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Radiator Flush Cemicals Question??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by k9racer, May 1, 2004.

  1. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,078


    The EPA baned the old radiator flush products.
    . Does any one have any home made mixtures or tell me any cemicals to use and if neutralizers are needed? Thank You...
  2. I was on a road trip two years ago when the radiator decided to plug itself.Stopped at my aunt's on the way home to pull it out and have the radiator flushed.They don't do it anymore there so I used a couple of gallons of Liquid Plum-R,taped the openings with duct tape,filled it up and rotated it every 15 minutes or so for a couple hours and then back-flushed it.Worked for nearly a year.This was a copper radiator;don't know what it would do to an aluminum one.
  3. FeO2
    Joined: Dec 23, 2002
    Posts: 384


    I use a solution of muratic acid.Get it at the hardware store.(it's used for cleaning bricks & masonary)Rinse Very well w/ water.
  4. FeO2
    Joined: Dec 23, 2002
    Posts: 384


    PS not recomended for aluminum..........
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  5. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,078


    Has anyone tried anything else?? Thank you..
  6. 29SX276
    Joined: Oct 19, 2003
    Posts: 470


    K-9 Racer; I think a 50/50 mixture of Muriatic acid and water should clean up a rad pretty nice.The acid eats up scale and crud like magic;used the same stuff in the water jackets of my flatty;got them spotless.Just wear the proper protection for your eyes and hands.To be on the safe side I'd do a test run on a scrap piece of copper/brass first.I'd hate to hear of holes in your rad in your next post!
  7. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,676


    red devil lye(the old school drain cleaner),read the directions on the can,as best i remember,it gives some mixing instructions for purposes other than drain cleaning.
    that said,keep in mind it will also remove corrosion from core plugs and cause them to weep(don't ask),also bypass your heater core prior to use.
    this shit is also good for removing anodizing from aluminum side trim and headlight bezels.
    use a piece of vinyl rain gutter to soak your side trim in.
    this stuff will make metal miraculosly disappear!
    monitor it closely whilst using,on cooling systems or otherwise.
  8. CLR. Calcium,lime,rust
    the stuff used for household applications.
    Run it for a while and flush the shit out of it.
  9. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,254


    Black pepper, no shit.
  10. Black pepper was used as on the road way to plug radiator leaks. The pepper swells up and flows to the opening when getting wet. Not for chemical cleaning.
  11. The old heavy duty radiator flush kits were oxalic acid.

    Any acid will clean the oxide build-up. Muriatic is swimming pool acid, which is actually diluted hydrochloric acid. A 33-50% mixture will work good and should not cause any real metal removal. Flush well, even neutralize with baking soda is a good idea.

    C-L-R is (I think) phosphoric acid, a little easier on you and the metal than hydrochloric. Maybe use muriatic first for bulk cleaning if real clogged up and then C-L-R for final. Phosphoric is nice as it leaves a protective phosphate coating on iron.

    BTW, the new long-life coolants are actually acidic. They have extra H+ ions (that is what makes anything to be acidic) and there job is to combine with any oxygen molecules and form water, rather than iron oxide or aluminum oxide.

    Traditional coolants have corrosion inhibitors in them and those wear out over time, that is why you are recommended to change the coolant at two years, not because it loses it's anti-freezing or anti-boiling properties, but because it loses it's anti-corrosion abilities.

    Long winded answer to your question with extra info.
  12. Unkept
    Joined: Jun 22, 2008
    Posts: 1


    You can still get oxalic acid: stuff works great for rust, just do a search. Just go down to your local hardward store and buy some wood bleach (basically it's just powdered oxalic acid), run through your system and then neutralize with Baking Soda.
  13. Oxalic acid (GM Heavy Duty Radiator Flush...2 part). Available at any GM dealer Svc Department. Works beautifully...
  14. Paul2748
    Joined: Jan 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,857


    White vinegar - fill the cooling systems, put on a bout twenty or thirty miles and then drain. Then flush two or three times.
  15. guitar man
    Joined: Sep 13, 2010
    Posts: 210

    guitar man
    from Tulsa OK

    I remember my grandad using vinegar on his '63 galaxie. He poured a couple gallons in, cranked it up and let it run for about a half hour then drained and flushed it out real good with water. Seemed to work pretty good because the temp went back down to normal .
  16. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,017


    I tried to get some from the local Chevy dealer a couple of years ago but they told me it was discontinued. I ended up getting some wood bleach (same stuff) from a local mom & pop hardware store.............the stuff works great.
  17. vanteleauto
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 7

    from Taylor, MI

    From 2006 to 2009 GM made a one part flush, part # 88861344

    Have you used it and did it work like the old two part, or would you recommend reverting to using the wood bleach? If you recommend the wood bleach, would you use the whole container for the job?

