Projects Prefect / Willys /Kadett Gasser Build.

Got to get back at it when things get back to normal. Been a nut house around here as of late. All good though.
A older gentleman offered the use of his paint booth for the finally spray when time. Looks like I may be doing that also. Appears I am the only one still using acrilic enamel with a high metallic(single stage)anymore. No one in our part of the world really wants to do it. All the materials and paint are here ready to go when we finish the body/prep. Just blood sweat and time. All that’s pretty cheap though. Lol

 

Nobody remembers or even knows how to apply acrylic enamel anymore Damn I remember when it was the hot new stuff introduced to replace lacquer must be I'm real old now.

 

Looks good Mitch.




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Thanks guys. I am going To hit/ buy another gallon just to be sure.Figure I’ll need it Lol

 

The large push button/safety switch on the lathe died yesterday. Needles to say we didn’t get a lot done. But I have the lathe operational for now. New switch on the way. I am still not happy with the door panels. I think they should be a little thicker but I want them to taper towards the back thickness wise.
Also trying to keep as much original metal in the rear wheel openings rear fenders . Original plan may not work. Kinda wanted to use my new Eastwood bead /flange roller but Mick says I am over complicating it. And that’s a 3 dimential roll fillet. I guess I could always use the 3/8round tubing trick and weld it to the edge on the inside. Then fill it. I have done that before and know it works but I had hoped to do it in one step. Trying to save time. Yea I know. That usually means you do it 3 times. Lol

 

Finished the rear wheel well openings. They went very well. A sanded radius and a very smooth even flow. I am pretty happy. It really gave the rear the correct look.

 

Looks "just right" now

 

This is my Morris Minor rear fender that was rolled with a bead roller then finished with a hammer and dolley . Very little filler and primer. Just saying with removable fenders you can roll the lip with a bead roller

 

That’s looks really good. I started to do the bead as well but after sanding and smoothing with flap wheel well radius was smooth and didn’t have an edge.
I took a block that was 5 in tall and took a pencil and spun the wheel. Guaranteed it had to be smooth and even. It will even clear a 33 tall slick. The Willy’s tires and wheel combo will literally swap. Should the need arise slick wise. Never know.
Last item before I get serious about paint is the door panel inserts. I want that molding line that you see on the Anglia doors.

 

Southerncross2631 . For the record used to have a morris minor pickup. Set up with a 2300 Ford and 4speed from a pinto. Was a ton of fun and would actually scream on the street. The stock front end always made for an intresting ride in the curves. Lol

 

Mitchell,,

I've been reading various posts on this site for several years years now, SO I finaaly signed up yesterday !!

A great forum for sharing and learning so many ideas and Technics.

You've got a great Post here and sharing your skills and ideas with others is a wonderful thing for anyone to do for others. I just wanted to personally thank you and others that have and are doing the same thing. Such actions are getting to be a rare event as of late.

I've recently started a '37 Chevy project. She's a challenging project and so far I've not gotten in over my head. But I sure understand your comment in one of your post.

My particular body is a Carbon Fiber Body "Shell" that was manufactured in Molalla Oregon by Superior Glass Works. I purchased the last body even manufactured '37 Chevy CF Race Car body.. This will be primarily a Street Rod, with occasional ET bracket racing. I am following NHRA rules in this project. No sense in re-engineering and being safe is a big priority for me.

Reading and viewing your posts, and well as others is a great mechanism that for me, Gives me Enthusiasm to get back out in shop, when there's been a few Tough Days !!

Unfortunately Superior Glass Works had an after hours fire in the "Glass fabrication bay" and it completely Touched this Bay, destroyed all of the Molds for various Carbon Fiber and Traditional Fiberglass Bodies, gone and lost forever. Luckily my one piece Nose, front end section, wasn't damaged too badly in the fire. I knew Brad, the owner, pretty well and it's a shame that this great company is gone.

Anyways, I'll start a post soon and share my progress and thoughts, here's a couple of photo's on the body sitting on the chassis.
Looking forward to reading you posts.....

Michael ....

 

Thanks for the kind words. I am no expert at anything. I don’t even think I qualify as a jack of all trades /master of none. Most of mine has been Learned the hard way. And that is often the expensive way.
Nice looking body. I had heard a little on the superior fire but didn’t know to what extent the damage was. Glad you managed to at least salvage yours.
Building a SFI spec car (NHRA/IHRA) car can be trying especially when you are an independent builder /racer and do everything you can because you have to for financial sake. The nearest tech inspector is 4 hours away and I have made -pulled more than once only To be told that I interpreted the rule book wrong. But in the end all of my stuff was safe and when or if I ever got ready to sell it wasn’t a problem.
Your build looks sharp. (And light) should be a blast. What drive train you gonna run?

