Technical Physically lifting a V-8 engine with the proper tool ?

I have never heard of the manifold plates failing. But usually folks are moving SBCs, SBFs, LSXs, that kind of thing.

When I'm yanking 1000+ lbs of fully dressed 392 with iron TF, I'll do something a little more substantial. The weak point is now the chain and leveler. I can't help but be a little nervous when I see all this stuff in the air.

 

ever see the destructive testing on them? the plate pulls apart before the intake or the bolts.

 

What lifting plate?


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Worth it to get a load leveler. Attaches to the hoist the same way but you can tilt the engine. Only about $40 for a decent one


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1 ton nylon band, works great with less paint damage than a chain

 

I wouldn't worry about the grade of the bolts. Even using 1/4" bolts, the shear strength of EACH bolt is 4468# grade 8 and 3683# grade 5. As far as threads, I think the aluminum threads would fail before the steel.

 

Why yes I do

 

I use a Harbor Fright engine leveler. I attach it to the heads, use a soft piece of nylon block for a pad against the aluminum. The green circles show where I attach the leveler lift angles.

 

I've seen many a motor lifted by a chain using running from one intake bolt to another cross corner and they are most likely two 3/8 bolts.

 

That is always a good plan, my friend.

 

Lifting plate? What lifting plate

 

I never used one but we did use one to lift the BBC ( with a length of pipe and about 4 dudes on each end) into the '27 T of the Thunderbirds at the Ramada inn once.

Lots og guys use 'em and like Jim ( @squirrel ) said be sure that all is tight and have a good grip length.

 

There he is !!!

 

Who’da thought that it would take 3 pages of engine lifting to bring out the beaner?

 

If ya do this on a regular basis you'll need ---> an we have an electric hoist too.

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Add 4x momentary stress load to your numbers when you get that jounce from the engine breaking free from the motor mounts and/or trans. Also, sand cast aluminum does not equal A356-T6 (which you seem to be making some kind of reference to in your second chart, though I don't quite understand its relevance).

The failure mode is pretty aggressive. One aluminum thread collapses, causing a small jounce on the other threads in the same hole. They collapse and fail, throwing the full load on the remailing 3 holes, with unequal distribution on the 2 holes to either corner of the failed hole. Because of the small rotation that occurs, the new load on the remailing holes is only partly in tension, with the rest in bending. The bending load tears out threads in these 2 holes, causing failure. Finally, all load goes to the last remaining hole, which is instantly hit with stoll more tention and bend loads. Then the last hole fails and you lose a foot, or maybe just an oil pan and pickup.

Having said that, I wouldn't be too worried about lifting an engine only so long as (as several have said) threads are good and bolts are snug. Watch your toes and set it down quickly.

All just engineering chatter at some level

Here's the best takeway so far...

/2 cents

 

Lifting plate? What lifting plate?

 

To those who are confused with the proper size bolts and rigging, probably safer to just lift the body of the engine.

 

Since I built my electric overhead gantry, I have been attracted more to using slings.
I built the gantry because I had concerns about lifting my Cadillac flathead engine with tranny attached.
It weighs at a guess over the 1500lbs mark and I could not see myself lifting from any manifold or with a floor crane.
So using a lifting plate may work most of the time with SB engines particularly, but can not be seen as a rule of thumb for lifting every engine being used by our hobby.
I purchased a 2200lb winch made in China of course, but the hook needed to be changed as it was only 1100lb rated.
You just have to be so careful when working with equipment where safety should be paramount...

 

This will probably come across all wrong but anyways ,,,

Safety first
It's never a good idea to be under a lifted load, ever ! Because shit really does happens.
However if you're so scared of the sketchy hook up or any of the lifting equipment that you can't trust it enough to sleep under it ,,,, DONT PICK IT UP! If you can't trust it enough to let it ride and that you must set it down quickly,,,,DONT PICK IT UP! If you don't know the weight of what you are lifting or the limits of your equipment,,, DONT PICK IT UP!!!! If it isn't loose, DONT PICK IT UP!

