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Projects No spark from coil, no start

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mister E., May 4, 2018.

  1. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    I do have another issue however, somebody at some point has removed the vin plate from the door frame. Is there another location on the truck to find the vin / serial number to the truck?
    For title and registration purposes.

    Thanks all.
     
  2. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    I know where the number is or should be on an F1. I have no idea on a Chevy.

    If you live in a title state you may have a problem.....such a problem that that truck may be parts.
    Does it have a title?
    If not, research the steps on getting a title in your state.

    I have found calling the state capital is a much more pleasant experience than going to the courthouse. I used to live in a urban county now I'm in the country......

    It was just that the tag line was a 3 hr wait and the personell were busy and not helpful. Rural counties you may have better luck.
    Busy places have no tolerance for.....I don't know....extra work load ........so they may make up something on the cuff. Next!!

    Too there's the tyrant for day thing.
    It's human nature when people are controlled like cattle for something they really need, for the controllers to.....jack boot some.

    If you are rural....you may have better luck.

    The bottom line is....don't sink another dime into that truck until you know for sure you can get it tagged.
     
  3. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    That really doesn't help much.
    As I don't mess with fords, only Chevy / Gmc.

    Is there anybody that DOES know where to look on a CHEVY truck?

    Like maybe the frame rail or another part of the cab, or maybe the engine block???

    I'd really appreciate any help.
    Thank you.
     
  4. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

  5. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    I haven't modified the front end. Is all original from what I have seen and the guy has / had title at one point, he just can't find it right now.

    I will look on the frame near the steering box and see if anything is there tomorrow.
    As long as all goes well I should be able to get title and all paperwork taken care of without too much trouble
     
  6. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 12,989

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I can see why you think it is geared pretty low... It is a 3/4 ton truck... I don't know what your plans are but 3/4 ton trucks typically do not make good hot rods
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  7. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    Not making a hot rod, want it as close to original as possible, as a daily driver / work truck. But at the same time, want it to not be a turtle on the roads.
     
  8. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 12,989

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member


    you may want to check what gears it has and what is available. It is probably not much more than a 50 mph cruiser in stock form. you would really be far better off with a 1/2 ton truck....
     
  9. If that truck is solid, I'd drop it on a 1/2 ton chassis.
     
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  10. VANDENPLAS
    Joined: Dec 14, 2009
    Posts: 1,127

    VANDENPLAS
    Member

    Unless you need 3/4 ton capabilities
    Dropping it on a 1/2 ton chassis would be the way to go

    The 235 bell housing you have will take a “ modern” Chevy 4 or 5 speed trans

    And swapping out the diff to better gears can be done
    It will have granny gears in the tranny 1st is basically a stump puller

    Cool truck
     
    Mister E. likes this.
  11. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 2,426

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    4.56 is what you will usually find in the 3/4 tons, 5.13 in 1 tons. A 4.10 center sectio from a later truck will fit, they can be found in trucks thru 1972.
     
  12. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 12,989

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

  13. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    Well i found a bunch of numbers on the block, but still nothing that resembles a VIN ID tag. Still looking it over ..frame, cab, nose, steering box firewall, etc hoping to find a tag somewhere. If not will be calling for DOT or Shereiff to do inspection so I can get a NEW tag made for it and be able to title and register it.

    Also, I am looking online to see what gear ratio I should swap to in the rear end and if I can match up the trans or maybe swap it out also. I want more speed as well as to build up the load capabilities.

    That's where I am at with it now
     
  14. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    The speedometer maxes out at either 100 or 110 mph.

    And I really do not want a half ton truck. I'll keep it as original as possible, save for the gears and such to give it more umph and speed.

    What I am trying to do is build up a workhorse that can shit n git on the highways when needed.
     
  15. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    1958 3800 235 6....110 MPH

    It will easily do that if the cliff is high enough.

    Higher Gears won't help umph at all. What marginal gains you get at the top take it away from the bottom.

    The 235 is a low horse power engine. Any highway gear that will let it run 80 will make it near impossible to get there. The 235 just does not have enough ass especially in a 3/4 ton.

    Any gear that will be practical still needs to be fairly low. 3.90....3.73 at the highest.
    What will this gain you? Maybe 10 mph? Personally I think it's too much work for too little gain.

    Old 3/4 tons are fun. They have quickness down low. They are a blast to bang through the gears. Fast they are not. Your truck will like 50 mph. It may can do short bursts to 70 but that's extreme. It is what it is.

    They can haul stuff.
    With a flat bed they can haul a lot of stuff and be quite useful.

