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Technical Removing Tie Rod End

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dmdeaton, Jan 22, 2019.

  1. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 354

    dmdeaton
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What is the best way to remove a tie rod end on a new install without cutting up the rubber boot? I need to bend my steering arms to run my tie rod over the bones. I just installed a month ago and keep looking at it, hanging too low. I have pickle forks, but this would cut up the boot. loosen the nut and air hammer it from that end?
     
  2. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,285

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I use a big hammer by sticking the steering arm on the side of the taper hole. If that makes sense.
     
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  3. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 568

    lake_harley
    Member

    It doesn't always work, but I have had good luck removing the nut, turning it over and screwing it on so the flat (not the castellated end) is even with the end of the stud to protect the threads. While supporting the steering arm, a couple firm licks with a hammer generally get them loose.

    Also, with the nut loosened, a couple wacks on the side of the arm's tapered end while holding a heavy hammer against the other side will sometimes "wake" up the joint. That might be what saltflats was saying?

    Lynn
     
  4. Phil P
    Joined: Jan 1, 2018
    Posts: 128

    Phil P
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Take off the nut and turn it upside down and screw it on till its flush and try with a hammer but this doesn't always work. Sometimes your stuck with a new tie rod end. Phil
     
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  5. They make pullers for this, I’m not a fan of hitting cast iron with a hammer. Hitting the end is a good way to ensure you ruin threads even with the nut.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  6. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,061

    dirty old man
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    You're correct about the pickle fork ruining the boot. I've always had good luck using 2 hammers hold a BIG one against one side of the arm and strike the other side sharply with about a 1# hammer.















    g
     
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  7. chargin03
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 352

    chargin03
    Member

    Harbor Freight item 99849 sold as ball joint tool but works for tie rods also.
     
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  8. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 276

    jimgoetz
    Member

    I have a pickle fork for my air hammer and I don't know why but it only takes about 3 seconds and for some reason usually doesn't tear up the rubber.
     
  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,854

    alchemy
    Member

    Pretty sure you can buy a new rubber at the parts store.

    But, I have done as mentioned above: Place a maul on one side of the eye of the arm, then whack the other side of the eye with a big hammer. It did make the rod end pop out. Granted, these were not decades-old rusty rod ends.
     
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  10. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 354

    dmdeaton
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    New ends are cheap, almost worth snagging 2 before I start.
    Anyone know the part number for Ford 5/8 thread ends?
     
  11. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 1,917

    Fordors
    Member

    I removed ball joints on my 160,000 mile Tahoe DD by using two relatively heavy ball pein hammers. Loosen the tie rod end nut so it will still support the end and strike the sides on the spindle eye smartly with the hammers, the stud will pop loose. I’ve used this for years, always worked for me.
    Obviously, if you have paint it may be damaged, and if chrome then maybe use brass hammers.
     
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  12. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 742

    Happydaze
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  13. 4wd1936
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 755

    4wd1936
    Member
    from NY

    Ball joint puller works very well with a chunk of aluminum stock between the tie rod end and the puller bolt. Doesn't damage a thing.
     
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  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 42,714

    squirrel
    Member

    I learned the two-hammer method when I worked at the junkyard as a kid, it still works fine.
     
  15. B Ramsey
    Joined: Mar 29, 2009
    Posts: 613

    B Ramsey
    Member

    replacement boots as suggested above, dont last more than a couple months before rotting and disintegrating.
     
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  16. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 354

    dmdeaton
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am going to try this, but I ordered a puller off Amazon also.
    So just smack the sides of the steering arm, like you are trying to peen the sides in on the taper? I don't know if I am coordinated enough to do that. :)
     
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  17. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 2,689

    oldolds
    Member

    Hit the side of the steering arm like you are trying to close the hole up. It sometimes helps if you can put a little pressure on the rod end.
     
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  18. Modify as necessary to fit your specific tie rod end and steering arm. I don't ever use a pickle fork anymore, even when I don't care about destroying the boot.

    81ADa3e+vUL._SL1500_.jpg
     
  19. boring-hop-yard
    Joined: Feb 24, 2008
    Posts: 72

    boring-hop-yard
    Member

    Long ago I was taught the two hammer method but a little different than described earlier.
    I use two ballpeens one larger than the other. I strike the joint with both hammers at the same time. Don't kill it, just a firm smack, over and over until it lets lose.
     
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  20. nugget32
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 247

    nugget32

    Buy good quality replacement boots

    Sent from my Chromebook 11 Model 3180 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  21. Terrible80
    Joined: Oct 1, 2010
    Posts: 692

    Terrible80
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A little tension on the tierod and strike the side of the tapered eye with a hammer, don't need brute force, the vibration on the taper shakes it loose.











    a little tension on the
     
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  22. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,456

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    You don't swing both hammers at the same time, You use one hammer on the back side of the tapered end like a dolly when doing body work and sharply hit the opposite side with the other hammer.
    Don't do this with only one hammer...the second one absorbs or reflects the energy and focuses it just around the taper.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2019
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  23. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 2,097

    Boneyard51
    Member

    A long time ago I bought a “ pitman arm “ puller off the Mac truck. I’ve used it on tie rod ends with success. It’s a very heavy duty puller with two tie bolts through it to keep the puller arms from from slipping off. Has never failed me. Would go out in the shop and take a pic, but it’s cold and rainy here today!




    Bones
     
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  24. This is what I did when I was doing front ends for a living. Pull down on the tie rod, give it a whack and 99% of the time it came loose. Keep the nut a few threads on the tie rod for safety. I still have the #3 BFH I've used for years.
     
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  25. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 2,097

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Let me add a little to that method that will almost guarantee success with one strike. You need to support the arm holding the tie rod with a jack stand or something very solid, as close to the tie rod end as possible. Jack the car up and let it down on the arm so that it is solid, not all the weight of the car but some. Then hit sharply with a hammer no less the four pounds. Hammers come in sizes, just like wrenches, for a reason. Just my .02.
    Didn’t mean to hijack your post ,Bob.



    Bones
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2019
  26. Rich S.
    Joined: Jul 22, 2016
    Posts: 273

    Rich S.

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  27. Hollywood-East
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,003

    Hollywood-East
    Member

    Classic.... The first reply was all that was needed...BFH one blow, Like it's an X ol' lady... it'll be three page's by the weekend
     
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  28. Rich S.
    Joined: Jul 22, 2016
    Posts: 273

    Rich S.

    Yep!


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  29. VANDENPLAS
    Joined: Dec 14, 2009
    Posts: 1,723

    VANDENPLAS
    Member

  30. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    216C5EE3-4388-4F6F-9033-16965A81FC2B.jpeg Easy and no damaged parts
     
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