Hi everyone I have a 48 Ford 5 window coupe 350 sb, 400 turbo, ford 9" , Aluminum radiator, elec. fan in front of a/c condenser/radiator pushing and one on engine side pulling, no regular fan. Here in Phx. Az. it will get to around 230 but if I put both fans on manually while driving it comes down to about 220 but that is with out using the A/C. I've read somewhere that the Crankshaft pulley should be 3/4 to 1" bigger then the water pump pulley to make it run cooler. The last crate engine lasted about 8K before the camshaft started to crumble which put metal everywhere so $ 4,200 later I don't want to overheat this baby (not saying overheating killed the cam ) but I don't know, any help would be appreciated.
Well first of all, you have too many electric fans they are beating each other. Use just the fan on the outside of the rad/cond and take off the fan on the engine side and put a 5 bladed stock fan with a shroud and problems will be over
I disagree with Mr Footbreak. I would get rid of the outside fan. It just blocks airflow through the Cooling fins. The fan in the engine area must have a shroud. With that done, let us know how it cools. Phil
footbrake is totally incorrect in saying a pusher and puller fans are cancelling each other out. Both fans move air from the front of the car towards the firewall. That said I never use a pusher as it is an airflow restrictor. If theres room enough use a steel engine driven fan. If not use a Spal puller. Gary
Fundamentals first. Is engine actually running hot? (Bad gauge) is the timing correct? Retarded will cause OH. Was it dialed back due to detonation? Is there possibly a vacuum leak? Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I also agree with pprather. I have a aluminum radiator and a single electric fan that is located in front of the motor and it runs 175 tops. Also check and see if you have an air pocket in the motor somewhere. I have had that happen.
I always go to the Tune Up first. Lean burn will cause heat for sure. Also a large source of Heat in Hot Rods is Non coated headers. It don't matter tube or cast style, they all should be Ceramic coated. That alone will drop motor compartment heat a Ton. I agree with only One fan and prefer Engine side. That said I Hate electric. The minimal amount of work it takes to run a Engine mounted fan and a Shroud is well worth it. I understand some times you can't run a manual. That in my opinion falls back to Poor Planing on the builders part. Small block motors in Factory applications with Manual fans didn't have heating issues. Why is it in a Hot Rod with Electric fans they do? Take the time and look at your Fan unit. Most are of a restricted design to start with, at least the cheep ones are. The Wizzard
Not ALL SBC's with electric fans run hot. Attached is a picture of my 63 BelAir 2 door post car with a 2006 Toyota Camry dual electric fan set up that runs cool all day long A/C on or off and cost next to nothing. Fits the stock radiator like it was made for it. The car can't be overheated. Gary
I disagree with all you guys. But I am just not feeling agreeable today. An SBC is pretty easy to cool. I am not sure about your entire setup so I won't go into detail but as has been mentioned proper timing, and puller fan is your best bet. If it is overheating at speed the fan is not the culprit, no fan can equal 60+ MPH of air. You may also consider a good pump if you don't already have one, I run a flow cooler on my motors.
Gman, that is a grate set up. Look at it compaired to most aftermarket units. NO BIRD CAGE! That unit lets all the air it pulls move past the blades without restriction of air flow. The caged units actually restrict air flow. I have taken the Bird Cage style and removed every other band of them just to make my point to customers and watch the temps run cooler but often still does not cure the heat issues. Your set up actually also pushes the captured motor house heat to help evacuate it. The caged style units can't do that. I call them Air Mixers not air movers. Spal units are made like yours and if I must use one there's is my unit of choice. The Wizzard
I don't agree with anybody.. Put a good mechanical fan with shroud and you should be good to go.. Throw those dam electric fans in the trash.. A sbc is easy to cool....
The elec fan on the engine side seems to be stronger (moves more air) and it does have a shroud on it and yes both fans do move the air towards the firewall. Because the nose of a 48 ford is so narrow there isn't much width room. now that I look at it that front fan does block off quit a bit of front area so maybe I'll take the front one off and see if it helps.The room between the rear fan and the water pump pulley is about an inch or so, so I don't know about an engine fan. I'll have to see about a Spal puller.
How much room between the radiator core and the water pump pulley? That is the measurement we need to know if you can run an engine driven fan and solve your heating issue.
Well I have a Dakota digital dash and they told me that all the dash gauges are accurate within 2 tenths of a degree and besides the Dakota I have a solo water temp gauge below dash that reads about the same so.. I have not checked the timing yet and I don't hear a vac leak but maybe.