    I would focus my money and energy in...tag, brakes, wiring, body, bed and tires. The basics. If you have never done this you are going to find just how big of a challenge it is to just do the basics and do them right.
     
    sevenhills1952 likes this.
  16. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Is it just me but.....those straight as an arrow frame rails makes me think this may be a 1 ton?
    I'm not up on Task Force trucks though.
     
    Mister E. likes this.
  17. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 2,426

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    That rear axle should be an HO72. The lowest gear ratio available for it is 4.10, there have been rumors of 3.73 being available, but I have never seen one. Used in GM trucks from 1949-72. The center section drops out, so they are easy to change.
     
    Mister E. likes this.
  18. sevenhills1952
    Joined: Mar 14, 2018
    Posts: 490

    sevenhills1952

    This is from Wiki...Chevy Task Force trucks

    1958: First year for fleetside bed, significant redesign of front end. All light-duty trucks are now called "Apache", medium-duty trucks called "Viking", and heavy-duty trucks called "Spartan".

    So ,to me, it's confusing in that I would think Apache should be 1/2 ton, but in pictures it looks like at one point someone welded in to make a 5th wheel hitch. Can you tell if back frame was added on?

    Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
     
  19. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    That back section was off the tail from what I could see and a new rear bumper attached. It has massive springs in it and it sits up quite high from the ground! She's definitely NOT a half ton!
    I looked up the serial/or vin number since the vin plate on the drivers door jam is not possible to be read and it comes back as either a 3/4 or 1 ton!
    The serial/vin that I found was on the front frame by the steering box!
    It also has a rear end that is setup to go either way, singles or duals.
    Right now its got the original singles, I'd like to run it with some low pro duals just for the look of it. (;

    I'm not expecting a lot, just a little more speed to keep up driving to town and back is all. The speed limit here is between 65 to 80 mph.

    Anyway, I appreciate all the responses and feedback. I will continue to update as I can.

    Thanks all.
     
  20. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

  21. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    The quote I posted was from that dead link....it's a internet thing, you can read it off of google search but the thread has been deleted.
    According to that, the VIN should be somewhere around the steering gear.
     
  22. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    Ok.
    That must be the numbers that I found on the frame next to the steering box.
    But its only 9 digits long.
    And when I try to look it up chevy and gm websites all have 11 or 13 digits.

    I'm stumped

    **Update**
    Found paper work with complete VIN# But it is still only 11 digits vs the current 17 digits vin numbers.
    Now what?
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2018
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 15,243

    gimpyshotrods
    Member

  24. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    Ok here's another thought...

    I got the head lights working, and the horn. But the turn signals don't work and the brake lights. Ideas? Thoughts?
    Thanks.

    I already bought a wiring kit at the parts store, but the universal wiring does not quite match up. Possibly because the wiring harness over the years being faded or bleached by heat or whatever are not the same as the should be.
     
  25. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Get a shop manual for that year truck. It has the wiring schematic.
    It may never have had turn signals. It may have the column switch but it may have never been wired in.
    The passenger tailight was optional on step sides and flatbeds until about 59 or so maybe into the early 60s. Turn signals were optional.....a dealership option. The rear bumper was optional into the 1990s.
    Fleetsides had both tailights but maybe not signals.
    Do you have the flasher and the switch?
    Check grounds...
    Grounds are the most common issue with tail and brake lights.
     
    54vicky likes this.
  26. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    The prior owner had wired up turn signals but no brake lights or revere lights.
    It has the factory turn switch and all that. The flasher I am unsure. I will have to go through the fuse box and see what is there.
    Anyway, I snagged some tail lights off another rig there and the brackets along with. So they are bolted on. Now just a matter of wiring them up and checking for signals, tail, and brake lights.
     
  27. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    Hey folks, didnt forget about you all. Here is an update as of today!!

    Got a set of duals off another 1 ton and they matched up fine!
    Only thing is back then they were split rims, so I found a garage that said they will clean them up and make them safe to use!
    Never had em before so, My brother told Me to.make out My will.

    lmao
    Sizes are 7.00 - 18

    Anyway here's some pics
     

    Attached Files:

  28. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 4,639

    BJR
    Member
    from Minnesota

    If you ever get a flat on the road you will have a very hard time finding someone to work on split rims.
     
  29. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 2,569

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    "Split rims" are not inherently dangerous, if they are in good condition.

    There is a variant called "widow makers" though - (Budd?) RH-5° probably won't find too many willing to work on those however.
     
    54vicky and Mister E. like this.
  30. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 141

    Mister E.
    Member

    Yeah. I kinda figured that. I'm only using these here at the shop until I can find a set of regular dually rims that will fit.

    I'd just use these like at a "cruise in"
    Or coffee break as some of the classic shows are called now. I won't be driving highway with "KILLER WHEELS" that's for sure!
     

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