Putting a Chrysler Industrial Hemi in a 52 Dodge truck

Wow...that's news to me. I already bought a rebuilt sock pump, but I might need the space in front of the engine. Does the chevy pump buy me any extra space, or not really?

 

I've got four industrial 354's and they all have the car style block. They use a 392 oil pump and intermediate shaft but other than that, just like the car.

 

Nice project! VERY clean build!

 

Gonna be a nice project. We did one back in the sixties, remember we had to notch the frame for oil filter clearance. Had push buttons, so we mounted them on the left side of the dash using "metal lumber" pre punched angle iron brackets. Also in a high tech vein we cut the Chrysler driveshaft down on the front porch with a hacksaw. It all worked though. Surprising what you remember from so far back.

 

Maybe the 354s are car blocks, my 331 Ind isn't!

 

They are all Ind 56A like the one in this picture. This is the one that's in the digger now.

 

What can I use to reattach the ID Tag to the block? The engine shop took it off so it wouldn't get damaged while cleaning the block. I only have one of the little 'nails'..the rest broke when he was taking the tag off.

Do I just use some small finishing brads and tap them in with something like a thread sealer on the ends to hold them in place?

 

Hi, Dan. Looks good. I'm sure Doctor Bo did a good job. You need to get some little drive in rivets to attach the tag. They have a spiral flute to them. You should be able to get them at Automotive Fasteners. Take the tag with you and tell them what you're trying to do.

 

Or drill and tap the block for a small machine screw...

I'm running a 392 front cover and water pump on my 354 (because of clearance issues with the blower)... the Chevy WP won't give you any "length" advantage to speak of... and you'd have to cange the front cover to an aftermarket one to use it... and change over to a short snout cam and SBM timing chain.

You'll have a neat truck when you are done...

 

You need to change that FRAM OIL FILTER

 

Why?

 

FRAM explode at the seams. They used to be illegal to use @ our motorcycle roadrace series. I've seen the results of someone using one. Oil all over the track.

 

Dan, here is one of several Fram threads:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295635&highlight=fram


I recommend (and sell) Wix. Napa Gold is also good.

Gary

 

Wow...thanks for the warning. I won't spin the engine until the filter is changed. I'll grab a wix replacement.

 

'55 & up car timing covers are the same & the LONG BBC pump fits over it. '55 was last year for the long snout cam, unless used on the ind after '55.

 

Could be... all my timing covers are the same afaik... I'll have to take a closer look at the cover from my '56 300... might be thinner.

 

Making some slow progress.

Got the front end off the truck.


I've started to disconnect everything. Short term goal is to get the engine out this weekend. Here's how it sits as of now.


Everything is taking longer to do than I expected. Took 4 hours total just to get 5 bolts out of each of the front fenders where it connects to the main body. The grinder with a cut-off wheel is becoming my friend. Some of them just wouldn't break loose.

I just took a look at my initial budget for this project (post #1). Shit...I blew that on the engine alone already and I don't even have all the other parts needed yet.

 

In Tex Smith's Mopar Hot rod Book they subbed 1 of these with an 80 or so Magnum clip.

 

Wow Dan, this is going to be one great ride. Can't wait for this baby to fire up! Keep up the good work and remember, its only money.(lol)

 

A little tip re a carb and an intake manifold to use.. One of the
best low-buck 'street' carb & intake set-ups you can use on a
354 is a stock *dual plane* cast-iron intake from a '57 or '58 392.
Add a 'Holley to small-base AFB' carb adapter and a 700 or 750
cfm 'universal replacement-type' vacuum secondary Holley 4-bbl
and you're good to go. The reason to look for a '57-'58 392 intake
is because they're a true dual plane type - which will give better
all round drivabilty, mileage and low and mid-range torque
compared to the earlier 331 and 354 stock 4-bbl intakes which
were a 'single plane' log style. And depending on the cam you
use, - which may or may not require a different number power
valve depending on how much idle vacuum you have - a standard
universal 'non-emissions-type' 750 Holley vacuum carb will be
pretty close 'as is', right out of the box, as far as jetting goes.

Mart3406
==============================================

 

I bought a stock 4 barrel intake already. I'm not sure what the part number is...I'll go check it out.

I was leaning toward an Edelbrock carb...I have a holley on my Camaro and don't really love it. I don't really have much carb experience though, so I haven't really decided for sure.

 

If you open up the bore holes the Edelbrock drops right on.

 

The bore holes have already been opened up. I bought the intake from Gary (73RR) from the HAMB. Great guy to deal with.

 

More progress tonight.

After 4 hours of work and thanks to the help of a great neighbor (and new best friend), I hit a milestone.



Got the engine out finally.


Someday, when the swap is complete, I'll try my hand at doing a rebuild on the old flathead just to have it freshened up.


I don't think I'd ever sell it off. I think the original engine should stay with the truck...even if it's stored on a home-built engine cradle.

 

Coming right along. Cant wait to see that truck at some local shows. I just realized that the upper shock mounts like the ones on your truck might work on one of my projects. Something for me to look for.

 

If you want to come by to take one off and make up a diagram, feel free to send me a PM. There's a guy at the pilothouse forum that has a few trucks he parts out. I can get you his email if you want it.

If you want to come by, I'll pick a night when I have some thing that I need help with, so don't wear nice clothes.

 

I might do that, dont think id have to take one off, just some measurements would do the trick i think. I'll pm you.

 

Thanks for the updates. Looking good.

 

Got the engine set into the engine bay just to see how things fit.

I think things are looking OK. I believe I have enough room to make this work without major surgery.

Some questions I have are:

The tape measure in this picture shows where the axle line is. Should the engine sit back further? I can really only go about another 1 1/2" or so before I hit the firewall. If I cut the firewall, I can still only go a bit further that because of the steering shaft.




With engine height, I can't really go much lower. Actually, in this picture it's a bit lower than it should be. The balancer hits the cross member. Right now, it's only about a 1/4" of clearance. I could cut some clearance in the cross member, but would rather not have to do that.



Look where I have the level sitting on top of the engine. You can see where the top of the engine meets the floorboard. I'm not sure on what transmission I'm going to use, but I think regardless of which one I go with, I'll have the room I need.




If I don't have it low enough in back, can I put the engine in at a slight slant? I would have enough room to do a 2-3 degree slant....I could always have a carb base machined so the carb would sit level.

I wonder if they make a smaller diameter balancer for this engine? I could gain a bit more clearance to lower it a bit. I'd have to section the radiator support - a big U shaped bracket - but that wouldn't be too hard.

Here's a front view:



Rock, thanks for stopping by to check things out.