THis is rolled-on rustoleum. Been on there 6 years and hasn't turned chalky. Spends most the time in the garage though.
It does not fully cure. You can ad a hardener to it. Can be thinned with acetone. Actually sprays ok. I recently started a chop on a shoebox. there was at least 6 layers of rustoleum. Doesnt sand worth a crap. and gummed up disk. Took hours to get sections of it off. For a shop style truck, its no big deal. But for a car that you want to eventually make something out of, you will kick your self later.
If people really want to do a cheap paint job and have no spray equipment or ability then I recommend they at least get on ebay and buy some automotive enamel, you can get it for as low as $50 and you can get hardener for it from the same seller usually. At least then you will have a paint job that should last like any other automotive grade enamel and it will harden in a day instead of a week, also if the time comes you can paint over it with regular automotive paints without any worry of it wrinkling or peeling off.
Maybe paint remover if you don't have a media blaster. You will go through a lot of sandpaper trying to remove Rustoelum and then it won't be such a cheap paint job anymore. If it's on there already maybe it can be top coated with something else. I heard a few people talking about the Sun Coating paint and they showed me pictures. They were painting stock cars with the paint. I went to the place that sells the paint and found out it was alkyd enamel. Lowes use to sell Valspar industrial enamel and they could mix any color that was available in the house paint. I don't know if it's still available. You can paint a car with urethane for about what it cost for a tank of gas now.
Hey, This product is a click above rattle cans, but not a big click! Prior to 1958 you had a choice of two kinds of automotive paint-lacquer & synthetic enamel, which is what the Rustoleum paint is. Paint technology has moved on, and improved, but does your project really warrant a three thousand dollar paint job? As long as you fully understand the products' uses and limitations, thin, roll and allow for the required drying time, go for it. Save the money you'd spend on a real automotive paint product for a real paint job. Anyone who would try to feather back a non catylized paint finish, or try and refinish over one, probably should take up golf. " Homie don't play dat thing "
When I built my 35 Ford pickup from the frame up, my children were young and as a single father I didnt have all the time needed to get all the ripples and imperfections out so I painted it with porch and deck enamel because I knew it would dull and chalk in about two years and hide the less than perfect body work. It did. I'm happy
I sprayed the yellow truck. It got hard and dry. Dont know what those other posters do to keep it where it wont dry
Decades ago a cheap paint job meant adding hardener to alkyd enamel(house paint). Made for a harder and more durable finish than the other options which were farm implement paint or tremclad...
I sprayed my '33 pickup with Rustoleum. It's thinned and I added hardened to it. After about a month of curing, I waxed it. So far so good. Here is the shitbox in Rustoleum green with 25% black mixed in:
I had no problem with runs. You thin the professional grade that comes in gallon cans with mineral sprit 50%. Being so thin surface tension is enough to hold it in place. You have to use a light touch when you apply the paint. Also the foam roller is a sponge you can use it to remove an control the amount of paint applied. If a bug lands on the paint just flick it off and re-roll. You cant do that with a spray gun. For some reason that I dont understand thinning rustolum with mineral sprits changes the paint from the nasty stuff we all know. It dries very fast (4or5 hours) and harder than chinese arithmetic. I had to use 320 paper to sand between every 2 or three coats. Any thing finer would not bite in. You can apply two coats in one day. Six coats will do but it gets hard to stop. The more coats you apply the smother it gets.
Really. I sprayed Rustoleum thinned with mineral sprits and let it sit out in the AZ sun and there was no way it dried in 4-5 hours let alone 2 weeks. It was tack dry but there was no way it was what I would call dry. It gummed the sand paper right up. If you are use to using crap then you might not know the difference. Sanding cured urethane is night and day difference. People read some of the nonsense about a do it at home roller paint job and believe it. They never tell you how many hours they spent trying to fix it and how much the supplies really cost. Rustoleum probably has a place on junk that does not have real value. You can pay for a whacked paint job now or pay for it later when it has to be fixed.
Not by trade name, but they did use alkyd enamels back in the day. Alkyd enamel was once the standard of the industry. This is hamb, get used to occasional low buck threads...
Geeze oh Pete's guys , it's better than rust and unprotected old iron. I use it on stuff where the finish won't last no matter what you do. Like trailers, dump trucks , occasional underbodies, floor pans and the like they can't be bare, yet they get the paint beat off of it in a few years. It's very durable for being junk and looks pretty good on a prepped surface. Not everyone can afford a shop quality job, and more importantly the DIY guys can get into more trouble using real stuff because most of them won't read a tech sheet or even look up what the big words that are in hardeners. Some have no place to paint a car, more time than money and can do the "$50.00 paint job" in a Walmart parking lot next to the RVs. I'm painting some closet doors at the house in the garage. Want them super shiny black and i don't want to spray or take them off & especially spray isos in the house or neighborhood. So they are getting the "50.00 paint job method" as we speak. If I remember I'll post some pics when they are finished.
