Technical Primer for wood before painting it???

I've got a buddy building a speedster and he wants to paint a bunch of wood framing in it the same color as the body. He asked me what to prime the wood with. He is using a catalyzed epoxy. Anybody have a suggestion as to what to use for primer on the WOOD?

Thanks
Z

 

I would say you need an epoxy primer but your best bet would be to talk to someone at Sherwin Williams they will steer you in the right direction .

 

I'm a trim carpenter by trade if he is using epoxy I wouldn't see any reason to prime the wood. Our cars are in garages the majority of the time anyway.

 

The only reason for the primer is to stop the paint from being absorbed into the wood .

 

I've done a few restorations on old chevys and put in new wood kits. We never primered the wood and just painted with black lacquer and haven't had any issues. Of course we weren't trying to color match the body, and epoxy may act different.

 

They make a product called sanding sealer. I personally have never used it, but others swear by it. As suggested above ask the people where you are getting the paint. Another place to check out would be where they sell unfinished furniture. I have used enamel paint on some wooden pieces and have never used primer with good results.

 

I use epoxy primer, and treat it just like the steel.

 

Primer is formulated to adhere to the wood, steel or grp, depending on what you are painting. Paint is formulated to adhere to the primer. You wouldn't skip the primer painting a car.

 

Before you do any priming , give it a couple of coats of sanding sealer . It will raise the grain and seal the surface so your primer won't soak in like a sponge . Give it a light sand with some 220 and apply whatever primer that you've chosen then finish it like any other paint work . Good luck .

 

in my world sanding sealer is the same as the two part finish but with solids mixed in . you can see the fine particles when you are mixing . goes from clear to cloudy and thick. same hardner and application . the solids fill any pours and stop the epoxy from just being absorbed. I use ML Campbell products and cant be happier.

 

When I refinished the wood wheels on my '22 Dodge Brothers I used an oil based wood primer on the wood and automotive primer on the steel. Then actually used Rustoleum 2X rattle can red paint and they look just like they did many years ago when I did them. This thing gets used in all kinds of nasty, cold, and hot sunny weather and have held up great.

Dave

 

I know this might be apples and oranges but I could not get any primer to stay on the wood door frame on my house . I tried everything sold in a can you brush on . Nothing would stick - it just flaked off after a couple months . So I went to Walmart and bought cheap white paint in a rattle can . It's been on there for two years now and looks good.

 

I agree with philly the greek

 

I painted the wood sides on my deck , no primer , just a thinned coat of color then normal top coat . It's been on nearly 20yrs now .
Good thing is , when the deck is in use (often) the paint is not knocked off the timber as the color goes right in.

 

That brings up a great point. All depends on the type of wood . Oak and mahogany are very porous. Cedar and teak are oily.

 

I am gonna use green treated wood for the floors in my project car. I am gonna use Boiled linseed oil and then paint it with spray can black.

 

I've never seen any good results mixing oil related products and paint , but good luck with your project .

 

If it doesn't work, I`ll do it over a different way.

 

^^^^good attitude

 

Epoxy for certain...

Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Did my wood cabinets in my upstairs of the shop kitchen . Sprayed epoxy primer PPG sanded smooth and painted them white ! Looks better than most factory paint jobs shiny and flat as can be ! Been done for over 10 years and look like day one ! The epoxy bonds to the wood and is a mechanical bond to the sand scratches before spraying the epoxy will seal up the wood ,and will not let any moisture in .

 

I built 2 plywood boats and used black PPG DP90 with a normal roller and paint brushes. But that is over fiberglass and epoxy not raw wood.

 

Use that black flex seal as seen on TV and you won't need primer or paint.

 

Somebody stop me. I think I am slap happy tonight.

 

Ya might wanna rethink using treated wood in your car. When using it for home building you are supposed to use galvanized nails or screws because the chemicals in it will cause uncoated fasteners to rust. Even if you paint the wood, chances are whatever screws/bolts you run through it will come into contact with the chemical.

 

Your best bang for the buck as far as a wood sealer is concerned, is Kilz. NOT the water based version, but the original oil based. It can be sprayed, rolled. brushed or whatever. Sands down cleanly. It was created specifically to prep wood quickly, easily and effectively for paint. It soaks in like stain and builds fast. It's cheap and requires no reducer or activator. Thin with mineral spirits and go.

 

As you guys know the Center Door has lots of wood.



So when it was time to give the old boy a spruce up around the flexi areas and other little parts, after 20 years.
We just used epoxy primer and then the paint.




The little bubbles are actually water as we were flatting it down

 

This was a really good question. And good to know info type replies!
Thanks.

 

On all my boat building/resto projects I've always used an epoxy primer that is matched to the epoxy topcoat. It's more expensive than house painting products but is worth the price in the quality of the end result and longevity of the finish. Nobody uses house paint on million $ yachts right...…….
I suggest you get on Jamestown Distributors website and read all about the available epoxy primers, sealers and top coats for boats, and while you're at it, read about the epoxy adhesive products for building as well.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com

 

I have seen the effects of non treated wood used in boat seats. It is not good. My neighbor put up a new deck and didn`t have a concrete pad poured yet. I gave him a 3/4 inch piece of green treated to use until concrete could be poured. It was there for 3 years. Never went bad as it sat out side in the sun, rain and snow. Stainless steal hardware will be used for the installation for the floor insert in my project. Wood was used from the factory.