I'm running my tie-rod in front of my axle, so in order to make the "Ackerman" angle closer to being correct I'll have to bend my steering arms out, or buy/fabricate different ones. For those not versed on the Ackerman deal, here's a link which explains it very well. http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/chassis/ackerman/Ackerman.asp Thanks to our fellow HAMBers, I now understand the problem with running your tie rod up front without addressing ole Mr. Ackerman's geometry lesson. My questions are: 1.) Are there any tricks to bending Superbell steering arms? I'm pretty sure they're forged, and not cast, right? 2.) Anybody have a good source for aftermarket streering arms to fit '37-'41 style Superbell spindles that are already bent to the correct position? As always, thanks guys.
I know. Trying to figure out if Superbells are forged or cast. If they are forged, are there any tricks to bending them?
pete & jakes/superbell steering arms are forged. make sure you allow to cool naturally...do not dunk in water
As a rule forged steel will have a wide parting line usually cut off or ground off. Cast steel will have a narrow parting line that may be ground down.
To tell the difference, look at the parting line. If a thin 1/16 inch line it is a casting. If the parting line is thicker like 1/4 to 3/8 inch it is a forging. You can also do the hammer test. A forging will ring more than a casting when sturck with a hammer and hanging from one end. Now assuming you have a forging, it can be heated and bent, just make it nice red hot and then slow cool in still air, no forced fan or any coolant. If you want peace of mind have it magnafluxed after bending to make sure no cracks were opened up.
Sounds simple enough, thanks a lot! Anybody have a source for arms already bent out for correct Ackerman?
Theory is to heat the inside of the bend. It will have a tendency to compress the material rather than stretching it. Wrap it in a welding blanket or sand to let it cool as slowly as possible. Rick
When bending steering arms I was taught that you heat them up to a DULL RED using a rosebud. Bend carefully and slowly. Then allow to cool in dead still air. Afterwards get them magnafluxed. YMMV
Arthur C Clarke said it all...It's non destructive Crack testing using magnetic current and coloured particles to detect flaws in metals.i prefer X ray my self. http://www.magnaflux.com/country.htm
Any engine shop will be able to magnaflax the steering arms for you.... It only takes a minute, not expensive and actually very simple on steering arms.......