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Putting a Chrysler Industrial Hemi in a 52 Dodge truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DanBabb, Mar 14, 2010.

  1. First post here. I'm located in Summerfield, NC (just north of Greensboro).

    I own a 52 Dodge B3B Pickup. It currently has a flat6 and I'm looking for more power (so I can use it to tow my 68 Camaro to track events).

    I found a motor locally. It's a 1956 Chrysler Industrial 354 Hemi. It was pulled out of an aircraft tug and was running well when the current owner pulled it out. Except for the intake & carb & water pump (seized), it's complete. It spins freely and looks good from what you can see of the inside.

    My current plan is for no rebuild. I'll get it running on an engine stand first to make sure it's good enough to drop in. If it runs, then I'd proceed to pull the front clip off my 52 B3B and begin the fun stuff.

    After searching online and doing some measurements, it looks like it will fit (with some mods to the radiator position).

    So, I'm trying to list everything I can think of budget wise.

    Here's my short list...please tell me what I'm missing and where you think my costs are out of whack.

    I know this won't be exact because you never stick to a budget...I just want to make sure I catch all the major stuff.


    Here's a picture of the truck I'm dropping this in.


    I've done searching here and I've seen posts with guys that have used these motors. If there are any pitfalls I need to be aware of...please let me know.
  2. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,205


    Water pump - Ebay - 100 bucks - swap meets even cheaper
    Manifold - Stocker?? 50 bucks
    Carb - swapmeet - 75 to 100 bucks - add another 40 for a kit off eaby

    I think you can beat the price on some of the bigger ticket items (like the disc brakes) but you're gonna have to work for it.

    Obviously if you are in a HURRY - you're gonna pay top buck, If you have some time you can search around and grab a few deals!!!

    I run a 392 in my old '47 Truck. Initially it had a factory starter - and was ok in of itself but the steering had to be modified and I didn't like that. So I ended up geting a modern gear reduction starter and put the steering back to origional. It was Cheap (100-125 bucks) on Ebay IIRC.

    For the discs I bought a kit off Speedway cause I was in a hurry at the time. A Full size Blazer backing (disc caliper mtg plate) makes for a much nicer conversion - I plan on adapting that to mine when I run across those parts cheap!

    BTW - mine tows quite nicely with the exception of backing it ina tight spot - the manula steering has got to go - but other than that - no complaints.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 14, 2010
  3. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,662

    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Looking forward to seeing this install. Still trying to figure out what motor I will put into my 48
  4. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,264


    Are there any issues with the crank flange being a problem on the Industrial hemi engines?

  5. I've got an IND56A (motly) in the coupe and the digger. I've not had any trouble with the flange. The JW Super Bell stuff in the digger needed massaging but that's not an uncommon thing with them from what I hear. Ask Hemirambler about his fun with them.
  6. Good question that I didn't think of. Here are pictures of the engine. Can I use this motor without having to replace the crank?


  7. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 4,698

    dirt t
    from Kingman,AZ
    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    many years ago (had brown hair and 25lbs lighter) I did this conversion using a 392 and torque flite . only problem was the starter/steering box.
  8. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,205


    Yeah BTW I run an Iron (pushbutton) torqueflite in my truck. They are admittedly an outdated trans. Rebuild parts are a tad expensive, but as compared to the conversions it can be cheaper. For instance a pushbutton trans can often be had for free. The rebuild kits are around 3 bills. So if you had an inkling to go ultracheapskate - it's an option. Now I'm not sayin' it's a better idea long term - just tossing out an example. Mine in my truck needs rebuilding right now - I contemplated changing over to a 727 - and maybe one day I will, but for now - I'm sticking with the "Iron Monster".

    Kerry has a good memory - the JW kit gave me fits. I had to change several things to get it to work properly. I can't speak for any of the other adapters as I have no first hand experience with them. If by chance you go the JW route - let me know - I'll go over my issues - maybe you can avoid them.

    The poster mentioning the steering box being tight - is exactly my issue - that NEW Nippondenso starter converted for a 392 is awesome - it is offset and MUCH smaller than a stock unit - so I highly reccomend it. They have lots of cranking uumph as well!!!

    Good deal on the Hemi - BTW!!! SWEET TRUCK TOO!!!
  9. Dzus
    Joined: Apr 3, 2006
    Posts: 321


    What trans was behind it in the tug?
  10. Yeah, with the JW Ultra Bell on the digger the Nippondenso starter, small as it was, was in the way of the frame. I cut some of the nose off, welded an additional plate for the mountand reclocked it so the motor is directly below the drive. Fits great and works fine now. I think Bob Walker at Hot Heads has a modified Nippondenso starter that works with stock old hemi transmission and flywheels.
  11. Tim Keith
    Joined: Jan 1, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Tim Keith

    That's a good looking Pilothouse. I found one of these with the
    Volare IFS under it. I don't know if it was done right but looks
    like a good fit. Tim
  12. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,335


    It's usually recommended that the Ind cam be replaced with one that was ground with automotive use in mind. If you were using a QEC adaptor & a 727 the studs in the crankflange would be replaced with bolts & a 426 hemi flexplate.
  13. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,335


    What's the tubing on the dist area of the block?:confused:
  14. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,660

    from Quincy, IL

    Oil pressure line for manual guage I think.................

