Hot Rods Of course I got a run in it.......now what??

So today was the day I decided to paint the roadster body. I've been at this project a little over two years and finally paint.
Everything was fine until the last coat....damn!!
I'm using Limco single stage because I'm just not a fan of the plastic look of base coat clear coat on an old hot rod.
I'm a self taught painter and Id like to think I do a pretty fair job but its been about fifteen years since my last paint job. Back then I was using Centari Acrylic Enamel with really good results. Even sanding and buffing it was no problem.
Now I'm wanting to know, can I treat this paint the same way figuring I will wait a couple weeks to let the runs dry well and run my nibbler over the runs to get it smoothed then block sand it and buff. Will this work?? Or is there something else Id have to do?? I'd hate to have to repaint the quarter because I'm not sure where Id break it and I'm told spotting it in would be a chore to get good results.
Any pros on here who can give an old guy some direction? Basically, how do I do it??

 

The picture didn't come through.

(if it's one that only you will see, you can leave it alone. If it's a big one....someone will have experience with something similar. I have no idea, myself)

 

I hate the runs.

 

Did you put catalyst in the paint? If so yes wait a few days and sand and buff. If it was metallic paint you can get it smooth, but the run will still show in the metallic.

 

Yup, color matters a little. Let it get hard then have at it. Wait, that sounds like a double, uh, nevermind. Check it with your thumbnail in about 3 days, see how deep you can mark it now then in 3 days you'll know how hard it is. Once it's fairly resilient you can file it down and then sand easy, buff it out. BTW it's not a run, it's a flow check...

 

Its a solid color...Washington Blue

 

Leave it there. Tell everyone you paid extra for a custom paint job.

 

As others have said, let it harden off, then I myself would get a rubbing block and 1000 grit wet and dry, add some dish washing soap to some water (aids in lubricating the surface while rubbing, so the paper don't stick) and wet sand it back, when rubbed flat, being a solid colour, a good compound and polish should be all that's needed..

 

That is exactly how I do it.

 

Runs (flow checks) do shrink a fair amount on their own.
I'd let it shrink before sanding and buffing.
Also if the run is tall you will sand through different colored layers of material that may show especially after buffing.

 

Razor blades, they aint just for cocaine. Use the kind for a safety razor as they are flexible. Pull the blade across the run, don't push it and try to "cut" the run. You use the blade to shave the run until the blade is hitting the flat paint. then wet sand and polish. I've done it many times...unfortunately.

 

I'm going to add to the razor blade trick. Before scrapping the paint I run the corners off on a piece of sandpaper. Lot less chance of digging into the paint, those corners will dig in and cut the paint if your not careful. I assume the nibbler you got is one of those little files they sell just for this? If so, go ahead and use it instead, I'm just cheap and never bought one, been using blades long before they made tools to cut out runs. Besides, I hardly ever have runs. (I wish).

 

If you don't get any runs, you didn't put on enough paint.

 

Be really careful with those little files.....they are really aggressive. Easy to go too far...

 

Take it slow and don't get in a hurry. Check it often with a squeegee. You only get one chance. Jim

 

OK Iv never tried this my self I think I saw it on you youtube a bloke from Australia showed a big run He toke a tube of glazing putty smeard over the run let it dry then wet sanded tell all the glazing putty was gone no more run. Paints wet sanded and ready to buff this aliments burn thru

 

Pretty sure I know what you're saying here.

Yes, it works too. You use catalyst spot putty, and just wipe it across the run so you just see it , then kinda taper it out .
Stay right on top of the run until it's gone, and you shouldn't have too much putty to clean up.
Razor blades work well on a convex surface. I just dull the corners on my wire wheel.
Don't ask how I know all this.

 

There is always this little gizmo which I have considered ordering before I spray my own RPU with Washington blue SS acrylic urethane.
Sort of insurance
I'm going on the premise that if I buy one I won't need it
http://www.eastwood.com/motorguard-run-razor-blocker-set.html

 

By the way

 

That paint is THIN , one run, i'd say ya done GOOD.

 

I have been painting cars (VERY armature) for 30 years and run every one of them. No problem. Make yourself a 'cabinet scraper' from a single edge razor blade as mentioned above. A bit of careful scraping, color sanding and you have a show paint job. This really works, give it a try. Kinda fun!

The first thing you need to do is 'roll' the edge of the blade to give a hooked edge. I rub it at an angle across a paint can opener.


Next bend the blade as shown with the rolled edge to the outside of the bend.


Now gently drag the scraper over the drip 'til it is level with the surrounding paint. The curve prevents the blade tips from digging into the paint and also concentrates the cutting action to the drip sparing the surrounding paint. Once the drip is gone car is ready for final color sand and polish.

 

Put a thin coat of glaze on it and block sand and buff.

 

x3. Had a drape on my firewall and used this trick a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, mine was with a metallic, but was small and won't normally be seen.

 

love the idea with the spot putty, that would work amazing !!! ive painted for 35 yrs and never tried that, thats cool

 

I like how you think!!

 

I went ahead and ordered the run razor and the little aluminum blocks for smoothing them out.

Also ordered some good tack cloths.

 

Let's see some pictures of that paint job

 

What kind of glaze are we talking about here?? I do like that razor blade bending technique.

 

See post 17.. Not too far above^^^

 

Good ideas about the razor blade and the glazing putty...

I always hate the little phrase "just one more coat".