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Projects ONE PIECE AT A TIME ('47 FORD COUPE)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by topher5150, Mar 1, 2017.

  1. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Thor1 and slv63 like this.
  2. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,286

    phat rat
    Member

    Or a trailer. I imagine getting that axle assembly up there wasn't the easiest thing you've ever done
     
  3. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    I don't do so good with backing trailer up, and working on anything on that Nissan takes way to long, and is packed in there way to tight. It took me an entire afternoon to change one spark plug.
     
  4. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,286

    phat rat
    Member

    I guess you'd be reluctant to drive something like this then. Backing just takes practice and the longer the trailer the easier to back P1030065 (1280x960).jpg
     
  5. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    This looks better got some help from a hamber friend getting the wishbone apart and the rest of the axel.
    He also offered to help make a trans plate if anyone has dimensions for this plate that would be helpful

    Went to a local cruise talked to an old timers about his 41 Merc hot rod. Got some good ideas.
    IMG_20180715_150823603.jpeg IMG_20180714_182039492.jpeg

    Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  6. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Need a lil math help. So I'm drawing up my floor boards on the computer at work, and was wondering how do I take into account size change of the blank after rolling the beads?
     
  7. I believe if you pre stretch the area where you're going to roll the beads the overall dimension should not change. You go about doing that by basically hammering it on dolly. This also gives you a flat panel when finished, not all waffly. No practical experience but this is how I understand it.

    Sent from my SM-J327V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. Without tossing in a lot of neutral-axis formulas at you, leave the outside overall dimensions a little on the fat side, final trim before welding them in. If the beads are stiffeners, it shouldn't impact the blank dimensions.
     
  9. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Thanks for the help fellas.
     
  10. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    So I've been doing some reverse engineering at work for the rocker boxes, and I'm wondering with the floorboards as flat as they are, how do they get welded up to the rocker box in the middle when it has such a big radius on the top?
    box iso.PNG box side.PNG main assy.PNG
     
  11. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,086

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    I'm impressed. A newby building a car (a cool one even) on some plywood in the yard.
    Looking good so far. really burn those frame welds in. Unless you get it hot enough to blow a hole through (probably cant) don't worry about too much penetration.

    Keep on at it!
     
  12. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Sometimes ya gotta play the cards life deals ya until something changes.

    I got the running board of tonight and I was kind of hoping to re use the aluminum running boards but they look pretty brittle by the holes IMG_20181004_185248275.jpeg

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  13. I just checked on the photos of where my floor attaches to the rocker boxes and mine all match up except where I didn't make the floor panel wide enough, just required a narrow section to be added. but then I did make my own rocker boxes.
    http://aussierodding.altervista.org/My Hot Rods/46.Convertible.19.html
     
  14. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    So got some square tubing today for bracing the body for removing the floor (from the toe pan to just before the rear seat riser) will bracing the door jambs and the pillars across the body be sufficient? Should I do any bracing to the rear at all? Should I leave the doors in or can I take them out?

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  15. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,562

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    It's always better to brace it more than needed than to brace it less than should have been done!
     
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  16. You generally need the doors on to set the rocker gaps though some tack weld them shut to add rigidity. A friend is using allthread and turnbuckles so he can push and pull the body square during floor replacement.

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  17. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    I thought about the turnbuckle thing to I'm sure I could rig something up to work with the square tubing that i got.
     
  18. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    I got the turnbuckles...so does anyone have any pearls of wisdom before I start hacking away this weekend speak now before I bugger anything up to bad.
     
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  20. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 1,954

    sliceddeuce
    Member

    Wisdom????….Make sure you put the body back on the frame first. AND, I have your trans. mount fab`d up for you. JB
     
  21. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Haven't heard form you in a while, thought you went into hibernation early
     
  22. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    I got the spring leaves cleaned up a little and the two bottom main leafs have a bit of pitting on them. Can they be used for reverseing the spring eyes? IMG_20181123_133922698.jpeg

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  23. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 1,954

    sliceddeuce
    Member

    That crusty looking rot is right where you want to reverse the eye...….I think maybe having either A-B Spring or State Spring ( On S. Division) make a new main leaf with reversed eyes would be a wiser choice.
     
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  24. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Does anyone have the instructions for the Chassis Engineering transmission plate. I reverse engineered my own and need to know how far back it mounts, and because the bottom of the x-member was replaced I don't have anything to reference off of that.
     
  25. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 682

    oliver westlund
    Member

    awesome build! im starting on a 47 long door myself. this is the first 47 ford thread ive found thats current, i follow along!
     
  26. CE at one time had most of the instructions as pdf files, check with Heidts who bought them out, possibly they could email you one.

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  27. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Got my new dropped main, and u-bolts back today.
    I'm using the speedway dropped crossmember which is 2.75" wide the ID of the u-bolts they made is about 2.875" in the threaded area and almost 3.00" above that. I'm going to make the plates for the U-bolts should I make the hole spacing closer to the size of the of the crossmember to tighten things up a little?
     
  28. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

  29. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,506

    topher5150
    Member

    Went to work this morning and cut off the ends to leaf #2 went to tractor supply got some paint and hardware IMG_20190105_125219961.jpeg IMG_20190105_125952428.jpeg

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  30. razoo lew
    Joined: Apr 11, 2017
    Posts: 272

    razoo lew
    Member
    from Calgary

    Do you not need room for the spring PLUS the crossmember to clamp the whole thing together? Looks close if that is the case.
     

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