Projects RHD '32 5W Build Thread: Pics...ideas

Here's mine, channel and no chop, midwest style baby! I'm 6'2" so it is a tight squeeze if you're gonna channel and chop it. But mines not too bad, I dont hit my head on the ceiling anymore now that I put lower profile seats.

 

Thanks Frank. As long as Hambers don't get sick of my inane questions and obvious ignorance I'll keep posting. Not sure I'll be able to go fully pre-65 but if I can fit what I like within the era I don't mind. The other day I was thinking that (due to a suggestion in another thread) I need to be year specific - espcially in the 60s and seeing as though I was born in 1964 I might go with the theme of "it had to be made before I was born". I have many early 60s magazines and have been spending hours each day over the last few weeks trying to find parts advertised and styles to my liking. I have a desire for loud lumpy power, big rear tyres and a perfect rake. Apart from that I'm all ears and eyes.

I don't mind solid colours but I have always pictured myself with a bright yellow car with lots of chrome so I'm not sure it'll fit the pre65 theme of this board (was the Graffiti coupe authentic for 62?). Was yellow even a "hot rod" colour back then (by 1964)?

 

You posted your yellow car just before I pressed submit! Cool. Rear guard reveal to tyre placement is perfect. Cool stance. Me likely.

As an aside has anyone noticed my door handle placement?



It's wrong.

The previous owner said that sometimes people installed 34 door mechanisms because they were "better". It feels good and solid to me.

Can anyone shed any light on the history of this "normal" door mod? I can remove the door boards and take a picture if anyone needs to see. I don't hate the look or placement and if it'll be a hassle to move I don't mind leaving it the way it is. The doors open and close fine so unless someone says "it MUST be moved back" I'll leave it.

 

I have a deep desire to start rubbing the paint off to reveal all the metal underneath. I've seen lots of bare metal cars with not much surface rust. Is there something I should (at least brush) over the exposed metal? Or...should I try to keep the original undercoat/primer in tact? It might be too late for that but once I was told off (severely!) by a painter for sanding through the original paint on a '56 Chevy I used to one back in the 80s. He said no new primer will be as good as what they used back then or perhaps he was alluding to the thickness? I'm not sure but I do know he was pissed off! I'm all for "just doing it" but sometimes people make stupid mistakes...like rubbing off good primer - like I did. Or was he just talking shit?

As an aside; The previous owner sanded back a small section on the roof and it revealed a turquoise/light blue colour. Not sure if it's original (I thought they came in only a few basic colours like black, dark blue, brown or maroon) but I haven't looked at a colour chart from 1932 so I'm talking without knowledge. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

To do it right, it has go go to bare metal anyway. You don't want to attempt a nice paint job over an unknown base. Strip it while you ponder build styles. A lot of people here have had good luck using Gibbs over bare metal. You can find info on it at www.roadsters.com.

If you wanted to do a "scuff & puff" paint job over old paint then yes, you don't want to sand through if it isn't necessary. Few hot rod projects are candidates for a "scuff & puff" though.

Properly prepped & applied, today's primer is as good as any OE primer. Your painter was either just a jackass and/or was just trying to reduce work on his end & maximize his profit on the job.

Strip it. I want to see what you have under that old paint.

JH

 

Sounds like a plan. What grades of paper would you use? I don't want it to take forever and I don't want to massacre the metal. I'll be using hand tools only though I have a small compressor I'd prefer to do it by hand...call me crazy but I want to really get to know the body and what better way than "hands on" - right?

Took some more shots while I was out there. This one's cool.


The black rimmed guage is non-original but the Speedo and Fuel guage have stainless trim. The stainless trim around the dash is in great condition (needs a polish - maybe). What is that peeling from the top? I ran my finger over it and it's not thick like a plastic coating but more like a "protective" coat. Love the engine turning.

Again in B&W.

 

I'd tape off the gaps & strip it with aircraft stripper. Finish the panels with 80 grit on a dual action sander. Then hit the jambs with more 80 grit. Finish by media/sand blasting the hard to reach areas.

Removing multiple layers by hand is going to cost you a billion dollars in sandpaper & your finger prints. Any way you go, you're going to know every inch of it by the time you're done.

Of course, if $$$ is no object, a full media blasting would be the fastest way to go. Be sure your blaster knows what he is doing though. You don't want it warped beyond repair from harsh sand & excessive air pressure.

JH

 

DA sander it is. Thanks for the steer-clear on the hand sanding.

 

Some extra bits I paid extra for...



Dickie Seat (nice and soft!) boot/trunk gutters a whole set of perfect garnish molds, a set of glass (except windscreen) and the original firewall was also in the "stuff I could buy at the same time". The floor boards are just lined up for my own inventory. The grilles are a brand new stamping 33 and an original 32 with 3 wonky bars. The original seat floor section won't be used with the new cross-members.

 

Harrison is right, forget doing it by hand. Its hard enough and takes enough time using chemicals and power equipment.

