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Technical Rod End Lubrication?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blues4U, Aug 4, 2016.

  1. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

  2. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 5,378

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Those are not made to be greased. Least I've not seen any that had zerts. You may also hear some noises like clunking from them. I would not use them for street car. But I'm very hard headed.
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,907

    squirrel
    Member

    I have them on the tie rod and drag link, and rear traction bars, on my Chevy II, so far with 12k miles they are holding up ok. No lube. Inspect them regularly for wear.
     
  4. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    The top photo is a tie rod end, the bottom photo is a hairpin mount.
     

  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,682

    Blue One
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    from Alberta

    I would replace them both with a proper tie rod end.

    If they have the common 5/8" thread size that a lot of rod ends do, So-Cal sell tie rod ends in that size specifically for replacing rod ends.
     
  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,686

    gimpyshotrods
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    I never use those on anything that sees time on a public road.
     
  7. I use "seals it". They are available from Speedway motors and right from the manufacturer. http://www.sealsit.com/rod-end-seals.html
    Slather on the grey moly lube and they are good to go for a few years. You could even sneak a grease needle under the rubber every spring. I agree with the inspection comment and the comment about not really being designed for street use (heim joints). Run them unprotected? No thanks.
     
    Nailhead Jason likes this.
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,686

    gimpyshotrods
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    By the time that they are showing rust, they are past the time that they need to be thrown in the dumpster.
     
    F&J likes this.
  9. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    These? http://www.est1946.com/tierodend-58-18thread.aspx

    No way to lube these either, eh?
     
  10. Hot Rod Rodney
    Joined: Jun 20, 2014
    Posts: 158

    Hot Rod Rodney
    Member
    from USA

    The life of heim joints used on the street can be greatly extended with the rubber seals sold by Speedway. Keeps dirt out, lubrication in.

    And please ignore those who sneer at heims; since they hate them so much, I doubt any have actually used them! I've used them on street-driven hot rods for many years; never actually had one wear out (cuz I use the seals?) but if they do just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one - much easier than replacing a tapered tie rod end, so you're more likely to do it.

    sit-ws6250_grp.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2016
  11. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,228

    tubman
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    I have a large one (3/4") on my rear suspension. It has a hole in the threaded shaft that allows grease to be forced up to the spherical part. I have a zerk in the shaft the rod end screws into that allows me to force grease into it. I don't have any experience with smaller ones to know if they have this feature or not.
     
  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,686

    gimpyshotrods
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    And some of us have. I have been a successful chassis and suspension builder for a couple of decades.
     
    TagMan and Special Ed like this.
  13. I never use them on steering systems. I have used teflon lined ones for rear suspension links, but they are 3/4 shank and 5/8" hole. Those look tiny and inadequate.
     
  14. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 7,194

    jimmy six
    Member

    I try not to use them on street cars but on our race cars I reach in and wiggle them back and forth between every race. For lube I use one of those needle lube pens from Pro-Long.
    Also there are many rod end bearings that should never be used for auto use. There is a web site for racing ones which are much better. Good luck
     
  15. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I've run those on everything with zero problems. The ones on my 27 have been on the road for about 26 years, and are all over the car, front and rear.

    In fact, we just installed a Steeda front end setup under my sons OT Mustang, and it comes with rod ends instead of tie rod ends.

    Don
     
  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,682

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Yes those.
    I bought 4 polished SS ones to replace the rod ends that I had originally started my build with on the wishbone to frame ends.
    While there is no way to lubricate the tie rod ends they have the advantage of being sealed from the weather and internally lubed so should be better and last longer than a rod end.
     
  17. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Are they sealed Don? Do you lubricate them periodically?
     
  18. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    So I'm thinking about this, but tie rod ends have a tapered shaft, don't they? How did you deal with that?
     
  19. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,062

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    If you want to use a ball type rod end , thats fine, but the one that is shown (2 piece) is the cheapest one made and some chinese ones are starting to come in (cheaper yet). Stick with names like Auroua, FK, NMB, FAFNIR, HEIM(that is the brand name) and go with the 4130 housing and teflon lined, the Seals-it is a plus. They are going to be a lot more than $11 each, but isnt your ride worth it?
     
  20. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,224

    Jmountainjr
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    Should you choose to use a quality rod end on street driven applications, in my opinion, you should run a heavy washer under the bolt head of sufficient OD to prevent the rod end body from coming off the bolt should the rod end come apart.
     
    pat59 and Tetanus like this.
  21. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    This isn't aimed at me, is it? Just a point being made in general, right? I'm not arguing about using rod ends or tie rod ends, just asking questions.
     
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,682

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I bought a tie rod reamer from Speedway.
    The taper is 7 degrees, so you can ream the hole to fit the taper of the tie rod.

    On my frame since the tie rod fits the frame differently than the rod ends I had to modify the mounting points and made new plates with the 7 Degree tapered hole cut with the reamer starting with a 1/2" hole.
    Then I welded them into the frame.
    It's all in my build thread.

    You can ream out a 5/8" hole in a tie rod end and as long as you can get the 7 Degree taper for 1/2 the thickness of the steering arm, a tie rod end will seat on that taper and work fine.
    Starting with a 5/8" hole like you have in the tie rod ends going 1/2 way through will give you a perfect taper for the tie rod ends.

    There are actually pitman arms that are sold that way with the taper cut 1/2 way through from both sides so that you can connect to them from either side.


    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-7-Degree,2918.html
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2016
    Blues4U likes this.
  23. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 3,557

    denis4x4
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    from Colorado

    Here are mine with Zerk fittings image.jpeg
     
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  24. Rogue63
    Joined: Nov 19, 2010
    Posts: 228

    Rogue63
    Member
    from New York

    Glad that someone mentioned about washer of sufficient dia. So if one bearing goes it won't allow the joint io fall apart or off. I think it's a requirement. For some racing events.
     
  25. chargin03
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 450

    chargin03
    Member

    I would not use them on a street car but if I did I would use a flat washer on them like Jmountainjr said.Use to run them on stock cars with a flat washer.
     
  26. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,318

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    With the rust coming out of the hairpin one looks like the ball and bolt connection must have some movement in it.
    And as dreracecar said don't shortcut on these parts.
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  27. Rex_A_Lott
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,018

    Rex_A_Lott
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We used these on dirt modifieds and lubed them with the CRC white lithium grease in a spray can. But these were washed and lubed every week. They usually got bent or broke from wheel contact before they ever wore out.:(
    Part of the reason we used them on the tie rod was so we could drill the spindle out and use a spacer to help with the bump steer, not really a concern for you. Good Luck
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  28. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,318

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    The thing about some spray lubes is it will let the dirt stick to it so you would have to wash and re'lube after every trip.
     
  29. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,907

    squirrel
    Member

    that's why I don't bother lubing mine...
     
  30. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,885

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Yeah, that was my concern, and why I thought the dry PTFE lube might be best, it shouldn't attract dirt.
     

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