Technical New wagon...loses power on ANY incline?

Man, I admire your perseverance. That is a really nice wagon and you are to be commended for doing everything you can to use the car with its original drivetrain. Realizing that The H.A.M.B. forum is more closely aligned with hot rods, I can understand why some of the posters are touting changing the engine to a V8, but I'm more in line with those who like the old inline sixes. I'm not in such a big hurry to get anywhere these days, particularly if I'm behind the wheel of a nice old car like this.

Don't give up yet - stick with it and you'll get all of the issues straightened out. Patience is a virtue - there are life lessons included in what you've been through in this test. The silky purr of a smooth-running 235 inline 6 with hydraulic lifters is music to my ears.

 

Update:

New water pump on. The bearing squeal is gone, but when I rev it up it sounded like belt was slipping. So when i went to tighten the belt, I noticed the everything is for 3/8 except for the crank...it looks like it needs a wider belt. SO...I think i have a a 3/8 pulley on a Belair in my yard. I felt around best I could and did NOT feel any bolt heads. My question is: when i pull the radiator- how do i pull that pulley off and put the other on? (this could also explain why it was overheating since old water pump wasn't getting correct RPMs, plus water pump was squealing- bearings had alot of play and appeared to leak some after looking at it off the car)

Note: I hate the guy who swapped the caps on the engine enamel at the parts store. When I painted my pump, it didn't match the cap or my engine parts... I now have a ford blue water pump in my chevy...but pump is circulating so it works.

Didn't have time to get right paint and redo- have to have it out of my friend's dad's shop by Thursday as he is getting another 57 and needs the space.

 

Update: electronic ignition installed. Radiatior drainer and removed from parts car. It has a double on it for the stock power steering pump. Will it still line up? Other than it being a double, it looks the right size. How do i get it off, and do i have to take core support out to do so??

 

The current on the wagon has something that stucks out...will these be swappable?

I can drive it at low rpms currently- just dont want to rip it apart and make it sit if they cant change out.

 

Small update:
Set gaps on the spark plugs to .045 as per the Pertronix guys. Went to crank it and ignition switch started smoking...

As you can see from the picture- the PO had tapped the wire going from it to the coil to extend...I was trying to get by without replacing just yet, but its that time. What gauge wire SHOULD it be? I have to look that up when I get home to make sure I run the right size wire. Once I get this sorted out- I will be replacing the crimp connectors on the lobe to solder connectors. Just want to point that out.

Waiting on the pulley until I find out if they can be changed out.

 

Since nobody jumped in I THINK those things sticking out of the pulley are for a CRANK used to start the engine by cranking by hand and could be taken off with no problems unless you want to hand start it.

 

You need a harmonic balancer puller. It should slide off fairly easily. There are a couple of bolt holes on the balancer that may need to be cleaned out to get the bolts from the puller set screwed in. Take the little cone end off the threaded center shaft of the puller or it won't go through the hole in the balancer. The end of the crank should have a dimple in it for the center shaft of the puller to ride in. 235 cranks were not drilled from the factory.

 

That makes sense. Thanks!

I have a 3 jaw pulley puller- would this work or is there a specific tool for pulling the harmonic balancer? Also, should I use the double pulley I have on my spare 235, or try to find a single pulley that is the correct one?

Thanks for the responses guys!

 

After reading thru all ten pages .....

This car is cursed ....

Looks nice but is a money pit.


Jim

 

Cheap pullers don't use very good steel and get pranged easily. They come off easily enough but might take a while. If there is an elastomeric (rubber) bond between the steel weight and the cast basket the damper should be rebuilt or replaced.

Installation is the reverse, a length of all thread and stack of washers will do it. Resist the urge to bash it on with a hammer, it works, we've all done it, but. Make sure it's fully seated, or the pullies won't line up and it will start throwing belts.

 

Rent a harmonic balancer puller from Oreillys or AutoZone and it will cost you nothing. Use the correct tool for this job PLEASE! I will ship you mine to use if need be. All thread and washers won't work to reinstall unless the crankshaft was drilled and tapped.

 

Anyone else find it weird that the balancer is on top of the pulley and not under it?

 

Since the pulley is lower than the core support, do I need to remove it to remove the pulley-or should the tool have clearance to get it off?

 

Depends on the tool you are using I suppose. I'll take a pic of mine in a bit and post it.

 

Thanks- that will be greatly appreciated!!

 

Is this what I should be using instead of the 3 jaw puller?

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Harmonic...7627&sr=8-3&keywords=harmonic+balancer+puller

 

IF and it mean really if your balancer is ONE PIECE (no rubber insert) that a 3 jaw will work fine. If not and it is more than one solid piece of metal the other one in the add will be better.

(it's hard to tell from your photos if it is one piece or not)

 

How steep was the incline?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app