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Projects New Project: 1953 Oldsmobile

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by EnragedHawk, Jul 13, 2016.

  1. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    It's funny, I thought a booster would be the first thing I would do to this car, but I've put around 50 miles on since I got it, and now I'm kinda used to the brakes. My wife even drove it around some and didn't seem to mind. I'm sure a booster will happen eventually, but I'm not so worried about it anymore.

    Unfortunately, I'm still very much in the "lets see what else is gonna break" stage. So far, I've replaced the fuel sending unit, the pinion seal, oil pressure gauge seal, and I've looped the heater hoses. I'm still fighting an extremely bad oil leak and I can't figure out where it's coming from. I'm not so sure it was coming from the gauge lines, and I'm not sold on it being the oil fill. Is there any kind of oil passage near the front of the intake manifold? After about 10 minutes of driving, I'm getting a huge puddle of oil where the engine numbers are. I thought maybe it was blow by, but the oil cap is dry. Any other ideas?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


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  2. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Hit up my first car show with the olds. It's nice just being able to drive into and out of a show for once. No trailed, no hassle.

    Engine is still bleeding bad. Haven't had time to mess with it yet (school just started back up, I'm a teacher). For now I'm keeping the car within a few miles of home. Hopefully I'll have it fixed up soon.

    [​IMG][​IMG]


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    pecker head, mario711 and 36 ROKIT like this.
  3. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Had a friend come over and help me with the intake. That seems to have stopped a majority of the leak.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    We used a lifter pan gasket and some rtv. No leaks that I can see yet. Just drove to work and back (about a 30 minute drive). Car did great. Going to try and officially drive it to work in the morning.

    [​IMG]


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  4. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 6,353

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    Makes me want another 53 again.
     
  5. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Well dang. I got a few good drives in and now I'm facing engine trouble again. Still runs fine, but I'm heading a lot of valve train noise. I tried to pull the covers off, but someone rtv'd them on. I'll get some gaskets and try again later.

    I can't quite tell where the noise is coming from. I thought it was under the covers, but now I'm thinking it's the actual lifters. It's hard to pin point the noise. Engine has plenty of oil and good pressure. Hopefully the rockers just need a bit of tightening.

    If I can quit having to fix stuff, I'd like to get that back end dropped!


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  6. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 6,353

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    The rocker arms are not adjustable on those motors,there are aluminum stands that will wear and cause some noise.
     
  7. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Well there's great news... haha

    The closer I listen to it, the more it sounds like it's under the intake. Should I look into replacing the lifters?


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  8. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 3,987

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    This car is gorgeous. Enjoy it.
     
  9. chevydave1965
    Joined: May 2, 2010
    Posts: 370

    chevydave1965
    Member
    from Iowa

    Damn that's a SHARP olds !
     
  10. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Well, hell... Turns out it's the lifters making all the noise. It's hard to justify throwing more money at the engine and hoping I don't have another problem right after.

    What's even worse, is I don't have the time, money, or the back anymore to pull the engine out. For now, the car will have to sit in my garage while I save up.

    The guys at the shop down the street from me like me, and said they can pull and re-install the engine for around $700 (they'll even store the car for free while the engine is rebuilt). There's a place in Dallas I'll probably use for the rebuild. It'll run around $1700. It'd be so much cheaper for a junkyard 350, but like I said, I really like that 455.

    Anyway, time to start picking up pennies off the street.


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  11. Roger O'Dell
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 904

    Roger O'Dell
    Member

    I would use Hydroboost, if it already has power steering . On my 48 cad I kept the pedal under the floor, and tried the small diameter booster ( mustang type) but my big block had low vacuum, and I didn't get brakes for a second or so after I stepped on the pedal. I currently replacing it wit hydroboost.
     
  12. donno21
    Joined: Jan 31, 2015
    Posts: 94

    donno21

    Nice Old's. But please don't chop it.
     
  13. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,770

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Nice car, has it been clipped? Insofar as brakes are concerned, will a booster and MC fit on the firewall without too much work? I used a 90 degree under dash assembly in my 46 Olds and added hydroboost with tandem MC eliminating through floor pedals. Rules down are pretty tough for registration.
     
  14. Later Olds like that tend to make lifter noise when the oil level is low. Have you done a good oil chang and checked the level?
     
  15. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I'll keep the hydroboost in mind. I'm kinda used to the brakes now, but I'll add the booster eventually. Too many other things to fix.


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  16. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    My wife keeps saying the same... If at some point it does get shopped, it won't be for a very long time. I do like the lines as they are though.