this is my bike. Normally I wouldn't post a picture but since the topic is paint I did.this paint job I did cost me less than $60. I even used blue shop towels and masking tape to mask off the strips. It was painted in 2009 and it still looks good. If your looking for a crowd pleaser I even won two shows with it. I entered just to be an ass. I'm good at that. And yes it was rattle canned. But it was done being wet sanded in between coats. I wax it and that protects the paint. How ever I am going to be repainting it with metal flake and candy when I get home in the fall. The thing is roll with what you got. At the time I didn't have money for a real paint job. So I had to do what I could till I was able to get the real thing. How much more "traditional" can you get than that...... -Fat Chico Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The thing with me vic, I've spent the better part of 40yrs doing things the right way. In the beginning I did some stuff I would never consider now, and most of those choices were an attempt to fit someone's budget just to get the work. If one wants to, there's always a way to get good work. Hustling cars and parts, bartering labors, doing side jobs within one's exclusive skills, anything really. Doing cheap work isn't really something to get on the rooftops and crow about. I get the "one color" thing, I get it for a trashy utility vehicle or implement, I don't get feeling all proud and special because it looks good at the moment. All of these cheap applications have their place. And last but not least, how much does that Rustoleum finish devalue an otherwise desirable car? Cheap choices have consequences sometimes. In the end it's not my car, not my work, so rock on kids. Wait, did I say that already?
I shot all but one of my circle track cars with it...thinned it 25% with acetone...no hardener...dried hard...no runs...looked good from the stands covered in dirt...easy to touch up with spray cans right of the shelf...i tried once with mineral spirits and it took 2 days to dry... my 34 pickup i have $150.00 invested in the cab and doors...its getting a roller job as we speak...the frame is painted with their hammer tone black...straight from the can with a brush..hard as a rock in about an hour...fire wall was brushed with their sand color also hard within an hour....cab and bed are getting their rusty metal primer and top coated with their burgundy color.. is it going to be a show car finish...no....but it will look just fine cruising down the road. so far i have $40 in paint and primer and another $25 in foam brushes and rollers....
Man you sure are beating the drum against this, but really shows what you don't know about it. I've did two cars this way, one 7 years ago and one just over the winter. Hell I wet sanded one day and painted the next, don't preach it doesn't harden because it certainly does. Speaking of beating, these threads are like beating a dead horse. Always two separate crowds that either love it or hate it. Anyone that has done it will agree that it's not as perfect as a show stopping multi stage paint job. But from 20 ft, it's kind of hard to tell the difference and spending thousands of dollars to take those twenty steps is an expensive walk.
Yup,it works fine if you know a little about what your doing,too many here just don't and say how they do! Over the 70 years plus of my life,I used it when on low $ and works fine,prep as always is a lot, but yes I use a dryer,this last time I got Majic catalyst hardener for oil base paint in it #8-0950-4 and thin with mirelsprits,great no prob ,lots of high gloss too. Sure I like painting with the new two and 3 part paint better,but can't $ do it all the time on retiremint.
I've used Valspar on projects at work and I like how it sprays and dries. I always use their hardener. The few times I use Rustoleum I also added the Valspar hardener and it seemed to make the paint dry faster but still took longer than the Valspar. I painted my kid's cow feed mixer, about the size of a one ton truck with Valspar about two years ago. This thing sits outside all year, burning sun or blowing snow and it still looks pretty go with no chalking at all. One bit of warning. I always add the hardener when I spray it so last year I decided to add the hardener when I roll painted a work bench. The first coat went on great, I let it set up a few minutes until it got touch dry. As I started applying the second coat the second coat started picking up pieces of the first coat. It ended up have little spikes all over, I could live with it on a bench but not a car. You don't want to use lacquer thinner as a thinner for any paint unless you're sure of the sub surface. Lacquer thinner can lift paint in sheets if you have a weaker paint under it. Also, we used to use lacquer thinner to thin acrylic enamel in the body shop I worked in back in the '80s. The boss did it on rush jobs, the paint dried supper fast but not quite as shiny if he had did them correctly. You had to make sure you recoated before the first coat completely dried or it'd lift the first coat. A few time my boss got bit in the ass doing this either because he waited too long before applying the second coat or he sprayed a car he didn't know had previous paint work done to it. Then the rush jobs turned into longer time jobs.
Don't know of any tricks other than not getting it too thick, it's actually really easy to apply with a roller. The most important thing is don't press down too hard, both in the tray and on the surface. This will create paint bubbles from the foam, and transfer them to the surface. Also important when using a brush, don't dip the brush too deep less than an inch, and don't scrape the brush on the edge to hard, as all the bubbly paint drips into the cup. Like carbonated water. Better to do a tap and light scrape. Those bubbles turn into big pinholes or bare spots when they pop. Just my 2 cents! TP
The only people who will give you crap about your Rustoleum job are guys that own paint & body shops and are pissed you arent spending $5000+ at their place. Rustoleum rules.
I used up some of a leftover half gallon of the True-Value equivalent, Rust-X, on a beater a few years ago. Painted it with a roller, but a rushed, sloppy job so it had some runs. Well, the run beads never did cure up. But I have always assumed it was in part because the paint was old and turned out to have been left outside in the other car that was painted with it, all winter. Now that car's sat outside all this time and it's starting to fade/chalk up, but that beats rusting further. My current beater I used the spray cans on. Stuff you drive here in the winter rusts especially if it's rusted when you get it, so I have to redo it fairly regularly anyhow, and I needed to make it all match after swapping some doors around. What I've noticed is the plain white kind of yellows in time; the 2X coverage burgandy has gone flat, but other than that it's okay. It does load up the sandpaper when I need to scuff it down, but you knock it off there and go again.
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