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Projects Project 29 Phaeton

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 340HilbornDuster, Jan 29, 2013.

  1. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p35.jpg P36.jpg P37.jpg P38.jpg P39.jpg Took the front end apart. Spring had a bunch of pre-load in it.

    I'm mounting the 29 spring to these bones with through bones spring perches.
    QUESTION: Do I have to pre-load the spring before mounting it?

    I'm going to redo the front spring / cross member. Is too high and the spring bolt hole is messed up.

    I don't think Henry used allen bolts...!...?

    Someone welded shock bolts to the front axle...Should be in hte crappy welds section.

    T
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
    volvobrynk likes this.
  2. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p40.jpg p41.jpg p42.jpg p43.jpg Old (early 50's) 8 3/4" Mopar rear end.
    70 11.5:1 340 waiting for a Hilborn.
    Ken, the reverse spring will work just fine!
    Got rid of the ugly steel pieces!

    Can't Wait...! New front axle and some hardware coming in the mail!
    T
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  3. DeepSea Fish
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 81

    DeepSea Fish
    Member

    That's gonna be one cool island cruiser. Good progress and glad to see a Mopar drivetrain for a change.
     
    OahuEli likes this.
  4. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p50.jpg p51.jpg p52.jpg p53.jpg Reversed the spring...second leaf too long, needed to be cut.
    I'll "fish scale" the ends later when i know i cut enough.

    Cut the spring hangers off the Bones...
    + Som mocking....while waiting for the new axle...

    Also cut off the original 32 x-member (it's welded & bolted) trying to get it off without dammaging it.

    T
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  5. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Save the 32 X-member?...enough grinding...whipped out the oxy/ace torch and cut the bugger out!
    Someone welded it in places you can't get to with a grinder...
    I think the original was riveted to the frame...Not bolted with allen bolts and welded like crazy....
    I'll be able to weld it back together later.

    Ordered Wilwood brakes 37-48 Ford hubs today!
    Killer price cheap shipping...!
    Cheaper or on par with F1 drum setup!

    T
     
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  6. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Progress:
    Haven't done crapp for two days...
    ...And now i have to fix.....I mean replace (nothing is fixable anymore) a leaking Radiator on my 2005 Magnum R/T....

    My 29 Ford Radiator is still good!!!

    New cars are junk!
    Tommy
     
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  7. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    Well, you're making good progress. I had forgotten about this thread. I'm glad to see you got over the idea of leaving the spring out in front of the axle. FYI, in the last group of pictures, the front wishbones are upside down. The thick side goes on top.
     
  8. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hi Metal Man...
    You got good eyes!

    Mustach:
    Thanks for setting me straight...We'll at least for this one,
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8722077#post8722077

    PARTS:
    As soon as my parts show up, (4" drop axle, spring perches, drop spring x-member etc. etc.)
    I'll cut the fram apart, straighten it & start working on the front end.

    Flippin the bones:
    I got the idea from My 392 Hemi Model A roadster build
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8697911#post8697911
    He's front end (the whole car) is awesome.
    I'm copying some cool ideas from his, like flippin the bones, v-cutting them to adjust the caster, using spring over spring perches with built in drop, I'm leaving the front of my rails...At least right now...and I might move the cross member forward a couple (2-3) inches (if it looks goofy I'll extend the front the same amount)

    H.A.M.B.
    There's soo many talented guys and a million good ideas here at H.A.M.B.
    Very addicting!

    Mahalo All
    Tommy
     
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  9. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p60.jpg P61.jpg P62.jpg P63.jpg P65.jpg P66.jpg Chassis Engineering 4" drop axle.
    Axle is here...Really nice! Old looking...?..but nice & it rings like a bell!...forged!
    It's crying for a bunch of holes...and so does the bones....later when all's giving!

    This is my third Wilwood Brake setup...I've always been really impressed with their kits...This looks like the nicest so far!

    Still trying to get the frame apart without doing too much damage!
    Almost there!

    This weekend I have to extend my side garage...another story!

    Aloha Tommy
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  10. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p73.jpg p75.jpg p76.jpg p77.jpg p71.jpg p70.jpg Finally got all the old "crap' out of there...
    Front spring / cross member was butch'ed...so I butch'ed it out of there to save the frame.
    They welded it in and then boxed the frame over it!

    Original V8 cross member was bolted & welded in there...Salvageable for the next project!

    1929 Phaeton frame remnant (32 cross member)

    Panorama picture (Learned it from my Wife's Mom...pretty cool!) from my phone of partially boxed frame rail.

    Tommy
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  11. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    g1.jpg g2.jpg g3.jpg Garage look with panorama.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
  12. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p80.jpg p81.jpg P82.jpg P83.jpg P84.jpg P85.JPG P86.jpg Cool! Almost got all the parts I need!

    Working on the Chassis...frame rails are straight (or crooked the right way).
    I don't want to spend big dough on I-beams to make a frame jig...just gonna measure a thousand times as I start welding it together.

    Just went through the Brake kit from Wilwood, it's Awesome! as usual...(my third kit)
    Not very traditional but...?..I LIKE GOOD BREAKS!

    I'm not using those spring perches w. a Allen bolt welded to a piece of pipe...(they're $9 from Speedway, no biggie)
    The top / pin perches will give another 1" of drop + they're solid.
    will cut them down in the lathe later and re-thread'em.