  18. HOTFR8
    Joined: Nov 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,809


  19. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,263


    What about using a BG or Wynns type flush? I know usually you have to get them at the dealer but I know we sell the Wynn kits over the counter too. I don't know how good they'll work on an older radiator, shit I don't think they work any better than just using a hose and flushing back and foward.
  20. vanteleauto
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 7

    from Taylor, MI

    Ended up using the wood bleach!! Worked amazingly, but did not use all 12oz's of it in the 4 gallon system. Used 9oz's to four gallons, ph was two I believe. It took out all the old antifreeze but I don't think it cut down the engine oil in the system.
  21. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    from lodi ca

    Cascade dish washer powder, mix with hot water and pour in drive for about 20 minutes til circulated , will clean rust, oil and minor other crap, been using on Diesel tractors and my cars for 30 or so yrs, the hotter you get it the better it works, it especially is great for OIL in water, LOOK WHAT IT DOES FOR DISHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  22. Ordinary Baking Soda works well.
  23. vanteleauto
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 7

    from Taylor, MI

    That stuff does work amazing however it sort of works too good. Ever notice your stainless utensils sometimes rust After the dishwasher cycle is done. That oxidation is happening during the wash, so if you were attempting to clean out rust from the system, unfortunately you are exasperating the problem while you use the cascade dish soap. We did once before and the system we used it on in just one year 6000miles filled with prestone green 50/50 ended showing up cloudy rusty / green so I don't know...I know I flushed it out till the system ran clear after using it.

  24. Michael Cavette
    Joined: Aug 17, 2016
    Posts: 1

    Michael Cavette

    On this same website I found an old timers method which will not harm the components and can be used on all metals, including aluminum.
    Remove Thermostat and replace spout.
    Use sufamic (also spelled sulphamic) acid, found as HDX Shower, Tub & Tile Cleaner. Note: Do NOT confuse it with other acids, sulfamic acid is a metal cleaner! Run the sulfamic acid 1-3 hours at high idle, then flush your system.
    Then I run oxalic acid, found as Cabot Wood Brightener. Also run engine 1-3 hours, then flush system.
    For the acid neutralizer after running each of the acids for 1-3 hours, use Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda. Washing Soda (also known as Soda Ash). Flush system to remove soda.
    Note: Do not confuse with A&H Baking Soda, because they are different.
    Washing Soda CAN BE MADE from Baking Soda, by using a large 9"x 13" glass or metal pan, spreading the baking soda at about 1/2" on the pan and cooking for an hour, stirring, then cooking for about another hour. This will remove the carbon dioxide from the baking soda and make it into Washing Soda.
    Pre-Mix 16 ounces of each ingredient (Sulfamic Acid, Oxalic Acid and Washing Soda) for EACH SEPARATE TREATMENT into 2 gallons of water to allow for dissolving, then pour into your engine's radiator and top off with water.
    Use gloves and eye protection when mixing and pouring the acids, because although these are light acids, you will be working with a concentrated form.
    Use chemicals in this order:
    1) Sulfamic Acid (16 Oz to 2 gal water), then flush system with tap water,
    2) Oxalic Acid (16 Oz to 2 gal water) then flush system with tap water,
    3) Washing Soda (16 Oz to 2 gal water) to neutralize, then flush system with tap water.
    Note: Mix your anti-freeze 50/50 with distilled water and completely fill your cooling system.
    The use of distilled water will prevent any added minerals (tap water usually has metals & possibly salts in it).
    The distilled water & anti-freeze with a clean cooling system should last quite some time without any buildup and keep your anti-freeze good for a year or better.
    This method will work on old or new engines, whether they have aluminum or not.

  25. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,230

    jimmy six

    Does all these ideas need a hot engine or can you do it cold by using a non engine driven water pump? Thanks

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