October's 4 Banger Meeting,...now in session!

I just read the "secrets" article on that pulley, Remove the same weight off the flywheel to run it and make sure the engine is completely balanced or it won't do shit. Nice find you have there.
OK more info = "winfield vibration neutralizer" SOSS V4.1 July 94 page 33. It appears there are four pieces that go to the assembly (appears you have them all!!) and G.Scott of Antique Auto parts has reproduced it. Old phone number but here goes 818 280 4546

 

Some intake heat makes a car much more drivable on the street. I have not tried to weld up a combo manifold with tube and a common plate for both intake and exhaust, but would not hesitate to do it if I needed one. Note that the stock Ford manifolds are supposed to touch one another, in the area above the carb. A lot more heat is transfered there, than would be with a "header" flange plate, because it would lose a little heat to the block.

As to the damper that is located in , or on the, flywheel. IMO, any benefit in smoother operation from this has to be from increased flywheel mass, and that is damn little. Mostly, I think it in the mind of the guy who paid good money for it. Torsional vibration is the minute amount that the front end of the crank twists when the front most cylinders fire, and apply torque to the crank. The flywheel mass resists this for an instant, because of inertia, so the crank flexes. The front pulley acts as a small flywheel to give the front of the crank more mass, and absorb some of this twist, again, because of its inertia. The best arrangement would probably to have equal flywheel mass at each end of the crank, but space precludes this, In any event, a piece added to the flywheel end isn't going to help that I can see. Balancing flywheel and clutch assy. makes all the difference in the world.

(happy Coaltown?)

Herb

 

Well you certainly " get it" . no sarcasm intended

 

On manifold heat, most early engines had some method of heating the intake manifold. "A"'s and "B"'s had them bolted together, One way of increasing the noise or sound of dual exhaust on a flathead V8 was to plug the heats. My recent experience has been with a shop built Al. side draft manifold on an "A" Winfield flat head and a cast AL. manifold on my 2 port, in both cases the engines will stumble off the line unless water temp is 180 to 190. up to that point you can place your hand on the equalizer tube and it will feel cold, when it feels warm it is time to go. Both engine run Winfields.
On vibration dampeners, there was a guy that ran a dual cam HAL and it would often shear the flywheel mounting bolts. He cured the problem by installing a SBC dampener as supplied by Vic King (Midnite Oil). I have had 2 cranks break at # 4 throw one with a chopped flywheel the second with a 12.5 lb Al flywheel, both were balanced to zero. This gets expensive so I now use a SBC unit adapted to the "A" "B" engines and this 2 port has many 4 grand passes. When the cylinder fires before TDC that throw tries to reverse direction, twisting the crank applying severe stress to the crank and the dampener dampens the shock or stress. This is not just theory but personal experience.

 

yep, Winfield was onto something there. i would suppose this became much more critical with his 2-up 2-down B engine he built. the stress would then move to the #2 main and with 2 cylinders rather than 1 trying to reverse direction the stress would be twice as great. any engineers care to chime in here?

 

"the engines will stumble off the line unless water temp is 180 to 190. "

My current set up is a stock intake adapted to a single downdraft, minus the heat transfer plate thingy. Using the stock exhaust manifold. What you described is pretty much the case with my setup too.

 

hi
you remember i tell you that my engine dont run perfect
last day i change my two 81 in not so good condition with two 94 like new and y change the condensator from my distrib.
i go make a run today and now the car drive realy good .
i m happy
cho vincent

 

Are you selling the 81's then, Vince?

 

Guys,...

Anyone have a manual on the Wico JEM magneto? Anyone know of any magneto repair guys?? I want to talk with someone about it,..and would like a manual.

thanks....

 

mainely magnetos is who I used. They have a site.

 

Pulled the head of my old 14.9HP small bore engine - damn it's in good condition inside for a useless boat anchor.

For those that have never seen this factory "speed part" here's a poor comparison shot with a stock head. Diificult to tell, but the chamber volume is smaller - notice the plug is buried deeper in the chamber as it's in the stock position on the outside. Perhaps when I get it cleaned up I'll take a better shot and measure the volume. Reckon I'll suck it and see and try it without flycutting to the larger bore. Fingers crossed the pistons don't meet it...

 

This may sound like a dumb question but I am going to run twin 97's on my Winfield equipped banger and wondered what jet sizes I should run?
I know, it should probably have twin 81's but I cant find any....

Whats the original jet size on a 97 and an 81?

Thanks

 

I had 49's or 50's put in my 94's for my banger. Since everything is still apart, I can't comment on how she runs, but this size was recommended by the carb guy and Brent - two experts in my opinion.

 

Hope you have better luck with your head than I did with mine!

 

Any of you know anything about the small-bore Model BF head?? I've heard at third hand that the AF head is a useful piece but that the BF can't be used on a B. I have no idea why that would be...anybody have one or know??

 

What's this "small bore" business? Are these tractor engines or something?

-Dave

 

These are Model A and Model B engines with a substantially smaller bore than regular USA types; They were offered in England and sold also on the comtinent because British tax was based on a "taxable HP" formula based on bore and number of cylinders...big bore engines moved into an area of tax cost that was difficult for many people to handle.
Don't have numbers on bore and displacement handy--have GB parts books at home. They had of course small cylinder head volume and came with low rear gears and a hotter cam than big engines. Lots of pieces in there I'd love to see and play with...

 

I had a BF engine - from what I recall it's something to do with the water galleries. There's a small hole between the cylinders on the AF head in my picture that isn't there on the A head. Possibly it's bigger on the BF head and pours water down the bore when fitted to a large bore engine Bruce?

Any details on the hotter AF cam? How does it compare with a B cam?

 

The holes may well be the same mismatch that makes a B gasket slightly different from an A...but I don't know, or have any actual clues on F motor cam timing. Just neat stuff I've read about or found in my catalogs and would like someday to get hold of for analysis...

 

alrighty boys. question for yas! found a 1940-42 1/2 ton truck with the 4 banger in it. I know it's a N-series tractor engine they put in these trucks, but what was the transmission?? is it a standard v8 tranny or did it have a different gearset/bolt pattern?? any interesting speed equipment or bangers built off of this setup?? it's got insert bearings and replaceable sleeves stock.....

 

hey revkev6 on that banger eng in truck post a pic and try a model A bellhousing on the back of it who knows??
Ken

 

I'm looking at the N overhaul manual...it has a cast-on bellhousing much like a V8, quite possibly same circle, but the starter interrupts the circle on the left; it is about where it would be on an A_B engine. So--I'm betting on 85 type gears (even the 60 got those in 1940) and a special case. Do not have parts book here to verify.

 

Any banger guys running a Columbia II speed rear axle here?/ If so, what year,how do you like it, and what did you have to do to adapt it?? Thanks guys.

 

sounds interesting i agree with ken lets see it if you can