I know its been posted before, I just couldn't find it. Anway, I'm gonna stripe this lowrider tomorrow, and he wants to clear over it. What type of hardener do I need to use? I've heard that some people use the HOK hardener...does that work well? Also...how do you apply the hardener? Do you mix it in with the paint? How long will the paint stay workable? Any help would be appreciated Thanks Jake
i think i remember seeing an actual "1-shot hardener" at the place I get all my paints from last time i was there. The place you get your supplies from should be able to put you on the path....
I'm probably mot the most experienced guy ...but everything I have cleared over (one shot) has had no problems...just as long as the painter lays a tack coat before he flows a heavy coat . I have had people ask me to add hardener...so I just used a drop or two of whatever product line they were painting with. You could always just get a can of HOK striping paint it's actually a basecoat that was meant to be cleared over.
Brewsir is right....I've cleared over 1 Shot many times....murals, pinstriping, patterns...... And single most important thing is ...the first coat should be a mist coat and allowed to tack a little longer then normal........the folowing coats should be heavy enough to build but not too heavy or the 1 Shot will react....just take your time....or tell the guy that's clearing to go light with the coats...... I have never used hardener........never had to......and make sure the 1 shot is absolutely dry, a day or more before topcoating.....we used to use 1 Shot on mini trucks and lowriders back in the day...before there were waterbourne airbrushing paints.....
Jake...Here's how I do it...others may do it differently, but since I've been using this method, I've never had a problem with One Shot lifting under urethane clears (knock on wood). You'll need a small can of urethane hardener...I've used several different brands all with pretty similar results. Some people like to use the same hardener that is going to be in the clear...that works well, but I usually use PPG DCX61 when I can. The cheaper Omni hardeners (MH167 etc.) work just as well...but if you're concerned about mixing different brands, use the hardener that will be used in the clear. Pallet your paint like you normally would, and just add a tiny drop of the hardener to the paint as you're getting it to the consistency you want. You don't need much hardener at all, and if you use too much you'll have to stop and clean the brush frequently. When I'm mixing my paint to go under clear, I thin with lacquer thinner. It dries pretty rapidly, but it'll keep the paint from being "oily" like it would be with mineral spirits or the One Shot reducers and as you work it into the brush, it cuts the paint that's already there, keeping it from drying in the brush. You're going to have to go back and forth to the pallet more than you would normally to keep the paint in the brush wet. And if you like to mix your paint in a cup and load the brush that way, you're going to have a problem with the paint skinning over in the cup if you don't work fast. It's my opinion that it's best to mix the paint with hardener and reducer (thinner) on a pallet. If you make a mistake, I've found that it's best to wipe the mistake immediately with Wax & Grease remover. This almost always takes all the paint off without leaving a 'ghost' image or harming the paint underneath. When you are finished, make sure that you clean your brush VERY well with lacquer thinner to get all the paint and hardener out. Dip the brush in oil or brush conditioner and make sure to work it up into the ferrule, or the paint and catalyst will dry up there and ruin the brush. Radshit and Brewsir are right about the first couple coats of clear needing to be very light. Make sure you tell your customer this, as it will help to avoid any problems that could arise. Like I said, this is how I've been doing it for several years now without problems....and there may be other ways to do it as well with good results.
i have never heard of puttin hardner in it.... i have cleared over it 3 or so hours later and never had any problems....but dont clear it when its wet or it will make the one shot run and look fuzzy....
I've also used the hardener that One Shot sells. It's way more expensive and I personally didn't like it. I should also add that you can get away with clearing over One Shot without a hardener in it...but you are taking a big risk. Add a little hardener to the paint and you'll save yourself some stress from wondering if you're going to have to start all over again if it lifts.
Thanks for all the help guys...the car I'm going to do is really nice, and these vatos would probably kill me if I messed it up.
i've never used hardner, just make sure whoever clears it knows to lay on a few dry dust coats first. one of my painter friends clears bike parts as soon as i'm done with them (still wet), makes me nervous, but there has never been a problem, he just dusts on a few dry tack coats. i use one-shot except when a painter insist on hok striping paint. one time an inexperienced painter slammed his first coat of clear over a bike tank and the pigment ran like crazy. of course at the rate he tried to put the clear on it would have been running like crazy. by the way, lacquer thinner is really hard on the brushes.
I've cleared over 1-shot with and without hardner in it. I do two tack coats with extra flash time between, then do the wet coats. I've never had a problem doing it this way.
Thanks for all the tips guys. The car is almost done and I haven't gotten stabbed yet... I ended up using the DCX61. You weren't kidding bass, it takes just a tiny drop and you can tell a difference. I'll post some pictures when its done.
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