That's all WAY WAY WAY different than practing good safety measures.
No fingers in pinch points, don't get under lifted loads, one could also mention no unnecessay risks but no such thing, no risk is ever necessary.


So what's the weight of the engine Trans and whatever the hell else is attached?
What's the tensil strength of the bolts? X 4?
What's the load capacity and tensil strength the threads in the alloy? X4 ?
Or shear strength of the bolts if a side load? X 2 or 4?
Do you know where to find the info?
Can you tell the type and grade of bolts being used?
Or did someone polish the markings off of the bolts?
Do we know the difference between tension and shear?
Do the numbers make sense? Or
Equipment in good shape ? Or
Using The right equipment or the dog's leash?

 

Reminds me of the time about 1958 my pal and I were working in a junk yard. Decided to pull the flattie out of a '47 Ford. Unhooked (almost) everything and hooked up the boom truck. Pal engaged the PTO and let out the clutch and gave her the gas. In less time than you can say WTF the whole car was hanging by the battery cable that was attached to the solenoid. Quite a sight, engine 8 feet off the ground and car hanging from battery cable and solenoid attached to firewall. True story!

 

I bet it was

Well if you don't know that the pick isn't loose you have no way to estimate the weight you're picking up. For instance If you think you're about to yank 1000 lbs of engine and you are really lifting 3000 because it's stuck some kind of ways - well you're about to have a really big problem.

We welded a guys hammer down, he about flipped himself over when he grabbed it. He didn't know it wasn't loose.

 

I believe it...my Dad, brother inlaw and myself were pulling a SBC from BIL's PU, Dad was on the forklift, BIL (well blaming him cause he isn't here) left the top drivers side bolt in the tranny...Dad kept yanking until "POP"...when we discovered the bolt was still in, cracked the piss out of the TH350 BH.

Intake plate held fine, albeit into a CI intake.

 

Back in the day, I just used my bare hands

 

I guess all of this is osha approved but I sure ain't ballzy enough I know that much lol. I get a chain and put them straight into the heads best way to go I think. And put the intake one in the bay. PIA but I sure ain't spending $25 for some plate and stripping my carb studs and have vaccume leakes that my luck anyways. Gotta go the long way around and spend the time

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I always get jittery pulling and installing....Ive used seat belts for straps canabalized out of Junkers...doubled up and they realy work well on a fully dressed engine...and as stated always keep vital body parts clear of the load.......happy holidays to all you hoodlums....ha ha ha...oops ho ho ho

 

The HAMB, waaaay over thinking simple tasks for 20 years...

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Having worked in the construction equipment biz for several decades, this is one of the first things you teach newbies. It's part of the "situational awareness" talk, but you have to look around you at what is going on at a jobsite, be aware of cranes, forklifts, excavators, wheel loaders, etc, anything that can be used to lift things, NEVER walk under a suspended load, or under a bucket or boom of a machine that is lifted by hydraulics only. Many mechanics have been injured or killed by failed hydraulics, some guys do it to themselves by loosening a line while under a lifted boom or bucket. Always support equipment first with stands, bars or cribbing. This goes for working on cars too, don't get under a car lifted only with a hydraulic jack or floor jack, ALWAYS support the car first with stands, and make sure they are stable and fit for the job. Chains are great for lifting things, but there are different quality levels of chains, some chains are fine for locking down an object so it doesn't get stolen, but they are not rated for lifting. Use the right chains. A guy above, if I read his post correctly, said he uses old seat belts to lift with. WTF?? That sounds crazy. There are nylon lifting straps out there that are great for lifting certain things (like a hydraulic cylinder, which chains suck for lifting), but I don't think old seat belts qualify. Do it right guys, getting hurt really sucks, and broken/severed fingers, hands, arms, etc never work right once they are fixed/reattached. Avoid the humility of needing someone to wipe your butt for you because you used the wrong lifting device!