  15. Nope, the oil pressure hole is in top right next to the hole for the distributor. The line in question goes to a non pressure area. Probably a return line for something like a governer.
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
  16. As far as that line in question, the previous owner said the aircraft tug did have a governor on that could be the ticket.

    I bought it tonight.

    Hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew?

    That's really a rhetorical questions...I'm sure I did, but no turning back now.

    Time to start collecting a few of the missing pieces (intake, carb, new water pump, transmission, adapter plates, starter, a lot of degreaser...the list goes on).

    I plan on collecting parts and getting it cleaned up. Get it running over the summer, then towards the fall/winter, get to work on trying to stuff it in.

    Chug-a-lug Doug (that's what my kids named it) is already saying 'ahhhhhh".
  17. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,585


    NO.... there's been a lot of info posted about that but every IND I've seen has the pass. car crank... all three of mine have pass. cranks...some marine engines will have a different crank...

    There's a wealth of info here if you search for Scooter's "Hemi-Tech" posts...
  18. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,335


    You have the standard under carb crossover, so any 55-58 or afterrmarket intake will work. I see someone plumbed a leak into the rear block off plate on the right of the pic, need a new one.
  19. He can put his temp sending unit there like the one in the pic. Mine's in the left head like that.
  20. I spent tonight cleaning it up a bit. Two hours in the garage and I only got the top half cleaned up a bit.



  21. 3/22 Update

    Been taking it apart and cleaning it as I go.

    Got the heads off and took them to a local shop to have them cleaned and inspected. They look better than I thought they would.

    Cylinders looked good. No rusty buildup and the walls look pretty good...still can see the crosshatch marks in them.

    QUESTION - there's a bit of a carbon ridge at the top (where the ring doesn't scrape). Can I use a little steel wool to clean that off or don't bother?

    Got the oil pan off and don't see anything scary (not that I really know what I'm looking for).

    I need to try to figure out the compression ratio (at least get close) and then I'll get a new cam and other stuff needed to swap the bump stick.

    I have a short list of items needed, but I'm making progress and think I could realistically have this running in a month.
  22. 3/26 update & questions

    Got the balancer and the front cover off.

    QUESTION - when I took the bolts off for the pulley, the balancer spins (I put it back to the right spot so I wouldn't lose the timing mark position). Is this a 2 piece balancer or a broken balancer?



    QUESTION: There's this round disk that was on the inside of the cover. It has a slot for the crank key...but the key that was in the balancer wouldn't be long enough to hold it in place. Do I need a longer key?



    QUESTION: Do I have the short snout cam?


    QUESTION: Do I need a new timing chain?


  23. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,205


    Looks like a 2 piece balancer to me. IIRC the bolt pattern only lets it go on 1 way.

    The disc is the oil slinger - the slot is just there to ease assembly.


    No, but I'm sure some will say yes. I run a stock chain on my digger. Tested to 142mph thus far.
  24. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,465


    WOW! it is amazingly clean inside.
    For what you are doing I'd be tempted to use the chain, however, a new one is only $30...
    All of your stock parts appear to be very scored.
    Do a valve job while the heads are off then you're good to go.

    As to compression, the valve relief looks to be similar in size to a pass car 354 so you may have pass car pistons = 9.0:1. Now, go easy on cam profile and you'll have a stump puller.

  25. Heads are already at the shop. Valves are already hardened and looked good. Guides were showing wear, so those are being replaced and they'll do the valve grind as part of that process.

    Need to decide on the cam so I can have the right springs installed in the heads...then they are ready to come home and start re-assembly.

    I guess for $30, it's cheap insurance to get a new chain. The old chain will look nice hanging up on the wall.
  26. Project Update

    Got the hemi back from the engine shop.
    Engine fully rebuilt
    Crank needed the mains welded and ground back to stock specs.
    New Cam & lifters
    Adjustable pushrods
    and a bunch of other stuff.




    I have the accessories, so I'll get those mounted up. Might as well store them on the engine and free up some shelf space.

    Then when it cools off outside, I'll start with the breakdown of my truck and get the engine in for a test fit. Once I see where things line up, I'll decide on the transmission.

    Big Thanks to Gary (73RR) for all the help through the process.
  27. very nice, always liked the industrial valve covers!
  28. Triggerman
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 578

    from NorCal

    Very, very nice lettering job on the valve covers. After you get the hemi in, you may have to change the truck's name to something more appropriate for a hemi powered truck.
  29. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,335


    You're lucky to have a car block, most Ind take the big 51-54 timing cover. The long BBChv W/P will fit over the cover you have.

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