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Hot Rods Removing floor in a 39 Deluxe coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flatford39, May 15, 2021.

  1. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    How do you remove the entire floor in a 39 Deluxe Coupe. I have a complete donor floor that I would like to replace it with.
     
  2. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 865

    patterg2003

    This is a link to replacing a coupe floor as Part 1 of a 3 part on modifying a 40 Ford coupe.
    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/sectioning-a-1940-ford-coupe-part-1/
    Someone on the HAMB took the floor out of a 4 door and transplanted it into a coupe. It was in the last year but I tried every combination of a search with no luck. Perhaps someone or the originator of that threat may give you a connection to that thread. The floors are the same in 39 & 40.
     
    moparboy440 likes this.
  3. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,368

    mickeyc
    Member

    I did that same job on my 40 coupe. On retrospect I would have been
    better off spending time with a power buffer or sending it out for a light sandblasting. The few really rusty spots could have been changed out much
    easier and cheaper than a full floor replacement. I just urge you to be sure
    you really need to achieve a full floor change out. Now regarding the removal
    of the donor floor system. If your not concerned about keeping the donor
    body in any kind of shape for reuse I dont think bracing the body would be
    necessary. You could leave the floor to chassis bolts in place rig a lift system
    to the donor coupe. Then start looking for the many spot welds in various places. Such as the bottom of the wheel wells which have a series of spot
    welds that hold the floor to the wells. Also at the rear under the trunk
    pan there are many that hold the rear body section to the tool tray and
    such. Again a good buffing with a wire wheel should reveal the various
    spot welds that will need to be drilled out. Also where the quarter panels
    from the B Pillars to the wheel well tie in to floor bracing that runs the entire length of the body from the center of the trunk area to near the fire wall. By
    starting at the rear and care fully working your way forward with a bit
    of lift pressure on your lift system you should begin to see the body rise
    a bit as the spot weld are drilled out. the be pillar is welded to the floor
    as well as having a body bolt pass through it. If the donor body is just
    junk you could cut it away from the top and work your way down. Be aware
    that after a spot weld is drilled out a bit of a stub remains so it may need a bit of prying and with a screw driver or such a tool to let the body lift away. It
    is not really that difficult of a job to accomplish needing close attention to
    be sure all spot weld are removed. If you are methodical and take your time
    you should be able remove the body leaving the floor intact and bolted to the chassis if it is indeed sitting on a chassis. After the several floor to chassis
    bolts are removed you will have an entire floor system ready for a couple of
    fellows to pick up and carry away. By removing the donor floor first you
    will be much better informed on the removal of the floor you are wanting
    to replace. When you begin to remove the floor in the body you are repairing
    itis a whole another situation. I braced my 40 coupe body from the A pillar
    to the B pillar and also from the left to the right at the B pillar. I also
    braced the body from one side to the other near the trunk springs. I was working alone so in order to get the larger floor sections in place I built
    two hinges at the very rear of the body with some one inch pipe and 3/4
    round bar connected to the rearmost chassis crosspiece. This enabled me
    to lift the body from the firewall with a cherry picker type motor hoist
    much like a funny car body. Of course the front sheet metal and motor
    were removed at the time. With the body raised I was able to set the floor
    pieces in and out of the body and on the chassis as needed by myself. I
    did leave the doors on and latched to help maintain alignment. With proper
    bracing the doors could be removed with out it causing any problems. I was able to raise and lower the body several times during this process. Also when
    the body was in the raised position I secured it with a steel temporary column to prevent it becoming a crushing hazard should the motor hoist fail.
    There are several 39 and 40 guys here on the hamb that will probably
    steer you better in accomplishing this task. I just was passing along what
    worked for me. I did get some pretty ribald comments from a few buddies that saw the body up on its hinges like one of John Forces racers. I must
    say I rather enjoyed the whole process and am pleased with the results.
    Oh by the way I used one of the BoB Drake/ Dennis carpenter reproduction
    floor systems and they are a really quality product. I hope this is somewhat
    helpful.
     
  4. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    extremely helpful.....thank you.
     

  5. PotvinV8
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 419

    PotvinV8
    Member

    Here's a link to a story I did that covers the floor replacement in my '40 coupe.

    https://clampdowncomp.com/projects/1940-ford-floor-repair/

    I used sheetmetal from United Pacific but perhaps it will show what the panels should look like and where/how they attach to the stock body and might be removed. Good luck!
     
  6. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Thank you for the link. You started with less than I have so you gave me incentive. I was about to take the doors off but I am glad you stopped me.
     
  7. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,368

    mickeyc
    Member

    That is an impressive task that was accomplished very well. Mine was
    not nearly as bad. No way would I with my limited skills have tackled
    that one. Well done Sir.
     
  8. PotvinV8
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 419

    PotvinV8
    Member

    Thanks guys! Hope it helps out!! The car was VERY rough, but that's what being a cheap-ass gets ya!
     
  9. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,467

    6sally6
    Member

    Like above said:..........Unless the floor is REALLY rotted out I would clean-cut-patch-grind smooth! EZ welding and fitting.(I would think) especially if you plan on keeping the car!
    6sally6
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    @IronTrap did a full floor replacement in his you tube channel I’ll see if I can find a link for
    You
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,217

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    flatford39 likes this.
  12. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Thank you....that was very helpful. I really liked his approach.
     
    Tim likes this.

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