The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scoop, Apr 10, 2015.
Shouldn't be too hard to out smart brake fluid.
I built a simple flat 1/4" plate with 1/8 rubber glued to it i clamp to master cyl top it is tapped for a male air quick disconnect I attach a regulator set at 15lbs an go to each bleeder starting at fartherst one an usually when I get fluid at all 4 corners it ready to drive..I have never had much luck bleeding with a new dry system. With just pumping the pedal...
Get a vacula brake bleeder (even the HF version works very well) or at least a mityvac hand vacuum pump, though this will give your hands a workout. Always have had good results vacuum bleeding.
A good way to see if there is a blocked passage. I also wouldn't put any residual valve on it. The S10 master should have them.
If you have the front brake line plumbed to the front of the master cylinder you will have that problem. The front brakes should always connect to the rear port. If the cylinder is mounted backwards it would still be the section that the rod pushes in first.
The primary (or "rear" port) doesn't always go to the fronts! Below are two examples with obvious primary rear/secondary front brake plumbing. The main thing to know is how the master you are using was designed to be plumbed, if not obvious as the examples below.
I read this whole thread and I can't figure out if he's even gotten fluid to the calipers? Has he answered that?
You need to go, A to B, fluid there? If yes then B to C, fluid there? If yes then on and on.
What he said.
Simple flow of fluid.
The fluid has to come out of the master cylinder first!!!!!!!!!!!! No matter what port he is using........
Might suggest Loosening both back bleeders letting the master cylinder piston go deeper n the bore. Did this while back on 3/4 ton gmc giving me same problem. Is piston going deep enough is another thought , even though s10 factory stuff is pedal ratio ok? might check rod length? Good luck. Flux
Separate names with a comma.