For stripping paint or rust I like to use a 7" angle grinder or a 4 1/2' Makita grinder with a stripper disc. They are made by 3M and Norton. Eastwood sells them too. They are an open fiber mesh disc that removes the paint fast (Much faster than sandpaper) without hurting the metal. It leaves the metal nice and clean with a good finish ready for primer. No heat or abrasive scatches either. They do a great job taking rust scale off. Use them on all the flat areas inside and out and then use abrasive (sand/Black Diamond) blasting on the rain gutters, door jams and any other areas that you can't strip with the disc. I like the Norton Rapid Strip disc 4 1/2" X 5/8-11 (Part No. #04015 $6.50 ea.) and the 7" X 5/8-11 (Part No. #04013 $10.00 ea.) because I can get the best deal on them and they last a long time. I do it outside so the dust blows away and there isn't any mess to clean up.

 

Cool! Thanks a lot for that. Stripper disc sounds like the best plan.

 

i say..
do whatever you want to it, thats the cool thing about hot rodding
there is no "correct" way of building one

 

Thanks Paul. I'm finding my way, slowly but surely.

Had a busy and fun weekend. Started using the stripper disk and that worked and I'll use it but in the end I decided to go chemical (for the major flat areas at least) followed by stripper disc to take it to metal.



Then used the stripper disk to remove the final softer primer. Now, I know it looks like "WTF?!! What's he doing?!" because it looks like I'm taking to the top with the edge but the disc is quite wide (here I'm using the double width wheel for large areas) and that's how it's used and I'm applying really light pressure. No plastic filler so far though.



But then I just decided to sell the chassis. You guys must be having an effect on me because it was just too modern. One local rodder wanted the chassis for his new RPU and offered to swap some unused chassis rails,



...and a really good set of 33/34 commercial headlights...



and the rest in cash. YOINK, I couldn't be happier and he was a top guy and we spent hours talking. Howdy Rod!

Anyway, so I had to figure out a way to lift the body by myself so I head off to the hardware store and stocked up on dogs, straps and ratchet clamps. After a few beers and some head scratching I eventually managed to lift the body off the old chassis...



...and placed it gently on the new rails which I had mocked up using two threaded rods on each end through the spreader bar holding bolt holes. You can just see them at the back. After a few tries I managed to get the car off the straps (not as easy as I thought - but I managed somehow) and onto the ground.



I couldn't resist a fresh mock-up and grabbed the only whitewalls I had lying around (excuse the radials - this is just a mock-up, they belong to my old 66 Buick Electra which I sold to my buddy) and looked around for a wheel cover. The ones I had did nothing to excite me then I saw a stack of old 4 barrel round top air cleaners so I tried a few and decided that the solid one worked best. I balanced the tyre, tried some different lighting, took a few dozen pics and I reckon this one is the pick of the bunch.



I stood back, admired my work and saw it was good. Looks like fate is pulling me back behind 1965 and I've got to say, I like what I'm feeling. The 425 Nailhead was available in 1964 as was the Edelbrock B262 (blower's out - maybe another day in another car), I'll find a mag style that I like (I'm leaning towards Crag SS or wheel and caps (maybe even air cleaner wheel caps!).

I'm having a lot of fun. I did a lot of work by myself and really enjoyed trying to figure out how to do things... especially raising and lowering the body! That was a challenge.

Next step is to go looking for some cool material to make spreader bars out of. Anyone got any cool old headlight shocker stands? Got to be old and cool. Also, if you have any suggestions or tips for cool spreader bars I'm all ears. When did Moon tanks start appearing? I'm also a nerf bar fan so I'm looking to create something unique but "correct".

 

Just bought these carb scoops from the "early sixties" can someone confirm that they are "right" for an early 60s car? There are "Nicson Early 1960s 4bbl Cast Alum. Carb Scoops". I like 'em!







I'm toying with the idea of building a car that I could have built in 64 (the year I was born. If I can decide on the wheels and can find a correct set of carbs for my B262, I'm nearly ready to commit (or be committed).

Looking for some headlight stands to get those commercials on.

 

Those cleaners get the thumbs up. Do a search for Moon tanks. Some say they're an overused "accessory" but they can be right if the application is right, like a race car.

 

I think I'll give it a miss then. Not going for a racey late 60s style any more. I'm going to find as many 1964 mags as possible and see what was available back then to build from and the styles. I just got my Alliance tags and they won't go on a car that doesn't "sing the gospel".

 

New (old) grille arrived today. Been hanging on a wall since the 60s apparently. Good enough to use as is.



Stellings and Hellings air cleaner (for the wall while I use dual quads on the Nailhead but ready for duty on a single 4. I don't think it's a repro but there are no markings on there to confirm - looks old. I also like cool locking gas caps (if you have one for sale let me know).

 

Son of a bitch! Those air cleaners are cool as shit, watch out for other Nicson stuff, they make some nice 60's styled gear.

 

I agree, I've been able to locate a third...just in case.

 

Coming along. Parts are arriving and I'm putting in the elbow grease. Could stand to lose a few pounds anyway. Great to see the metal shining through.

