painting the engine block & heads

Im getting my engine block and heads back on monday.. I want to paint them ... what to I need to do to prep the surface so that the paint sticks well and doesnt flake off later...

 

clean it!

 

Wash it to make sure all grease and oil is off. Wipe down with Laquer thinner.

 

how bout using alcohol?...so the only thing I need to make sure its clean huh?.. no special cleaner has to be used?... ok.. thanks..

 

Maybe this doesn't apply here but has anyone ever used Dow oven cleaner to get the grease and crud off? I was told that you just spray it on, let it set awhile and hose it off. Its supposed to remove paint as well. I was wondering if it would be good to use if you wanted to clean up an engine that was in a running car. I think it's pretty potent stuff, could remove finishes you didn't want to touch.

Frank

 

I use common brake parts cleaner. It takes all traces of grease and oils away and dries in seconds! Not fancy or glamorous, but very effective!!!

 

Oven cleaner works well, dont use it on engine in car, too much stuff to screw up.

 

If they just came back from the machine shop, and have been hot tanked, they are crud free, but have some oil on them. Get that oil off with laquer thinner. Should be pretty clean then. When I paint something, I don't want to ever have to paint it again, so once it's clean and oil free, I metal prep the surface, wash it with water, wipe it with pre-clean, wait a few hours for it completely dry, then paint it. I might be anal like that, but, it works. Dave

 

Ditto Fat Hack's brake cleaner recommendation.

Also, Q-tips dipped in brake cleaner are good for getting all the little hard-to-reach places.

Wipe with lint-free rags or a tack rag prior to spraying.

Post pics when you're done

 

I clean to engine with carb cleaner and prime with Rustoleum damp-proof. Then paint it with One Shot enamel.

 

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I clean to engine with carb cleaner and prime with Rustoleum damp-proof. Then paint it with One Shot enamel.

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Paul - how does that combo hold up to heat? Any problems?

 

Paul, your flattie looks great!!
I don´t know machine shops who hot tank the blocks or heads. They ´ll only work on blocks which are completly clean.So I clean the block by myself and hot tank it at a car wash before I´ll take it to the machine shop.
After machining is done I use paint thinner for removing the oil on the outside of the block. On the inside( oil galleries, etc.) I use brake cleaner.I always painted my engines using VHT engine enamel without any primer. Just spray on several thin layers to avoid drops.Always worked out fine for me.

 

I have to agree with every one. We just got the Fe out of the machine shop and I wash the thing with soap and water,and a stiff brush then, denatured alcohol, soaking a baby diaper(the old school cloth kind) to make sure all the water is gone ( a air hose for the oil journals). Tac cloth the whole buger down and spray it with my favorite 2part epoxy polyeurathane(Deft Chemicals) this shit don't run and dries to touch in about 45 min.

 

I first heard about the OneShot trick back in the 80s. Street Roder or Street Rodding Illustrated did an article on it. They say that the high lead content in One Shot is what helps it stick. The subject motor had some milage on it and looked good.