Ok,what i have is a 57 392 hemi and i have a 64(i believe)smallblock 727 with a pushbutton assembly that has a park position in it.What i want to do is run the trans behind the hemi since it bolts directly to it the only one off part may be a converter.The motor will be warmed over and raced on occations.The unit should handle all i dish out but my concerns are the output shaft.the park pawl is located where the bearing support is on a later unit and i cant run a slip yoke with the early tailhousing.so converting to a later tailhousing and output shaft would eliminate the early park mechinism.has anyone run a early style trunion and slip shaft with some real power with success or is there another option with the pushbutton to allow me to run a late slip yoke.I would really like to run the pushbutton but if the driveshaft is the weak link a 4 speed may be in my future.If i keep the automatic,the wife maybe able to drive this one.(so she thinks)Thanks for any help or suggestions.
I am building my 52 Ford truck with a 1956 354 Chrysler and the cast iron torqueflite. This trans has no "park" and also uses the trunnion joint. I made my driveshaft using the original 56 trunnion. I feel that it should handle the power since these joints were used in the letter series cars that had in excess of 350 horsepower pushing around a 4500 pound car. My truck will weigh about 2100 pounds when done so with half the weight it should have a pretty light job compared to it's original application. These trunnion joints are also used in truck 4 wheel drive front axle driveshafts and these things take a pretty good beating. I feel confident using them. Al
That tranny has the same bolt pattern but the dowels are in a different location. Also the crank flange sticks out further on the 392 than the on the LA engine and I believe there is a difference in the size of the converter register. There are a couple outfits that make nice adapters. I recently picked up and older wil-cap peice here on HAMB. I also got hold of a slick setup from TR Waters. He's up in the northeast. Vermont I think. Both units came with the crank spacer, adapter & flex plate that allows you to run regular SB MOPAR stuff. The Waters kit is much nicer in my opinion and comes with all hardware and the tap to thread the crank flange.
A custom converter is not an issue.to have it built with a different register and a snout to match the trans is a easy fix.As far as the dowls i was not aware.Maybe stripper bolts instead of conventional hardware. just a thought it would be located in 6 points instead of 2.The motor will see excess of 450 hp and be in a A pickup on duce rails.I do have a habit of breaking my toys so driveline concerns are always in the back of my mind.
If you can have a converter built or build one the dowel issue is minor. You could probably index the bell to the block (even more accurately) with say four smaller dowels in another allowable area. Or like you say just use a couple of the normal mating holes to hold center with a machined sleeve of some type or a shank that keeps it located. Not up on stripper bolts but my lingo is limited. What kind of pickup body?
There were a lot of quick/fast pushbutton Mopars that use that trunion, and I've never heard of one breaking. Maybe they have, but I've never heard it to be a weak link. I think in that lightweight truck it will be fine even with a lot of horsepower. Sounds like a fun project man!
I'm not sure I understand the question on the trunion. I wouldn't worry about the trunion style connection on the trans breaking, it's stout. You can keep that and have a slip yoke style connection to absorb movement incorporated in front part of the drive shaft as long as you pay attention to pinion angle. There should be plenty of room. I'm running a trunion style 904 behind a 360 in an old dart and the only thing I'm worried about breaking is the rear end. It's not a power monster but it's a strong truck engine. I've also heard of guys just putting a slip yoke type main shaft and tail housing in the older trannies.
If memory serves me right the maxwedges ran the same trans with the flange. is that enough hp for ya!
We ran them for years in hard, drag racecompetition, and never had breakage. That was something the bowties did.
The trans will work fine, but it is NOT a bolt-up. Not only are the dowels in the wrong place, Not only does the crank project an additional 0.58" more than the 62-up units, but there is NO registration for the converter. Unfortunately, there is no collection of factory parts to make the combo work, you will need to buy an adapter from someone... Gary
There is a step in crank that mesures1.950 and is approx .250 deep.As far factory parts im aware the converter is a custom piece,with the motor combo the stall will be a chosen one also.I have two converter builders who have worked with me in the past to come up with solutions for odd combinations.As far as the additional crank offset of .580 i was not aware of,i have to see what flexplate options there are and if somthing can be done with the converter overall length to make up for this.If the crank is .580 further out how thick would your adaptor be to compensate for the offset,.750 or 1inch thick?If the converter is my only one off part im happy,I never had intentions to use a stock stall anyway.As far as locating the flex plate is that the register you spek of?
As is, the crank does not have any provision to support/register the nose of the converter and, at the same time, has no provision to register the flexplate. Any adapter package must include a flange adapter as well as the block adapter. It is possible to modify the flange of the crank to eliminate the flange adapter and at the same time convert to a 6-bolt pattern, but the cost must be considered. The 6-bolt arrangement is nice because the flexplates and flywheels are alot less money. 'Ya pays yur money and takes yur choice'.....Call the shop during the week if you want the details. 541.617.0613 Gary
I have personally beat the living shit out of 4 different cars equipt with ball and trunions. Never a problem. The biggest problem with those drive shafts is the U-joint in the back. You need an adapter to get that tranny to work. Don't fuck with the converter outside dimmensions, its not worth it. The adapter kit comes with a spacer to index the flexplate and locate the center knob on the converter in one shot. It uses a stock 426 flexplate to bolt to stock type converter. David http://www.hothemiheads.com/images/25000.jpg
Gary, B&M has an 8 bolt flex plate you can buy separately for around 45 bucks but you still have to address the issues mentioned by 73RR. I figured it would be cheaper in the long run to just drop the cash for the kit and then any future changes could be handled with off the shelf parts.
The ball and trunion should work fine. I ran one in a 63 Polara with 440 power for years. If you're dead set on using a slip yoke a 65 B body car with 273-318 should have a slip yoke cable trans. You can also change the trunion flange to accept a spicer type u-joint and slip yoke like a 4wheel drive front drive shaft uses. I used that set up in a T bucket with 413 power with zero problems too. Regarding the trans to engine--use a kit. They are pricy but worth it. Good Luck
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