Non-greaseable U Joint?

I had intended replacing the driveshaft U-joints, but they are the type with the plastic that has to be burned out. The rear is a 59 chevy car, so is this a 1310 series U joint? If it's the nongreaseable type should I just leave it alone, or is there a greaseable replacement? I don't want to burn out a part I can't replace.

(driveshaft picture, i obviously live alone)

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00043515/11731939040.jpg

 

the plastic retainer type (saginaw) used on GMs in the later 60s-70s is not the 1310, but there is a conversion joint Perfect Circle 3022 that converts it (other companies make them too but I don't remember their numbers).

did you look close to make sure there are no snap rings on the caps, inside the yoke?

also, I never burn the plastic out, because it pops out pretty easily with a press or bfh

Replacement joints pretty much all have grease fittings on them

59 chevy car rearend would use a 1310 joint

 

first off they should not be burned out,,they should be pressed out ,,they make a greasable inside clip as a replacement

 

The glued in type are a 3R series. The Neapco part # is 2-3011. As these other guys said there is no need for heat.

Brick

 

thanks guys. glad i didn't torch it. i obviously have some reading to do on the subject.

 

I burn the plastic out just cause it's cool when the seals pop and splatter hot grease.

Doing it by yourself, with a BFH....you might end up burning them out. Kinda hard to hold it all steady and swing hard accurately. Spray it with penetrating oil as a quench after the plastic has oozed out and the seals popped. Sometimes helps the stubborn ones. Otherwise a press makes short work of em.

Are you sure they're retained by plastic? Some of em have C clips on the backside of the yoke, can be hard to spot. And not all replacement U joints have zerks, some are sealed. Plastic means factory original joints, which is kinda unusual on a 30 year old driveshaft.

Good luck

 

Heat works just fine! Its quick simple and safe. Just heat the face of the cap , NOT the yoke. Its takes very little heat! Anytime a "factory"
3R joint is removed , balance is a must! The glued in joint will almost never be perfectly centered on the yoke and thus balanced that way. When the replacement is installed it with its snap ring design will then be centered , thus any balance weights will not be in the correct location.
Here is a tip for any joint replacement DO NOT USE ANY U-JOINT THAT SAYS "GMB" ON THE CAP!!! Most commonly found at napa. Their tolerances are NOT held very strict! Use either Spicer , Neapco , or in a bind Autozone , or VIP "lifetime non-greaseable"
I repair driveshafts all day every day there are ALOT of junk joints out there. Please don't be "that guy" and pound on the tube when replacing joints, hit the yoke just above the tube , and only clamp your vise at the weld or barrel of the yoke , not the tube or ears of the yoke.

 

If you can get a replacement U joint without a zerk hole it will be a lot stronger. If you replace the joint with one that has a zerk then be sure to install the joint so that the zerk and its hole are in compression during hard acceleration.

Rex

 

zerk always faces the shaft