Boy howdy according to some of you the engineers that designed my BMW didn't know anything as it has a mechanical fan on the water pump and two small electric fans out in front of the radiator. Temp gauge sure stays right where I want it all the time even at 110 degrees with those tiny grill openings that that car has. The electrics usually don't kick on unless the AC is kicked on though. Temp wise, I'd agree with the question of does the gauge read right? I'm not a big fan of electric temp gauges as I have seen too many of them that didn't read right. One thing, If that crate motor were in and 82 Camaro Z28 what temp would be normal with the AC an an automatic? Sometimes we piss in our shoes over an engine in a hot rod that is wanting at a temp that would be normal for it if it were in a late model car. Is that hot for that engine? Also back to the original issue, where does the temp gauge read at 60/70 out on the open highway? If it drops back to just over what the thermostat is rated at and then heats up more than just a few degrees when you slow down there is indeed an airflow problem at low speed.
and if you are looking for room between the water pump pulley and the radiator, check to see if the motor has a short water pump if not that'll pick up an extra 1 1/2 or so.
Note to OP-A "flow cooler" is the name of the company that makes a high volume water pump that really works.
When cruising with both fans and a/c off it will go above 225 + if I let it so I manually kick on both fans and it will stay around 220 . I will go out there and pull that elec fan out front and see if the temp comes down but first I'm draining the cooling system to get to the thermostat and see what it is.I'm not real quick at doing some of these suggestions but I will do them thank you
57shaker, the thermostat unless not full opening is not your problem. When cruising you shouldn't even need a fan. A properly designed cooling system shouldn't run at 225+. No sense having A/C if you can't use it especially in PHX. My 46 Ford convertible 350 late model SBC with Vintage Air, Walker Radiator and engine driven steel 5 bladed fan never gets over 200 A/C on or off. Does your 48 Ford have the metal baffle panel installed above and forward of the radiator that forces ram air through the radiator? If thats on there I'd highly suspect the radiator. Take and post pictures of your problem areas so we can better assist you. Cars that run hot at highway speed is usually because there's not enough radiator. I wonder what radiator you have? Hopefully its not one of those $125 aluminum made in China specials. You don't get much quality for $125. I learned a long time ago that when it comes to brakes, cooling and steering you always buy the best. In my estimation Walker is by far the best. A little pricey initially but who else provides a ten year warranty? The Walker in my 46 Ford has been in there for 20 years and still going strong. Gary
If you are running a serpintine belt, make sure it is not glazed over and slipping on the water pump. Lesson learned the hard way.
I have V belts and they seem ok this morning my wife has a doc appointment but when we get back I will take pics of my radiator / fans situation. I will have my 5 year old grandson come over and show me how to put pics on the HAMB I swear all these new gadgets
Regarding belts: Worn pulleys and/or improper sized belts can cause problems. A good way to check both the belts and pulleys is to use a magic marker. Coat the sides and bottoms of the crank and water pump pulleys. (Might as well do the same to the alternator/generator pulley while you are at it.) Tighten the belt to normal running tension. Run the motor for a couple of minutes. The magic marker should be worn off the sides of the pulleys. If the marker is worn off the bottom, the pulleys are worn or the belt is the wrong size for your particular pulleys. Good luck.
Well I have some pics of cooling problem #1 through 6 and 1 is the front grill 2 a tranny cooler next to grill looking from engine forward. 3 is front electric fan, a/c condenser, and radiator, and piece of anti rub stuff I guess there's a plate that covers this area 4 shows rear elec fan with a shroud ( this fan is the strongest of the 2 ). 5 shows gap between rear fan and water pump pulley any ideas ?
What is the measurement from the pump pulley mounting flange to the radiator core. Sure looks like there is enough room to run a mechanical fan.
This is what ya need to do....get some REAL 1/16" silicone sheeting https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Under-the-hood-modifications/i-x7BwtfP/A and...... https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Under-the-hood-modifications/i-HMC8tfc/A and https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Under-the-hood-modifications/i-b4CNx6R/A
Air is like Water. It's going to take the path of least resistance. Those photos don't show much but I see plenty of open space for air to go over the Rad and not through it. You want ALL the air coming through the Grill to pass through the rad, not around it. Close up those open spaces on all 4 sides of your Rad. It may not cure your issues but it sure will help a ton. The Wizzard
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