 

Should I be protecting the metal somehow? It's been naked for a few weeks and will be for a few more while I rub a dub dub and last night I washed it (the exposed metal) down with thinners but no surface rust seems to be appearing yet. I was talking to another 5 window owner who says he's left his metal exposed for years and no rust - though he does cover with sheets and blankets. We are in spring here so the weather is warm most of the time and the car is well protected in a garage that doesn't leak but it does get cold at night.

 

New Wheels and tyres arrived today!

 

Dual quad nail head Buick with stock chromed air cleaner would be hot. In the late sixties that Buick could have had a Muncie four speed behind it too.

In '65 the doctor that lived just down the hill two houses road raced a Morgan roadster, his just purchased new tow car of choice, a '65 Buick A body wagon (NOT the long wheelbase one with the Vista Cruiser roof) with a four speed!

Easy to picture a mid to late 60's hot rod with a 401 or 425 dual quad Buick and Muncie four speed.

 

Thanks for that twofo'.

I'm liking the idea of a Muncie but Russ has better ideas. He suggested to use the torque of the 425 I use an older truck box with an overdrive. I'd be interested to compare gear ratios. I want acceleration and don't mind wasting some of the (copious) torque to have fun.

 

Great looking car annd forgive for me not having read it all but you have consulted the appropiate people about all the rego requirements???? You probably have, just seen a few threads on other sites about hassles in SA. Keep up the good work, in a sea of glass its nice to see a steel coupe down here.

 

Hi Pete. Thanks. I'm having a ball! I've been down the rego road many times. I'm good with Doug Potts who is one of their recognised engineers. If Potsy says it's ok, it's ok. I (like all of us down here) wish we didn't have to run guards but we do so I'm guessing a bobbed set (check out Hemi32) at the back and cycle guards for the front.

I have the chassis set up 4 inches off the ground at the front of the rails and raised the back so it matches the rear tyres. My challenge will be to build it so the car sits just like it is now when it's built. No easy task because the authorities around here don't like C-ing the chassis. If I can get over that hurdle...I'll move on to the next one I guess.

 

As long as it's dry enough that your not getting even any surface rust nothing to worry about. That said be sure to check the lower edges where any moisture would collect first.

 

nice work

 

Bill ... Looking good ... keep the updates coming!

 

Thanks Todd, Claymore and Brady'.

A funny thing happened yesterday when I was stripping the door. I discovered a not only much faster method of removing the paint but also a safer method (for the metal - not me).

Previously:
1) Apply Organic Paint Stripper (a bit weaker but it still burns the skin so watch it!)
2) Scrape off most paint using various scrapers
3) Buff the surface with scourer wheel.

The main problem with this is the dust it creates and the wheels shine over so they generate a lot more heat per section of paint removal than they do when they are fresh. I could physically feel the warmth coming off a panel one time so I was paranoid about it and darted around all over the place doing small sections at a time. This worked ok (as you can see from the images above).

It takes a long time to clean all remaining stubborn bits of primer and paint using this method but it was great exercise and it got me out there and working on the Deuce so I kept buffing away with my mask on, sweaty safety glasses and a general feeling of "am I doing this right?"

New - Better -method:
1) Lightly scour the shiny paint surface with the scourer wheel first. Just enough to dull the surface, no metal should (or needs) to show through and this step allows for better penetration of the stripper. Paint seems to almost fall off or come off in big sheets.

2) Apply organic paint stripper and allow to sit for a few minutes until paint starts to lift.

3) Use scrapers to gently remove all paint that comes off easily (or falls off). This leaves a surface mostly of some parts of metal as the scraper took paint off almost to the metal (be careful not to scratch the body too much while scraping off paint. In fact scraping conjures up the wrong image. Think of it as moving or lifting the paint off gently.

4) Once most of the paint is removed get a green scourer pad and sponge (kitchen style) and thinners and start rubbing the paint off with the scourer dipped (or soaking in) thinners. No need to try to wipe the panel clean at this stage just rub on the paint or primer left gently and consistently until the paint comes off. It takes just a little more effort than washing the dishes. Think of a persistent paint section as a baked on bits after a Sunday roast and you get the idea. All the paint came off but the thinners mixed with the primer to create it's own "paint" which then covered the panel. This simply wiped off with a rag dampened in thinners. Not to mention that method 2 is also about 10 times quicker!

I should also add that I was wearing gloves )of sort) which naturally become saturated in thinners. This is a health hazard and if you can protect your skin somehow (double gloves with a rubber glove inside a leather glove?) that would be best but being soaked the gloves actually made a great rubbing tool to get into the corners.

The best thing is how easily the paint comes off from up against the reveal edges and corners using the "scourer dipped in thinners" method. I was scraping and agonising and trying to bury the scourer buff into the corners. Took ages, made dust and was ineffective. This method works much better as you can see below.

Check out the results...

Method 1 on the left...Method 2 on the right...


Do you think this is worth mentioning as a Tech article? I sure wish I knew it when I started and I looked for "strip paint"...for hours on here. The best discussion I found was on this thread but I think this new method is much better.