Projects Quain Stott Willys build

We both know J Ed is capable and has been building frames his entire adult life. HRP

 

thanks I just bought some super stocks and car crafts and hot rods and popular hot roddings this week

 

Sorry to have to post this but the race at Knoxville has been cancelled this Saturday. There is a 60 to 70% chance of rain Friday Saturday and Sunday. Most all of us have at least a 3 1/2 hour drive and others 6 hours. Some fan's were coming from several hours also. We was really looking forward to showing Knoxville what a true Gasser race was like but it won't happen this week end. We plan to reschedule but don't have a date yet.

 

KEEP US POSTED WE ARE LOOKING FOWARD TO IT.

 

Just found this and it is awesome!!!!

 

Is there going to be more updates on the build of this car? Would love to read some more about it

 

Hi Quain,
Any chance you can elaborate on this ? C/G makes sense sort of, but how does the height play into this?

 

Quain, is there any idea on a date to make up this past weekend in Knoxville?

 

May be September 27th but not sure yet.

 

This is hard for me to explain with out drawing a pic and I don't know how to do that on here, but I'll try to explain it in my red neck way. You will have to imagine a big box setting on the floor and you walked up to the box and punched it hard in the dead center. That would be the exact C/G, the box would slide straight forward with no rocking motion. Now punch the box at the top, the box would rock over forward that's above C/G. Now kick it at the bottom the box will rock back towards you at the top that's bellow C/G. The mounting point of the ladder bar is what pushes the car if it has floaters or coil springs witch most all do now days. The front mounting point of the ladder bar is punching the box. So if you had it at the exact C/G height the first move the car would make would be straight forward with no weight transfer. If it was above the C/G the nose would fall and there would be negative weight transfer. Now put the mounting point as close to the ground as possible way below the C/G and you will have front end lift to the point it would brake the wheelie bars. So what I try to do is find a sweet spot to where the car just touches the wheelie bar very softly so not to unload the rear tires. There is math for this but most don't know when doing a new build where the C/G height is going to be. That's why 4 links ( a big no no for a Gasser) became so popular in the early 70s. With a 4 link the push point is where an imaginary line is drawn through both bars until they intersect, (same as the front mounting point of a ladder bar) the intersect point is where it pushes from. Now you can just move the top or bottom bar up or down (with out changing the pinion angle) to get the sweet spot. If you looked at the intersect point on my pro mod car it is only about 6" off the ground. Look at the intersect on my Gasser and it's around 10" off the ground. That's because the C/G is way higher on the Gasser. in other words the box is taller. Another big factor is where the C/G is front to back. you start getting into correct length bars but we won't get into that today. Hope this helps.

 

Amazing build, and thanks for the C/G height explanation! Great analogy!

 

Guess I'm a red neck because it makes perfect sense to me now. Thanks a lot!

 

Isn't that the same weekend as the Gear jam drags?

 

You can find the more scientific explanations in chassis books but it's telling you the same thing in the end, my red neck version is just less confusing.

 

I'm not sure about that, if it is they are 2 hours away so we won't hurt each other. And it's a total different deal than ours.

 

COOL

 

Great thread! My dad and built a '54 Olds Rocket 88 gasser. Olds powered with an automatic. After reading this thread and seeing the videos, we will be switching to a Jerico this winter. I was wondering what to use for a clutch set up and flywheel? Should we use an aluminum or steel flywheel?
I wish we lived closer to you. Would love to be a part of your show.

 

Russman glad to hear y'all are coming over to the dark side with the stick shifted cars, we are a dying bread.When you get ready for a trans let me know we have been using Hightower with no problems. I sold my my Jerico a while back and got a Hightower and that thing is sweet. One of our guys has had one for 5 years with no problems. Plus it's $1000 cheaper. On the clutch we all use Ram, they have 2 different setups that they special build just for us. One for a heavy high powered car and another for the lighter lower powered cars. For 5 years now with no problems. Oh yea we all use Aluminum flywheels.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. When the time comes, I will get in touch with you. Good luck with the rest of the year and looking forward to more updates on this thread.

 

Is your clutch a slipper like the Mcleod or a Ram special design?

 

It's a ram and adjustable. Ram did my slipper clutches for my pro mod for 19 years. They have it mastered. The clutch they have just for the Gassers is real simple we slip it very little. We have to use a lot of base and very little counter weight because our rules say you have to use the clutch on the shift. With a lot of counter weight like you would have to use if it was to slip at low rpms the clutch would be to hard to push on high rpm shifts.

 

I have always used the Ram long style and probably need one that slips some but didn't want to switch to Mcleod and didnt know that Ram made one

 

I run a Ram Powergrip 900 HD disc and pressure plate in my car,which is considerably less hp,but it has been completely reliable and trouble free.

I'm stepping up the hp this year,so we will see how it works out,but I really have more concerns about the transmission than the clutch.

For a pretty serious clutch,it engages smoothly,doesn't do any funky chattering,and has reasonable pedal pressure.

I love it.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Danny the 2 styles that ram has set up for us is based on the old long style pressure plate and hat. They just changed the fingers for counter weight (if a low RPM engine) and made the base springs adjustable. The key to the lock is to have a clutch disk that won't give up with minor slip. I have had them change one like yours over as long as it's in good enough shape to still certify.

 

At the end of every year I send mine back to Ram for a redo so I will ask them for a change this year, should make it better on the line and easier on parts

 

Make sure to tell them you talked to me and they will fix it like ours. Talk to pat or mike.

 

YOU STILL LOOKING AT THE 27TH FOR THE KNOXVILLE RACE?

 

I'm in another mess trying to get a date where everybody can come. Some of our cars can't come on the 27th, should know something soon. Rain outs are hard to deal with.

 

I heard that we are still planning on coming when you reschedule. I have been building up my inventory of old magazines to bring and sell.

 

Found this video of Quain making a "Good save" when a bouncing wheelie get things messed up.