    Good Night
    Tommy
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  13. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Just piecing a flat-pack phaeton together over here. An old Australian body that came via LA, so would've had wooden sub rails, now long gone. Finally got it together on sedan subrails but it kicked my ass all the way.

    Got some pics somewhere.
     
  14. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hi Artiki

    What's a Flat Pack Phaeton?
    Pop some pictures on the HAMB...Or maybe you have allready?

    The Flathead Meltdown page doesn't seem to be working...?
    ERROR CODES ON PAGE:
    Warning: Parameter 2 to frontpage() expected to be a reference, value given
    in /home/dhart/public_html/includes/Cache/Lite/Function.php on line 100


    Aloha
    Tommy
     
  15. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    P90.jpg P91.jpg P92.jpg P93.jpg P94.jpg P95.jpg I don't own a Rocking Chair...Welding Stool will do!

    Moved everything around, This is how I like it!...
    That stance is a little high with the 18's (18's look cool! I think I will get the adapters (4.5-5 to 5.5-5) so I can put'em on now and then).
    It will come down with 16's in front!...I'm gonna put the hubs and some 15's on today to sse how low it gets.

    Cory T - Awesome weld in bungs!
    Someone said "It'll be hard to make these for 60 bucks"

    Ken. Thanks for lending me your tie rod so I can get started!
    Mac's sent me ONE tie rod end, the second one "should ship out in July".

    I'll keep it simple for now...everything looks good and the caster is ~5.5 in this position/stance...
    Trying to figure out the tie rod route....

    Aloha
    Tommy
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  16. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Hi,

    Flat-pack? Yeah, like I got it from a furniture store and had to take it home to build it, like a bookcase! :)

    [​IMG]
    This is how it looked when it was collected from LA by a friend...

    ...and I managed to get the whole body, including a folder roof (but no fenders!) in the back of my '56 F100.

    [​IMG]

    Been a slow build as I've changed career and moved house in the time I've had it, but here is where I'm at now...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Got a very low-mileage French flathead in there, mated to a '60s Volvo four-speed. Plenty left to do.
     
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  17. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IKEA started selling Phaetons....?(make sure they included all the bolts)

    COOL Tub! (& F-100 too), Looks like a really nice body!

    Volvo was using Borg Warner's back then I think? (Remember wrenching on Volvo's needing SAE wrenches for the transmission everything else was metric)

    I dig the Wheels. Are those 16's? Size tires..?

    Aloha Tommy
     
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  18. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Ha ha...the Ikea thing passed my mind too.

    The body has had its issues, but I knew that was the case when I bought it. It originally came from Oz so was RHD and set on huge wooden subrails. The subrails obviously rotted away a long time ago, so I've been trying to piece it together on sedan rails. It has not been straightforward at all, but is coming together now.

    The wheels are '35 16" with 700-16 'stones at the rear and 550-16 front.

    The Volvo trans are great. I've had one behind a banger and now behind the 8. Another guy over here has recently got his V8 and Volvo trans on the road, too. I've got some tech on the HAMB somewhere showing the swap. It's very easy if you use a truck bellhousing. I'll try to track it down later.
     
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  19. Helluva oil filler you have on there Darren.
     
  20. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

  21. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p110.jpg p111.jpg p112.jpg p113.jpg p115.jpg p114.jpg Some progress on the Tub.

    I think Ford built their cars from the bottom up.
    Subrails, posts, roof...etc.
    ...Mine is missing the bottom 4-5 inches so I have to build it from the top down.

    I squared up the body (X was off by 1.5")
    Welded the bottom of the doors / posts together so I can fly it while I work on the bottom.

    The Cowl is comfortably on my welding table....I'll finish fitting and TIG it all together tonight.

    Next getti some square tubing to start building home made sub-rails / supports.

    T
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  22. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

  23. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    p120.jpg p121.jpg p122.jpg p123.jpg p124.jpg Finally s'more done

    TIG'ed my buddy's seat on Sunday, ran out of ARGON...(gotta help your buddies...always get it back!)

    Filled up the tank today.

    T
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
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  24. Crackett
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 36

    Crackett
    Member

    Just wondering about the quality of the fender well patches. Are they up to scratch? Cheers Kane
     
  25. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hi Kane

    They're look nice, good thick metal but they're FLAT....originals are curved at the edges...
    Since I'm not really restoring this tub to original and i'm not that good at bending metal in 3D yet...I'm gonna recess them and weld in a filler peace.

    There was a guy here on HAMB that did bend/roll the edges....He was good at it!

    Aloha
    Tommy
     
  26. Crackett
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 36

    Crackett
    Member

    I had a feeling they might be flat. Makes things a little hard eh.


    Wanted: 28-29 Model a Roadster Quarter Panels
     
  27. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Yup, they weren't great to fit in mine either.
     
  28. Crackett
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 36

    Crackett
    Member

    Are they worth getting for the bottom 6 or so inches?


    Wanted: 28-29 Model a Roadster Quarter Panels
     
  29. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,915

    340HilbornDuster
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    I don't know what the bottom inches are supposed to look like...
    [​IMG]
    But, they're nice pieces! ...sure!...
     
  30. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,001

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    No probs with using them as a lower repair panel.
     

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