Projects Pounding out a T roadster

Perhaps just a single point on the side and then radiused up over the hood following the line up frome the frame kind of like the inspiration 1932 BeeGee

 

Moose performed his magic once again and I like the cream colored scallops the best!

 

But in all fairness, let's show the black too.

 

If I do go the cream route, The front suspension and the wheels would be done to match.

 

Man, I'm really diggin the cream scallops! Very cool.

 

Kind of a nod to the Sylva roadster, only different to not copy

 

CREAM.......

 

Cream and body color frame rails

 

Manifolds back from the powder coater. Motor off to the builder next week if all goes well.

 

The goal will be to stay fairly stock appearing as if taken out of a wrecked car in the late 50s.

 

Got a start on the frame. Had to run to town to buy a press to straighten the one wishbone, but got it far enough along to finally see it all at actual ride height. Shop cat is still not impressed. I am thinking I may need a more impressionable shop cat.

 

Pretty boring stuff lately. Frame is boxed, shop rearranged and organized for more space, car set back up to start the rear suspension and mount the motor, trans, and steering. Taking a breather to head to Detroit this weekend and back at it Sunday .

 

Getting deeper into it. Tie rod drag linkbsnd panhard showed up right before I left for Detroit. After 9 hours of sleep since 5:30 Friday morning and 1100 miles of driving between work and Autorama, I got done time in the shop this afternoon. Starting to look workable. I beat and going to bed early tonight.

 

@justabeater37 I am enjoying your creation of a cool Hotrod and I am mentioning this as a concern. The front spring pack normally uses U bolts and you have welded brackets/tabs to the cross member and used straight bolts. Perhaps they may be strong enough but if it were to break the possibility of serious consequences are very real. If I didn't see it I wouldn't know to ask or tell but I have hence my sharing my thoughts.
If my concern is unwarranted I stand corrected...theres alot to know.

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Not to worry about the spring bolts. Kurtis did my RPU , and all of his cross spring race cars they same way. Actually, the top plate was tapped, and the bolts threaded in from the bottom. Neat and clean, and quick to work on if springs needed changing at the track. Kurtis did ad a small gusset from the plate to the crossmember.

 

Thank you Dean I appreciate the schooling. I remember Beater having a time getting the rad/shell down and this may have been done to aid in that.

 

The crossmember bears the weight of the car. No where near that much stress on the bottom plate. The kit Speedway sells only uses 2 bolts instead of 4 even.

 

Thanks for sharing this info verifying the structures are safe and secure. I learned something new today. Full steam ahead Beater.

 

Made some headway. Steering is all tacked in, made tabs for the shocks and panhard mounts, mocked the engine back in place. Have to move the engine back 2” from the original mock up for me to be happy with the alternator to draglink clearance. It would likely never been a problem as it would have to been at full lock with full suspension compression. Now it won’t ever be a problem. Manifolds clear the hoodsides so now I can start on a hood. Sure is a full engine room.

 

Quite the artsy pics @justabeater37...that top pic had my eyes doing the that's a different looking cowl mod for the transmission but i was going...the engine is in there...I finally realized it was the air cleaner...

That is really shaping up into a sharp looking Hotrod and the scallops really compliment it.
Great stuff...

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Pulled a thrashed model A hood out of the corner and decided to hack it up and start on the hood. I hate it. While the tape lines didn’t look bad, it was aweful with the actual hood. So the fight continues. I can’t lower the grille, which is already an inch lower than the cowl, so the only thing to do is raise the cowl. I think it helps a ton.

 

Huge challenge...Metal Clay literally

Your up to it but frustrating I'm sure.

Slice and dice Section the hood to reduce its crown as you said the cowl is 1" higher than the grille.


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Hmm. I never thought of that, but it should work. Good idea.

 

More specifically the cowl top and top of firewall. It will also help take some of the steepness out of the transition area that needed to be raised to fit the curve of the dash.

 

Man it's gonna be killer when it's done.

 

@justabeater37 if you were to pull the center pin on the hood and allow the halves to overlap would it not allow the panels to fall into place and level to the cowl assuming that there is just to much metal in those top panels then mark, cut and re-weld. The slope is minimal cowl to grille but I have seen lots of reverse slope in the vintage shots so the minimal slope is visually just fine in my opinion. Your a slice n' dicer so perhaps this has been thought of even tried by you already...just thinking out loud.

 

Here's an option if my suggestion is feasible then when you cut the hinge area eliminate the hinge altogether and make a one piece top similar to this Jalopy Racer. Dzus the hood sides and some Beater ingenuity to buckle the hood down on the non hinged side...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...genized-hotrods.1002926/page-53#post-12449976

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New cowl top on the way. Hinged one side was the original plan. Reshaping the cowl will help the flow from the curved hood to the curved windshield too

 

First piece in. On to the corners.