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  17. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Yeah, I think it's a 70's nova front clip. Looks to be well done.


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  18. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    That was my first thought. I've added oil and even put in a cleaner, but it didn't help. The dipstick isn't very accurate, so I'm worried about over filling. I'll try draining and replacing before I pull the engine.


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  19. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Lifters are still clanging. Can't afford the rebuild. Just been driving the car locally, but still enjoying the hell out of it.

    A rebuild is super expensive (by my budget). I'm tempted just to do the lifters so I can drive outside of Waco if I felt daring.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


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  20. shadams
    Joined: Mar 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,488

    shadams
    Member

    Havent been on here in forever. Come back and you did this. I LOVE that car. So bad ass.....I am still driving mine no problem, but have been toying with the idea of getting a car so the fam can go with me places, kinda sucks riding around by my self....anyway bad ass ride, you'll get it all figured out...
     
  21. 71C10SWB
    Joined: Feb 5, 2016
    Posts: 1

    71C10SWB

    If you have any kind of cam beyond stock, you probably need to look into adjustable valve train over lifters. I've multiple big and small block Olds' and they all have a tendency to tick with bigger cams. You can eliminate most of it with adjustable rockers. I've ran Mondello/Harland Sharp and Comp Cams kits. Both work well. Comp kit is a definitely cheaper.
     
  22. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Haha, thanks man! I love it. It's nice to finally have a driver.

    I need to get back over to your thread and see what you've been up to!


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  23. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    This is the first 455 I've had, but the idle is smooth, so I'm assuming it's a stock cam or close to it. Should I try adjustable valve train first before lifters?


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  24. I'd say the first thing you should do is remove the rocker pivots and rocker arms and inspect the wear surfaces. If you're not sure what you're looking at, post some pictures here. The engine may not need a complete rebuild or even need to be removed. Unless you know something that we don't... :rolleyes:
     
  25. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I'll see what I can come up with. The reason I'm considering a rebuild is because of the amount of oil I'm seeing on the ground after every drive. A rebuild is more about peace of mind.


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  26. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 176

    sdroadster
    Member

    Pull the valve covers off, and look/feel the rockers for excessive clearance while turning the motor over occasionally. It's possible you are developing a flat cam. Flat tappet motors don't like the new oils the government has forced on us, and can wear and destroy the cam lobes causing excessive clearance.
     
  27. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 883

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    So, long time no see. I meant to get a lot done this summer, but I had a surprise 2 week stay in the hospital. Pretty limited on what I can do right now physically and especially financially.

    Anyway, at the round up last year I picked up a new steering wheel. I was just out in the garage trying to swap it over, but nothing fits together because of the telescoping column. I can get it on there, but I can have the horn button on it. Are there any particular kits out there for putting old steering wheels on telescoping columns?

    For now I've got it all back together. Hoping to lose the grandma steering wheel before the next car show.

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    [​IMG]
     
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  28. j-jock
    Joined: May 12, 2007
    Posts: 953

    j-jock
    Member

    Beautiful car. I love Oldsmobiles, but I have a particular affection for the 53-55 models. The donor car for my first swap was a 53 Olds engine, tranny, and rear end, into a 34 Ford 1/2 Ton.
    Assuming that the valve train is in good condition, I have found that getting by installing a new oil filter and an engine flush in a warm engine and idling it for 25 minutes, can often clear the obstruction in a lifter. It is too bad you are losing oil, because switching to a good synthetic oil will also solve that problem.
    Look on youtube, there are many videos on how to use a UV dye to find oil leaks.
    If the engine isn't burning oil, there are no noises in the bottom end, and it has good compression, it is worth doing a lot of troubleshooting before rebuilding the engine.
    I love the car.
     
  29. that steering wheel is from a 64 BelAir or Biscayne. Will be a challenge to get it on correctly I am sure
     
    HOTRODDORK likes this.
  30. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,412

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    Having experience with 455 Olds motors, I can say most loud valve noise can me blamed on worn rocker pivots and rocker arms. I'm sure using modern oils with reduced amounts of zinc and phosphorous has furthered the problem. Hell, we had trouble with these parts when using the old oils with plenty of ZZDP. Pull a few of the noisiest rockers and inspect the pivot points of these rockers. I'll bet money you'll find the bottom side of those aluminum rocker stands [pivots] will be worn into the rockers themselves....only cure is buying a new set of 16 rockers, 8 rocker stands and run diesel truck [ Shell Rotella] motor oil. Keep oil changed regularly too.
     

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