New Style Ford 11" rear drum brakes question

I installed these "already loaded" 11" drum brake backing plates on my Ford 9" rear. I had a brake bleeding problem on the right rear wheel cylinder (couldn't get any fluid to come out of the bleeder) that I thought was a defective rear wheel cylinder and I had to pull this apart only to find out that it was only a defective adapter fitting that wasn't drilled all the way through that was the problem, so I pulled my right rear brakes all apart for nothing. These new style drums have a lot more springs and levers and crap in them than I'm used to, and I'm having a hell of a time getting them back together. I think I'm probably not putting things back in the correct order. None of my repair manuals seem to cover anything this new. Does anyone have any idea what years and applications these drums are from? That way, I can at least find a shop manual that covers how to assemble them? Are they some new style of Bendix? The wheel cylinder says "Bosch" on it.

Here's pictures of it that I took before taking it all apart. I took it apart probably in the wrong sequence, so I had parts falling all over the floor.

Thanks!

 

old trick is to do one side at a time and copy the "good" side.

Looks like a typical mid 60s-80s ford brake with self adjuster.

Brake pliers help when working on these.

 

I don't think I've ever worked on any drum brakes on cars newer than 1970, so I guess I'm way behind the times.

I have some of those brake installation tools and never actually used them before, because I couldn't figure out how they work. Feel kind of stupid asking about it, but how do you use those things? I always do it the hard way with some linesman pliers and a lot of swearing.

I found some diagrams in my 1989 Chiltons manual that look pretty similar to mine and they're called Ford "Type 1" brakes. Mine are slightly different, but hopefully with that manual I can figure out how to put em back together again. I guess these are pretty common and I've just never had to deal with them before. Thanks again Squirrel!

 

You should find a local person willing to show you how to use brake tools. If you were closer I would be happy to give you a lesson. You can't imagine how easy stuff goes together with the right techniques and tools on drum brakes. Those common Ford drum brakes are real easy to do with a little instruction and the right tools.

 

Quick lesson, although I should be taking pictures....but it's too early in the morning....

The handle end with the black thing is used to "unscrew" the springs from the anchor at the top center of the brake.

The handle end with the spoon shaped bit is used to put that spring back on, you use it as a pry bar, hook the rounded part over the anchor pin and pry the end of the spring to strecth it out, then let it slide off the end of the tool and over the anchor.



The pliers end of it is used to connect the spring at the bottom that ties the shoes together. You can hook the hook part around the end of the spring, and poke the poky part into the bottom of the lining of the shoe, and then squeeze the pliers and it will stretch the spring.

At least that's how I've done it. I may have been using the tool wrong for all these years, who knows?

 

Vis a vis Squirrels pic:

Use the black end - not always black - to spin the long springs off.
Put the hollow end over the anchor, slip the wedge under the springs open mouth and turn the pliers.
The inclined plane will walk the spring up and over the anchor.
After the spring is off the anchor, tilt the pliers to release tension.
If done right nothing flies off and it's plenty safe.

Us the end with the U-shape under the spring same place you put the wedge to get it off.
Just lever the pliers up and the spring will slide off the pliers onto the anchor.
Quick, easy and safe.

The hook and bent point end is used to pull other springs into place.
Hook under the spring and the point onto an anchor area.
I've used the shoe proper for the point, doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Get yourself one of the screwdriver looking things with a cup on the end that fits over the "nail" springs and spins the cupped steel washer 90* to remove the cup and spring.

There's a few other brake handtools out there, but the pliers and cupped washer driver will do just about everything.

 

Thought I'd point out one small one as far as actually using self-adjusting brakes goes.

We're using these big strong brakes in light cars for the most part.
And we tend to drive the cars easy most of the time.
I know, some of the guys like to say they burn rubber at every stop, but that's mostly in their mind.
Even so, these same guys back up easy just as we do and that's where the - self inflicted - problem lies.

Self adjusters work by rocking back and forth utilizing slack in the anchoring system to adjust the brakes.

If your self adjusters don't seem to be working after you've been driving the car for a while - evidenced by an E-brake that doesn't set till the end of handle travel - take the car to an open area (big parking lot etc.), back up, hit the brakes firmly, go forward, hit the brakes firmly and repeat as needed.
Speed isn't required, it's the firm application of pedal without skidding the tires is what does it.

Most times the E-brake will come up to snuff and you don't have to make a manual adjustment.

 

Or see if you can find a manual adjuster screw and appropriate spring, and take all that crap off there, and adjust the brakes every year.

 

For getting everything back in the proper place take the drum off the other side so you can refer to that side. You know it's right so why look at a book?

 

If he's like the rest of us, he took both sides apart before realizing he didn't know for sure how it goes back together

 

Thanks everybody for all the helpful info.

Luckily I only took the one side apart, so I still have the other side to look at for reference.

I realized last night that now I still have to install my emergency brake cables, and you have to pull these brakes apart to hook them up anyway, so I was going to have to figure these out sooner or later. I'll definitely do them one side at a time.

Thanks again.

 

I learned that lesson a long time ago. Do ONE SIDE at a time when doing ones your not familiar with. LOL