 

Mitchell,

Like you I try to fabricate everything that I can at my home shop. I'm a retired Engineer, so I suppose it's my natures. Most of the time, especially in this build, there are no parts available the I require. I've learned the best fabrication skills mostly for my Dad and skilled long time friends. For instance,, Yesterday my friend Ron came over yet again and did the TIG welding on the Roll Cage, major milestone !!. My TIG and MIG skills just aren't up to par for Roll Cages and difficult welds, esp the upside down and longer welds. Now the Roll Cage is rigid I can start the Body to Roll Cage mounts fabrication.

YES, some of the NHRA rules are a bit vague for me to get the proper exact understanding too. When this happens I look at all the race cars photos, or in the pits at PIR in Portland OR., that usually solves my questions. Most of the races up here are very generous with answering serious question, esp when there know your asking about solving something on a car that your building.

I've got a busy day ahead, but I'll get my '37 Chevy post started soon, and I'll send you the link. This build is definitely a big challenge to date !! And it does keep me from the constant "tinkering or mod's" on my old '56 Chevy. It just doesn't need anything done or re-done. But there's always that urge.

How you have two projects + going on, not Me... I've got some questions, but first I'll re-read all the posts and then try not to seem too dumb!! I especially like the sheet metal on the doors, nice idea.

Everyone, have a great long weekend and Memorial Day. !!!

Michael...

 

I learn something new just about everyday in the shop. Especially what I don’t know. Lol
I have no altered ego. I am kinda living the dream so to speak.We are a small group of independents and pretty much off the grid. Each of us has a set of skills and together we are pretty well rounded.We kinda left the main scene for one reason or the other years ago. Seems time has been our best friend. Karma

 

Ok got the driver side door skin set and attached. This new type of door skin adhesive is shall we say good. Stuff. It’s says 40 min work time and that is exactly what it means. Lol.
Gonna round the edge to match the front cap but I am happy with the leading and trailing edges. There is enough extra material to match the lines. Now to duplicate the pass side.

 

Great attention to detail !!

What's next ??

I started my post on the '37 Chevy Coupe build, let me know what you think along the way..

Michael...

 

Ok. Welded in the bottom lip where the valence panel had to be cut for the rear bumper. I’ll use a little filler to get the edge completely smooth. The gas tank opening and the original bumper brace holes will be filled also. Should finish up tomorrow.

 

Finished the patch/weld up on the back. Had to remove the bumper to get at it but again should only require a small amount of filler.
Got the driver side door door pretty much ready. I am happy with the way the add on panel turned out after a small amount of filler and sanding. The original color was army green and the primer under it was red/brown or something of the like. We are going to use a new high fill primer. The pits in the metal are all surface stuff but there are a lot of them. Still structurally solid but again it’s good that this is a race car. Also filled the slot where the trafficator was. Simple as riveting a piece of .060 in place. Clean simple and effective.

 

Air compressor died last night at my house shop . Think its the capacitor in the motor/ possibly the pressure switch or both. I' replaced one switch about 10 years ago. Can't complain if its really dead this time. It is 23 years old and I lost count on the number of cylinder heads I've ported/ even number of cars I've painted. Compressor seems fine motor does not smell burnt, Bearings are tight and no squealing-and it tried to recycle when I removed the belt- so I will take it to be checked out in the AM( capacitor I hope). Funny a replacement compressor almost identical to it is only 100$ more than what I paid in 95. This one was a Coleman Brand/ purchased at SAMS CLUB.It looks identical to Harbor Freights 60 gallon/5 hp version.
Gonna try to repair if I can- if it something simple/but wow even if I cant hard to complain.
SO that means my door panel on the Prefect didn't get sanded tonight. Oh well- there is always the long board /sanding block.

 

God loves crazy people. Would you believe a 6$ capacitor and my compressor is back up and going. Maybe I’ll get another 23 out of it.
Now I got my doors finished and back on. Thought they turned out well/complement s the front cap. Little etching primer to give me an idea how well I did. Started sanding and surface prep. Gonna finish the rear tomorrow. .

 

Primed blocked primed again. About as good as it’s gonna get.
First time it’s been down off the racks in along time.

 

Tonight efforts. Now gotta get the other side of the front cap finished

 

If you ever thought Rustoleum paint isn’t any good forget it. It may not hold a shine etc but good grief I wished I had just sealed it and kept going. Anyway I am down to two doors and the rear fender.

 

Ok. Finally finished with the doors

 

Got trunk and spare tire cover primed and back on. The funny part is that I tested the tail light when I took it off. It still works. Lol

 

Definitely making progress now.

 

It seems like it’s taking for ever. Micks sinuses can’t take the body work etc so I am solo. Will still use a high fill primer over all when body work done. This body was solid persay but a lot of pitting in the metal.

 

What did we do before high build primer? I remember, block sand a lot more.

 

Front cap. Gotta finish the front nose and cut grill openings.

 

Was hurting my neck trying to see it.