(I posted this on the Pilothouse site, but I am hoping to get more input) While cleaning and blasting my 16" Dodge truck (1953) rims this week end, I noticed that 3 out of 5 had suffered rust on the inside of the rim around the valve stem hole (rusted area does not to exceed 3" in length x 2" wide). Two are not so thin as to concern me, but the 3rd has at least two holes rotted through. I know that there used to be a couple of companies in San Antonio that would remove the "center" from your wheel and install it in a new rim - lots of old school hot-rodders got their wide rims that way. It's not like I am working on a Hellcat or 3.5 ton truck. However, I cant find anyone in Texas (or anywhere else other than maybe Stockton Wheel in California ) on the net that still does that type of work. It seems everyone just wants to repair/sell rice-rocket wheels or sell muscle car repro rims. I want to keep my 16" wheels and the original hubcaps. Does anyone know a company that does this type of repair or has anyone tried just welding a small steel panel inside the rim, over the affected area, then welding the valve stem hole shut and drilling a new valve stem hole? If you did the welding job, how difficult was it to balance the wheel with a mounted tire?
Depending on the tire it may be a bitch to balance anyway. I am running 7.50x16 mud and snows (bias) on my Willys and they had to be static balanced because they would not balance any other way. Lots of lead on a couple of them. That said, if it were mine and they needed repair I would cut the bad metal out and weld a new piece of metal in its place. The grind the welds inside and out. I doubt that they were very scientific about placement but I may eve try and get the valve stem hole back in the same place.
Ive welded a few tractor rims. they use a mixture of calcium & water in the rear tires for weight. and it rust them out. However for something that is going down the road at speed. only a idiot would use patched or marginal wheels. We used to knock out the rivets and reverse the centers back when I was a teen. Find some rims and do it yourself. You mount the rim on it car and stand a pop bottle along side it spin the wheel and you can tell if its true or crooked. one other thing those old 1953 rims could suffer from metal fatigue? I would simply find some newer 15 inch rims. our old pilot house dodge PK,s have 15 inch wheels.
I would have to vote for replacement wheels too. I would replace the outer rim, only if I couldn't find any good wheels.
Coat hanger clamped to the fender well at my house, but I am going to try the pop bottle trick I like it. Not sure if you are aware but while we don't always see eye to eye I watch your posts for new ideas to old problems. Here is a thought, some of the companies will sell you just the hoop if you ask them nice. You tell 'em what you got, they send you a hoop and then you use Old wolf's plan to get it welded firmly to the original center.
Bump up for the night folks. BTW, I saw all of the negative posts on Stockton Wheel prior to the previous owner's passing. What are folks opinion of it recently (last two or three years or so)? Thanks
Don't know what your bolt pattern is but I had a 1955 International R110 that came with 16inch 5 bolt x 4 1/2 bolt circle. Those might be easier to find than Dodge wheels. Jeeps will also fit that lug pattern if that helps you.
This used to be fairly common on wheels that were used with tubes, the area around the valve hole would get corroded. If that is all that is the matter you can braze a washer on the inside of the wheel. Braze works better than weld because if you know what you are doing you can run the bronze in like water and get a leak proof weld. Then you can run tubeless tires. If it is badly rusted all around the bead you better replace the wheel. Of course if you can find better rims that would be the best answer.
Just cut out the bad section and weld in a new piece and rill a new hole. They were welded originally, not heat treated. It wont fall apart once welded.
Cut out the bad spots, weld in the patches, grind the welds smooth, re-drill the valve stem hole, de-burr the hole, paint the wheel, and mount up the tire. Its a wheel for crying out loud, it only has to hold the tire in location, which the patch won't effect, and it needs to hold the remaining wheel together so the tire/tube can hold air. If you know how to weld, that shouldn't be a long reach either. Gene
I have done this on farm tractor wheels twice. I seldom have issues with my welds ( not claiming to be a expert either) Both times the rim cracked from the weld area. A Massey Ferguson 135 isn't a big tractor. and only has about an 18mph top speed. I doubt I would do the same thing on a 60mph vehicle.
Exactly. 60 year old rims are metal fatuged. welding changes the metal. I wouldn't run welded rims at highway speed. The dodge Pk has the same bolt pattern as a ford car. and later dodge cars.
I'm guessing you had sharp corners where you cut out the metal, like a square or rectangle, as opposed to a circle?
The Jalopy Journal
