Projects Project 55' Chevy B Coupe Gasser

I agree, keep the slotted aluminum wheels (Ansen Sprint style) in a big-N-little configuration. There are still lots of used ones out there; might even try recycling centers (leave your name with them with instructions to call if anyone drops some off). With the engine setback, it may be better to go with an automatic, or even a clutch Turbo so the clutch is only used once on the strip. A heavy duty clutch gets old real fast on the street. At least it's a "survivor", old time, drag car, and most of the "racework" is done, although some may have to be redone to meet current tech guidelines,.. It looks like the grille surround has been molded into the fenders/valance panel, but not on the hood. Are the fenders/valance fiberglass? That cross steer straight axle stub has taken a beating, but parts of it are still useable or saleable. I would use the stock front suspension. Neat car. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Thanks Butch, the slots are going to stay. The fronts although not in any of the pics are 4 inch Ansens. However the 12X33 slicks might be "a little" big for a small Chevy engine. . Asfor the trans goes I'll be the first to admit that an auto would be easier but....... the car has a Liberty geared Mopar A833 modified to fit the Chevy scatter shield that I'm kinda partial to.
I'm not sure I understood the question about the front clip?

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I love this kinda shit.

 

Pull the pistons from the mill that's in it. hone the cyls. put new rings and throw some heads on it and fire it up. Its much more fun when you can fire up a project and buzz around the block rattling windows.

 

My old blue coupe had an expanded metal grill. I am doing this on My Morris Minor gasser project.

 

That will definitely look good! What engine trans are you going to run?

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As fun as that sounds that 0.060 58' 283 has seen better days. No, that one is just for mock up.


This is the one that is will be going in the 55. I actually started building it before I had the car. An 852 block 283 bored to 4inch, SRP pistons (I would have liked to have more compression but used pistons were what I could afford at the time) Scat small journal 6 inch rods, Factory forged 350 crank, Comp Cams, Solid Roller .254/.260, .582/.588 lift, Heads are 461's with 2.02/1.60.




It should be fun! I figure it will be a good "starter" engine. Prior to this I have only ever raced stock stuff/street racing (back 20 some years ago)

 

You have a 1/2 in stroked and 1/8 in bored small journal block? Just curious


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Yes, that is correct.

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If the heads cc out at 62 with steel shim gaskets, you might get to 10.5 cr. U will good on pump gas premium.


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you might want to turn the pistons over?

 

Squirrel is correct about those pistons. You need to swap then side to side? or turn the rods around?

 

I was never brave enough to bore a 283 to 125 thousands, A o6o overbore was my choice. and they seemed to make enough power. I have a set of used 327 .o30 pistons. I have a 66 small journal block & crank. the rods have full floating pins but are large journal rods. and one rod is bad. The engine was built and didn't last very long. The builder installed a high volume high pressure oil pump. And didn't restrict the oil galleys & used a solid lifter cam. And the oil at high RPM all went into the valve covers and it spun a rod and main bearing. Eny road its a someday engine I would like to build.

 

I am running a .040 over 289 Ford with 14.00 to 1 compression and a Liberty prepped top loader.
It will be a light switch motor. Not much power below about 4,500 rpm's, but will pull to 9.
You are just getting warmed up at .060 over with that 283. Ran plenty of .125 over versions of that motor. My favorite was in a 57 Vette that had a straight axle and an Olds rear with 5.38's
Squirrel is right about the pistons. you will be bending all the valves like that.

 

Subscribed.

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Ahh, I hate it when that happens. I was just checking to see if you all were paying attention. i have always built my own engines but I'll be the first to admit that this is the first race motor I've ever built so it has been a learning experience. This is a good example of why this is hobby is a team based sport. . The short block has been in storage for a few years but it looks like it is coming out today to be disassemble.

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Old Wolf, certain 283 blocks go to 4 inch and even beyond better than others. Some won't at all. An 852 block typically can with out problems but I had it sonic tested just to be safe. Plus the early blocks won't take a later crank unless the counter weights are machined down.

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You'll never be sorry if you get the cage cut so the car fits you. Easy job for someone who does that sort of work.

 

The more and more I think about it the more it sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the advice.

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Subscribed!! Ought to be fun

 

You can have another bar made for behind the seat. Have a 90 bent on each end and it'll let you move your seats back.

 

The main hoop needs to be rear of the drivers head.

 

The 1st pic is from the NHRA book. #2 is what put in my car. Hope this helps. Note the door bar locations per Jim's post, in relation to shoulder & elbow.

 

Oops, ended up with a red X. Pic #1

 

Pretty cool car and I like the direction you're taking it.

 

Thanks chevy57dude! That is exactly what I wanted to see. I'm still a little bit of a ways away from making mods to the cage but the diagram certainly puts my mind to rest of what it needs to look like.

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How we ended the day! Let's try this again!


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By the way the real "TABASCO" is being restored in Temple City, Ca. Just a note so you don't head off in the wrong direction with paint and lettering.

 

That will be exciting to see. A lot people I know have been wondering what ever happened to the real car. Making a clone of Tabasco was the previous owners plan from almost 35yrs ago and was never my plan so we are safe. Although; as far as stance and overall appearance I wouldn't rule it out for inspiration and theme.





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^That's how all tri 5s are supposed to sit^