So I am new to y blocks and I have a 63 f100 292. I just installed a new intake from Mumford and got a 4 barrel 500 cfm edlebrock. Out of first gear it is a beast but when I reach cruising speed and want to put my foot in it it bogs down bad. I am not a carb guy and I will never claim to be and so I am asking for a little help. What I can figure is that I need to go smaller on my secondary jets. Anyone else have an opinion on this. This is my first classic truck and I need help lol
Do you have access to an Air/Fuel Rate meter? That would help diagnose the problem by telling you if it is going lean or rich. The carb may be fine and you may have a timing issue or other electrical problem. Given the limited information you provided, it could be any number of things and we would just be guessing. Any other info you provide would be helpful. Stuff like transmission type, ignition type, and more about the nature of the bog. Stuff like does it happen at a specific RPM, does it backfire or just fall on its face? Good Luck
Well I don't have a air/fuel meter. And the person I acquired the truck from butchered the wiring in the dash(next project after the brakes) I do know it is running rich by the smell. I have the tune kit for the carb but figured I would do some research before I just start changing things. The timing is spot on. And the best I can tell and this is by ear the Rpm should be around 2-2.5 when it happens. It is 3 on the tree stock transmission (not sure of what you would call it). I am here to learn. I have changed the exhaust to make it breathe a little better. Especially since I changed the intake and stepped up from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel. The ignition is still on points. The bog when you step into it just falls on itself and when I let up and do it again then it takes but is slow to kick in. Which makes me think there is to much fuel being dumped. I'm a motorcycle guy and trying to make the move into trucks
If it took off like a bandit in gear and then fell on it's face and then took off again after you let up on the gas for a couple of seconds and hit it again I'd say that you have a restriction in the fuel line. Falling on it's face when you nail it in gear as if to pass someone means just about what you thought, too much air for the fuel going into the venturi at that time.
Nice truck Josh. Remember 90% of carburetor problems are ignition related. The key to waking up that motor is more than likely the distributor. The initial timing setting, done by turning the distributor, is just a small part of the whole timing curve. One thing that will help is get a copy of the 1963 Ford Truck Shop Manual. Nod your head yes, you want this. And maybe a 1960 copy of MoToRs Repair Manual. Next, get yourself a good lincoln grease gun (every 500 to 1000 miles) a mechanic's vacuum gauge, and a decent voltmeter, and a simple test light. With common hand tools and these you can probably diagnose and fix just about anything. Another suggestion, and I didn't follow it, but it's wise to first focus with the brakes and steering. Whoa is just as important as go. But, since you won't listen to us old guys anyway, another important first engine diagnosis is a cylinder compression test. This is important because it gives a baseline on the internal health of the pistons, rings, and compression. Also finally as a general FYI beware the hood latch and safety catch on these era trucks are prone to failure at highway speed. This happens quite a lot. They get misaligned/bent and don't secure properly and the safety catch won't strike the pocket either. A bad combination. A gust of wind just so, or maybe a bump and you have the makings of a bad day. Often will ruin the hood, maybe smash the windshield, etc. I was lucky, though it was at night at around 50 mph, it only pranged the hood hinges. Woke my ass up quick though let me tell ya.
I believe the T pot dist was gone by 63 but people do strange things maybe the old style dist is in there by chance,that won't help matters.
Truck64 I have just gotten the disk brake conversion this week. I agree that brakes and suspension is the first thing I should do. I went back and forth on weither or not to do the crown Vic front end swap. I have desidided to do the conversion first. I don't like the idea of having non energizing brakes and drum on top of that. I looked everywhere it seems to find an 4 wheel kit but I got the front kit. I am planning on putting air bags all the way around for suspension. I have also been looking for a shop manual and it seems those a pretty hard to get as well. As far as the ignition I do want to get that to electronic instead of points. Unfortunately there is only so much I can do with the money I have. lol I do listen to old timers. I have been around long enough to know to take advise. And I know a lot of gear heads but they are all chevy and do not know anything about the y block. That is why I am here I want to learn about this truck and engine and from what I know so far is that the 292 is a stout engine and I want to keep it. You see to many LS and crate engines and I want something you can't find everyday. Part of hot roding if you ask me. Any advise will be well received I assure you
Check the distributor and make sure it doesn't have an old load-o-matic in there. Lots of things get changed over the years. Hope your project goes well and hang in there with the y-block
How can I tell if it has a load a matic dist in there from my understanding the engine is 100 % stock.
You will see small springs on top of the plate. Your year should not have one but you never know. I think they stopped using them by '57.
Shop manuals are reproduced, in paper or electronic form. Not too much money, and well spent. Trust Me. Always start with the basics. Compression test. Idle manifold vacuum. Want to know the basic mechanical health of any engine before dropping any money on it. Y blocks have solid lifters, and therefore have a valve lash clearance that should be checked and adjusted. The vibration absorber (or damper) inertia weight is bonded to the basket thru a rubber sandwich, if it is original it is no doubt junk by now and should be rebuilt or replaced. What happens is damper weight tends to slip off its clock or index relative to the keyway and consequently makes the timing marks totally inaccurate. This should be checked for now by finding true #1 piston TDC and verifying that the pointer is located at "0" TDC on the damper. The damper is an often overlooked component. The crankshaft will twist as much as 2° back and forth and this twisting will reach resonance at a specific RPM. This is a Bad Thing. The heavy weight on the crank snout is supposed to lead and lag this torsion vibration. If the damper is pooched it can't do this. This can lead to cracks or even a busted crank. Sometimes the damper weight will go its own way, with a detour through the radiator or whatnot.
1956 was the last year for the Loadamatic distributor. I also think there is some fuel restriction either in the carb or fuel line or fuel pump or even the tank
Grab the rotor if it will turn a few degrees counter clockwise it is not a loadomatic Look at points loadomatic are straight on 1957 up the screw hole next to the pivot sits off to one side.
So I got a new distributor and attempting to install it. I can not seem to get it to seat all the way. It sticks up about .100 or so I have tried turning the engine over by hand. Is there something I'm missing here
Getting the hex shaft that drives the oil pump lined up as the gear engages can be a problem. Usually turning the motor by hand while pushing down (making sure the dist is turning too, or you'll be out of time) lets it drop in. When I was good at it I could do it by pressing down and just bumping the starter. Mummert's manifold is a lot of manifold on stock heads and exhaust manifolds. My experience with those edelbrocks on y blocks is they tend to run lean, but not so lean as to surge or go flat. That doesn't mean it can't be rich at idle. So follow the basics as others have said first. Go to Mummert's site and check the casting numbers on your heads, so you know what you've got there. Both for valve/port sizes and compression. Go have a look at http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/default.aspx , there's tons of info on timing and everything else. Also check for social groups for your truck both here and at the Ford Barn. There might be some info that's OT here, it allowed there. Nice truck, and welcome to the yblock syndrome.
I've had that issue, but persevere, you'll get it without turning it over. You get the hex of the oil pump drive or the gear teeth. Let it go down on the hex, lift a bit and rotate either way, you'll find the spot. It may not be exactly where you marked it but close. You can time the rest if close enough.
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