I have removed my cab roof. I wanted to tighten up the seam across the back of the cab and had some places that metal needed to be replaced. I cleaned the seams with a grinder and wire wheel. All the loos stuff is gone and it is all pretty shiny. There are some darker areas and some pits still left, the only way to get them will be to have it sandblasted. I would like to put it together and have the whole cab blasted at once, but I am afraid these areas will cause problems down the road. What do you all think? I also want to point out that all seams will be welded closed, I want to remove the seam from the rear of the cab and the I am shaving the drip rails. Here are a few pics: I do have some phosphate rust converter that I could spray it down with prior to welding the seams, just not sure if that would be a permanent fix or not.
clean everything, especially areas that will be hard to access when the roof is back on. get some weldable primer, soak down the joints, then weld the top on.
Do the welding repair etc. Flood the welded and closed in areas with SEM Rust Seal or similar that doesn't have to be rinsed. Don't ever sand blast sheet metal. Use spray can paint remover to remove the paint. No grinding on the sheet metal except to level weld bead.
I usually remove everything I think I'm going to remove , strip the paint, then have it blasted. I also have a blaster and do a lot of clean up during the restoration. It sucks, and its a nasty lob , but I like going this far. If I'm going to do this work, I want to work with clean metal. I use SEM in seams I don't take apart. How far you go is up to you. A lot of guys like por 15 and similar products. Nothing wrong with these or other rust converter products on the inner structure either. Personally I like all rust removed as much as possible. But I tend to go too far.........
I don't like the idea of putting time and money in a paint job and having blisters in a few years. That being said, I guess my main question is how clean is clean. Blasting or dipping is the only sure way to get it all.......... unless the converters really work, how long do they work for? Anyone had bad rust and use rust converter on a panel or seam on a vehicle that has set awhile? Like I said even hitting them with grinder and wire wheel there are still black areas, will those convert and seal up, or will they come back?
Weld thru primer, than make your repairs, sand blast (if thats how you feel like doing it). I like a wire wheel and some paint stripper unless its really built up than I would blast it. After sand blasted, sand the entire surface with 80/180 grit sand paper till its smooth, no sandblasting pits, than use some POR-15, and tadaa!!! A repair that will last a very long time...
I think your going too far to leave rust behind. "Converted" or not. Nor will you be happy if you do. Get a small blaster. Clean is clean. Less is "unclean"!
"overkill" will always pop up on this type of thread---remove all the rust you can---primer is not a moisture barrier unless it is epoxy(catalyst) ---rust converter works ---your own good common sense will raise your comfort level considerably ---good luck
Just always remember... NEVER PRIMER OVER BLASTED METAL... The tiny pours will cause alot of problems. quickly sand with 80/180 sand paper BEFORE priming....
My first choice would be to blast, it's faster, and easier. You can also remove all traces of rust with some products. Sanding and wire brushing does not do this. Not rust converters, though they do work to a degree. Rust Dissolver, Metal Prep (Dupont 5717 S), Rust Evaporator, Picklex, all will dissolve the rust deep in the pores of the metal. The problem is some of these need to be neutralized, or they continue to eat at the steel. I use Picklex, because it doesn't. But it does take time and scrubbing to get it to remove all rust. Even if it seeps into the seams it protects rather than deeps eating away. In a last chance effort, POR 15 can be used to seal up inaccessible areas, and seams. While it doesn't remove rust, it seals it up so it cannot spread. Ain't no easy way to do this right!
Hey, " Converted '' rust becomes '' Perverted '' rust with time...............when in doubt, cut it out! I wish the inner structure of my F-100 looked as good as your's does. Since you're offin the seam and drip rails, why not just cut away the suspected area, and hammerweld the turret top panel to the panel above the rear light? This will leave no area for water to collect, and make it very easy to dress those welded areas.
I considered removing but I am pretty sure it is structural and helps to keep th tops of the door pillars spread at the right width. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Still debating the chop.......... The doors were chopped by the p/o, and done poorly I might add. They are chopped 2" and sitting in the cab I am looking at the top rail of the door. Since I tipped the lid down, I am really liking it. I didn't think an inch across the front would make that big of a difference, but man did it ever.......
If you got some paper towels laid down on the areas that you are worried about and kept them soaked with vinegar it will remove the rust. Keep them wet and covered with Saran Wrap or similar. You may have to work some of the stubborn pits with a small drill bit or carbide burr in a dremel tool. It's tedious work but the vinegar really breaks it up for you and it does get rid of the rust. You'll need to wash it to neutralize the acid, water and baking soda should do it.
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