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Removing rust!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BLUDICE, May 27, 2011.

  1. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,476

    BLUDICE
    Member

    I need a little advise here. I bought these really cool hub caps (old style) at a swap meet last weekend to put on my shoebox. They may be after market stuff - don't know for sure, but they are stainless with a couple of pot metal parts on the them. Well the stainless has some really tuff surface rust on them that won't come off using a rust removing gel, steel wool, or rubbing compound. The lighter rust comes right off with the steel wool. Sorry I don't have a camera to show you the caps. I have read something in Rod & Custom about using a battery and other stuff in a tank or what ever. Please help - thanks
     
  2. borntowrench
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 28

    borntowrench
    Member

    Stainless steel doesn't rust. Try the search function, there are many rust threads full of info for ya.
     
  3. Mudslinger
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,964

    Mudslinger
    Member

    Low grade stainless will rust. The aftermarket caps are made from a low grade mix and the steel mixed in the stainless type is whats rusting.
    It just depends on the grade used and most re-pop crap is that. The only thing that will fix them probably is sandblasting and having them chromed.
     
  4. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,460

    CharlieLed
    Member


  5. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,869

    chaddilac
    Member

    The key ingredient in Stainless is Chromium, 18% is usually the high grade stainless, chinese stuff is much less. The chromium only slows down the rusting process, it doesn't eliminate it!

    I'd take em down and get em chromed! that'd be the best option!!
     
  6. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,476

    BLUDICE
    Member

    I might just try the electrolysis thing - which would be quicker electrolysis or vinegar
     
  7. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    ask me about vinegar...:)
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,476

    BLUDICE
    Member

    yea, I read your thread on the vinegar, but in the long run was you OK with it??
     
  9. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    yep, but the wheel flash-rusted 30 minutes after I pulled it out of the soup. Gonna hafta redip it and primer it immediately after rinsing.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  10. shinysideup
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,627

    shinysideup
    BANNED
    from ruskin, fl

    Better yet use "metal ready".
     
  11. stainless steel is non-magnetic.
     
  12. mr.chevrolet
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 7,458

    mr.chevrolet
    Member

    300 series SS is non-magnetic, 400 series is magnetic
     
  13. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

    Nope
    The ferritic and martensitic stainless grades ('400' series) are generally free from austenite, have high permeabilities and so will attract a magnet. They are classed as ferromagnetic. These steels can be magnetised in an electric field and so can be used for electric solenoid cores, where good corrosion resistance is required. An example of this type of steel is the "soft" ferritic 430 (1.4016). :D
     

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