i am financhily challenged(cheap) i want to buy some roller rockers for a new engine i have. should i get the stamped steel ones or pop for the comp cams magnum ones. what do you guys think?
If you get some....make sure they are full roller.......not just the tip. The fulcrum is where you lose the friction.....(if I explained that right....lol)
Type of engine? Typically anything stamped is junk, and not full roller. Unless you're running high spring pressures, then any cast aluminum full roller rockers will work. I've seen a Harland Sharp snapped in half before from a few runs, and have had a cheap set of full rollers last forever on a mild engine. To those that say roller is un-needed, why wouldn't you want to free up some friction, and prevent less metal particles going into your oil from the wear at the ball fulcrum.
Didn't realize long slots fit every engine. Since we don't know the engine or application, how is it they don't make the engine better?
If you're dealing with a SBC I agree with Brandon, go full roller or if you can't afford them use the stock stamped steel. Every engine builder I know says the roller tip only is a waste of money.
sorry should have stated it is sbc, mild build but built for performance. to unki ian i dont need them persay just a want thing. i have never run them before ,hence the question. thanks again for all the replies. i have a friend who races says he never uses them. that is what i wanted ,opinions
Chevy built a bunch of little screamers back in the day using stamped rockers... So I say, why not???
Careful of summit, most of the stamped longslot and stamped roller tipped rockers they sell are from some chinese village, the steel isn't treated right and i have seen them fail with the pushrod driven straight thru them! Make sure the stuff you get is made in America, or the brand name suppliers like Comp Cam etc - if you the 'white boxed' or summit house brand will might have some serious problems (not just summit, same is true of jegs, chet herbert etc). I have a shop with retail and i get offers that if i commit to buying a certain amout of product they'll put my name, logo on it and provide the packaging. And that stuff is usually dirt cheap.
Genuine roller fulcrum rockers do make a difference over a set of stamped long slots. Stamped steel rocker with roller tips are kind of a wash as far as I'm concerned. I have a set of crains on my small block that have been on for over 100K. Prior to that I was breaking rocker studs all the time. Often enough that I could change a stud and be back on the road about as fast as most people change a tire. I would not invest the cash in either on a stock engine. For a stock or nearly stock engine waltspuffer is absolutely correct. Just a set of long slots and you are in like Flynn. If someone doesn't name their particular engine it is normally a pretty safe bet that it is an SBC.
We have proven on the engine dyno that even a roller tip will " free " up a small amount of horsepower. For a lower end build, I like the ones that Speedway sells. They are only $80, they are Stainless Steel, roller tip, come with locking adjuster nuts, and we have several guys in the area that run them daily. Full roller are undeniably best, avoid the cheap ones { white box } like the plague. MUST READ - Being sure you have the correct " geometry " is more a important aspect than any rocker arm alone.
I always figured that any way to reduce friction would drop temperature and probably increase fuel economy. I've run them on lots of cars that get driven on the street, just never a daily driver. Always wondered if they would hold up to 10,000/15,000 miles a year. Anyone have experience with high miles and roller rockers? I also kind of wondered what brand of roller rocker Chevy uses in the Ramjet engines. I don't firgure they make their own, but I could be wrong. Gotta happen sometime (sometimes several times a day. LOL) Larry T
Crane supplied Ford Motor Co. with 1.7 roller rockers and were factory installed on the '93 Cobra 5.0L Mustang...
I have over 75,000 miles on my Mustang that was my only car and 3 years worth of nitrous and racing. Just don't buy cheap shit and they will be fine.
I fully agree with those that said don't buy the cheap ones if you buy any. I've been there and done that with not the best of luck. Since, i have been using nothing but Comp Cams Magnum rockers and have not had a problem since. Just over 15K on the truck in my avatar in 2 years, running a 510 or so solid cam and sportsman II heads with Comp full rollers. I check lash once a year and thats all i have had to do. I've used Summit brand full rollers on a couple motors i built for customers ( the aluminum ones) and had 2 failures...Well, one failure, one design flaw. Had the fulcrum bearings chew out of one with under 5K miles, and another had the roller at the tip made a couple thousanths off at the center pin right from the get go and i could not get it to lash properly. Just adding my 2 cents. Tony
Geometry. Definently helps....I had issues with a cheap set that had a poly lock that was riding against the body of the rocker....a broken stud occurred as a result. One thing about a decent rocker....your not as likely to split the bottom out of it or shove a pushrod thru....
On a mild street motor, you would be better off with stock OEM rocker arms, than some cheap imported roller rockers.
I have run proform blue rollers from jegs for ten years now on a 450hp sbc that was daily driven at times, sometimes it was the only car I owned. Same set no failures, but I have replaced customers cars after only six months, it's hit or miss, good thing is I have plenty of partial sets for when disaster strikes.
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