Hot Rods Panhead starts to build a coupe - without a clue...

Thanks for the kind words. So much still to do.

Whats the widest tyre I can get on a 4" rim??

 

I would say 7.50x16.

 

pete, just found this and i like where you going with it.best get it going for my next visit. lol, i got the video side of things sorted out so well put it on u tube! lol. subscribed.

 

Hey mate was that the vid of the 32?

Thanks Mark.

 

Hey Pete what year is that dash...I have 2 of them...any info would be helpful..

 

Really not sure. If I recall correctly early 60's but it was an eBay find a few years ago...

 

THANKS..must be a F-100..

 

Hey Pete,The old pics shure look great. I am sure that you have some real cool ideas for the coupe. I will be following this one.

 

Well it was chassis time today and just need to thank Flathead for all his help and fab skills. When I say "we" below its really him with me holding steel and passing cutting blades and drinking his beers. Now I've never tackled anything like this but after today will certainly be doing the next one. So if you are hesitatnt to have a go like I was, put away the girl guide cookies and have a crack.


.
1st step was coming up with a plan. After LOTS of reading I knew what I wanted. 4" stretch in front of the cowl to accomdate a SBC without reversing the cowl etc, a 4" Bleed style sweep and a large kick in the rear to get the body to 6" from the deck. To work out how far the kick up in the rear was I knew that with 28" tyres my centre line of the diff would be 14". Allowed another 2" for the radius of the diff, then 4" travel which came to 20" minus the 6" for the body hieght, which equal 14" step at the rear. Then thought that the chassis should be 10" from the vertical line of the diff as I want to run the rear really close to the body and that should accomdate for the rear wheel arches, (But really just picked that) and then at 45" step, another 14" would be the start of the step from the main rails. Hope that makes sense and works. ??????



After drawing this on paper we marked it out 1:1 on a large steel table which was great as you could see it. Then outside to cut some 100x500x3mm (4x2) into two 4m lengths. Plan was to have excess front and rear just in case


We then started at the rear and rather then just cutting to length took 45 degree pie cuts and sorted out the 14" rear step. he bits we cut out with the grinder were hot!!!!! All places where the chassis has been cut will be fish plated. It took a couple of goes to get the cuts perfect but soon we had them sorted.



We then moved to the front and put the bleed sweep into the rail at the cowl line. Obviously you need to bring the rail back so another wedge cut was performed 8" back from the centre line of the front cross member to allow fitting of the steering box on top of the rail and ensuring its parrell to the main frame rail.






After getting the rail sorted from a cut perspective we tacked it to the table and then used it as a "template for the second one and followed the same process.






Within a couple of hours we had both rails sorted but with heaps to do. We stood them up and ran out a centre line with a chalked string. With a firewall, Flathead did a quick 4" channel and that gave us our width at the firewall.




Now I havent seen or read anywhere else where someone has spread the frame at the front cross member but to improve space etc the current plan is an extra 1/2" either side. Any feed back on this guys? As Im using bix section and have a new cross member its easy to do.



Well that got us to the end of the day as to move forward we need the body as I want to pinch the frame to follow the body lines and had to go get it. Thanks for the loan of the ute mate.



Will post more tomorrow when we finish the chassis off including trimming both ends, front and rear cross members and trimming the front with the plasma to look just like an OEM frame, well sort of. A BIG thank you to Flathead, even if you are becoming some sort of gay restorer.

 

damn... I need a table ..

 

No you dont, just a flat concrete floor and a good back Plenty frames been made down here like that.

 

Nice job on the frame rails,Pete.Will you be tapering them at the front?If so,I have the factory dimensions if you need them.
Mark

 

Looking good Pete keep it up.

 

Some more progress today thanks to Flathead. Will pretty much let the pics do the talking. Got the frame rails completed except for the horns which need filling. Front cross member is in at correct angle, dropped the body on to make sure it all fits before finish welding. With a small trim it all slid into place.







This little plaque was waiting for me last night when I got home




I had planned to pinch the rails to follow the body like but am just going with straight rails.






Then at the end of the day we attached some small dolly wheels at ride height to get an idea of how it will look and make it easier to work on going forward.



Pushed it outside and I have what I wanted, to be able to lean on the roof whilst having a beer and I can do that Not sure if it will stay this low or perhaps left the channel at the rear an inch or two. Rear wheel is the planned hieght, front tyre will be 3" shorter, and no the rims wont be red





Still learning heaps and appreciate everyone's interest in what will be one of the least skillfully built cars on here.

 

did you mean the one i made? its on u tube. search kiwipackard. wish i knew then what i know now. would have made a far better one. ive made a few dumb ones and learned heaps.
just caught the new pics. great to see your not mucking around, at this rate yourll be driving it at christmas. very cool.

 

Great work, good on ya for ya 1st build, im just not so sure about grill choice , hey I may change when I see it on

 

So might I

 

Ive just gone back had another look, its not that bad , theres a A over here with something similar me thinks.........

 

Hmmmmmm I didn't think it was that low till I saw the picture. Dam your short Pete!

 

Pete,daft question time!I've noticed on a number of Aussie/Kiwi build threads that the steel you guys use is painted blue.Is this how it is supplied?Our stuff comes bare covered in preservatived oil.
Just curious.
Cheers,
Mark.

 

Yeah Mark generally comes that way - maybe its just sad

 

the casters on the frame to get ride height plus mobility is great idea.that dash is 57'-60' ford f-100

 

Ive always wonder'd that also Mark, I use to see it a lot in Aussie mags , now we get it over here.Only in box section. Its just a rust barrier I quess ,why blue ? BLACK would be the go .haha

 

Thanks Pete and KUZTOM.Wish ours came that way,save me hours of washing that preservative crap off!
Mark

 

nice..........................dave

 

Any new updates...need more pics!!!

 

1957 to 1960 f100. my dad had two of those trucks

 

No updates at this stage sorry mate as am travelling in China until the new year although rear suspension is all in and hope to have it as a roller on the 2nd or 3rd of January.

 

Love the build Pete.
One small change to consider...I'd transition the sweep into the horn without the abrupt corner at the top. Looks a little pointed to me.
SBC should be plenty of power and reliable.
Great job, keep on keepin' on!

 

Cool thread- thank you Pan Pete. Another one subbie'd.