hand and push the button with the other. That relay setup triggered by the start pole on the switch is a slick one I never thought of though and with a lot of post 1975 Delco solenoids not having the bypass pole it's a good one to remember.
Ah Jim, you know "all the cool guys" run those "trick" starters. It gives them something to write about on the HAMB when the starters don't work right.
Put a diode from the S terminal to the coil side of the ballast resistor. Sure, it might drop the voltage to 11.3 or so, but it is much more than just using the ballast resistor voltage when starting. Cathode goes to ballast resistor. Use a 5 amp (or more) diode.
Put a toggle switch on the dash for the start mode, 12V to the coil side of the resistor and turn it off once the engine starts. That is how I do it anyway. Oh in answer the S wire in your harness goes to the little terminal on the starter.
Doing this only adds another voltage drop for the starter. Ford starter relay and Chevy solenoid, along with wire from Ford starter relay to Chevy solenoid will only put more resistance in the line, thereby less voltage to starter.
That it is seldom necessary with a mini starter. The big old GM starters were a heat sink and when run in conjunction with a set of headers they would get hot and develop a hot start problem, the minis don't seem to have that issue as a rule.
no need to use a big Ford relay for this. You can use a small ("Bosch" style) relay on the S wire, and it will accomplish the same thing.
Just saying the Ford Soleniod is easy to find and cheap and can be mounted where they are easy to get at for bumping the engine over with the starter.
LOL they make a button with two leads for that. Or you can out it in second and bump it backward with your knee.
Ford actually used their standard solenoid and a starter mounted solenoid (ala Chevy) on some cars right from the factory. I usually use the setup on anything I mess with pretty regularly. Easy to bump the engine over and a good place to hook up timing light when you've got a trunk mounted battery.
I think that some of the trucks actually had a bump button on them. At least I have seen them that way in later '60s F-150s.
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