I've lost it.I've been trying to wire this 50 Ford and I've just lost it. I'm in over my head and don't even know where to restart. I've been off the thing for about a month getting my contractors lic., and catching up with the honey doos, so I thought comming in fresh would help. I've got most of the head/tail lights done and some of the motor done. I've gone to a one wire alt but I can't seem to grasp what goes where under the dash. It's an ez wire (LIES ) kit, and I have a shop manual for the car, but it might as well be in French...If there's anyone in the Palm Springs/ Indio area that can help I'll gladly pay for there time...
remember that every wire has two ends and you'll be OK.i usually start at the headlights and switch first,then the ignition and starter circuits,then the dash cluster,then the taillights and turnsignals.if i was closer i'd come by and help out,but i'm not so i can't-george
I like to start with every component in place. Makes it easier to wire everything. Also, grab a mid-sixties GM wiring diagram, and use those colour codes. EZ Wire generally uses those codes, for the most part. If you have'nt a colour-coded wire set, I pity you. Cosmo
AS much as I like the value of the EZ-wiring kits, this is where they really fall short. If you don't already have a basic understanding of automotive wiring, EZ's instructions are real weak. (Painless wiring ain't a whole lot better.) As far as your particular situation goes, it's hard to answer your questions, because we don't have enough info to help you. There are so many variables under dashes that there's no way to tell you where to start. I'll be watching this post as much as possible, so feel free to ask specific questions. I don't know everything, and I don't understand all that I know, but I will be glad to help with what I can from here! And good luck to ya! Wiring is a pretty fearsome monster, but it can be conquered!
The Ignition system is where I'm fked. It looks like the ez wire is set for a turn key system instead of the push button I've got...So I don't know what wire goes where. Also since I've got a 6 volt + ground with an alt now instead of the gen. if everything going to run the same (sniff sniff)I smell smoke and it's pouring out of my head
well first off , you are staying with 6 volt positive ground?, that is gonna be hard to run a alternator with positve ground , way too much going on there , back up and tell us the situation, did you think about 12 volt negative ground? or just 6 volt negative ,did you remove and replace the ignition switch and button or is it stock ford?,throw us a bunch of specifics and we can go from there
OK, coupla suggestions: 1. Convert to 12V neg. ground. Just do it. Especially if you are using hte "E-Z" kit. Your life will be much happier. The only thing you hafta worry about on this deal is you'll need to run your ammeter wires reversed from how the factory did it. Everyhing else will run fine. 2. for the starter switch, most switches have 2 posts on them. I have never seen one that mattered which side was hot and which side wasn't, so that's gonna make things a little easier. The EZ kit specs a wire connecting to the "Start" (or "S") position on the key-start switch. You should connect this to one side of your pushbutton switch instead. For the other side of the pushbutton, you'll need a hot lead. The original wiring (or at least the way it was when I got the car) on my 52 Chevy had a constant hot going to the pushbutton, but you might want to have this a switched (only hot when the key is turned to "On"). The former allows you to bump the engine over without starting it; the latter gives a saftey measure. Either way, you just need to run a wire from a source that is Hot whenever you want to push the starter button. I would recommend running a wire from the "BAT" post on the key switch, but any hot source will work. Hope this helps!
OK I got a 6 volt alt, I haven't changed anything else. Didn't think anything about changing the way it's grounded. WARNING I am a dumbass when it comes to this stuff so please type slowly
To wire the starter button, run the wire from the S (start) terminal on the starter solenoid to a 2 prong starter button. You may need to buy a different starter button, because the one wire grounding button isn't gonna work. I got one at napa and it looked identical to my original in my 47 ford. Then the other terminal on the button goes to the ignition switch for power.
You DON'T need to buy a new starter button. If the one you have grounds the sole terminal (if I recall, it does), you then need a relay. Wire the relay with the ground from the starter to the trigger on the relay. Wire the contact to the starter. I could be more specific, BUT, I don't know what relay you might purchase. A horn relay would work, maybe you could find that on a parts car (GM). Cosmo BTW, WHY do you want to stay on 6 volts?? Do you LIKE the challenge of trying to find bulbs and such?? Do you enjoy the feeling that the starter just might not turn over quick enough to start the engine?? Are you opposed to FM radio?? Or did you think it would be entirely too complicated to change?? IT ain't complicated AT ALL. FWIW, your starter will turn one way no matter which side is grounded.
Oh, yah, I fergot about the Fords using the grounding switch instead of the in-line deal. It would be best to get a 2-pronger to keep the start button functionality, or go with cosmo's relay idea (which also has the merit of reducing the # of hi-amperage wires under the dash). If you are as uncomfortable with wiring as you say you are, then the relay wiring might get a little complicated unless you have a knowledgeable person over to help. Getting a 2-prong button will be much less complicated.
I got some bad info on keeping the car 6 volt, this is my first time ever doing a rebuild of anything. I don't have anybody around who knows how to do repairs. Everyone around here takes there stuff and pays to have it done... Am I better off going to a turn key start and not use the push button (I like the push button,but am dieing to get this on the road) Thanks for all the help,and keep talking like I don't know anything about wireing (I DON'T )
2xc-- In your situation, I definitely think it'd be easier to go to the key-start switch, but I don't blame you for wanting to keep the pushbutton. Let me also say that I admire you for trying something new that you have never done! Lot of us tend to get into ruts and never break out of what we are used to. I would still suggest getting a 2-prong starter button if you want to keep that functionality. Normally, I don't like to make suggestions like this, but since you keep saying you feel helpless in this, you might consider starting over with a Ron Francis kit. These kits actually work better if you DON"T try to understand them. Just hook orange wire #57 to orange terminal #57 just like the color-coded instructions say. It's literally THAT easy. I find that 90% of the people that get messed up with the RF kits are people who think, "It doesn't sound right for this wire to go here, it makes more sense to put it there...". The RF kits are pricey, but again, they are the easiest by a long shot, and they are the most complete kits in the industry. (They include headlight, dimmer, and ignition switches.) Now, back to the 12V/neg ground thing. The ONLY reason I could think of to keep a + ground is if you are going back 100% original with your Ford. The fact that you are using an EZ Wire kit and an alternator already "negates" that argument. They also negate any argument for keeping 6V. If you plan to drive this car much at all, you will be much happier with a 12V/neg ground system.
Thanks for all the help everyone... Man it takes the wind out of my sail to think I need to get a new wireing harness and alt... It's just money I don't have right now, but if it's going to get me on the road I'm going to have to look at it. I talked to the guy who does our Companys work trucks and he got a glimmer in his eye and said he'd have to charge by the hour (I'd be buying xmas presents for his whole family ). I'll look into it more, until then, Any one interested in a sightly used (not-so)ez wire harrness and a never yused 6 volt alt....
Don't toss the EZ kit yet, I was just saying "consider all options". If I wsa closer, I'd be glad to come over and help you, but TX is a little far to get there after work one evening! I didn't realize you had a 6V alternator... really didn't know they made 'em. In the meantime, I highly recommend getting a copy of this book. It's a great resource with lots of wiring diagrams that can be adapted in whole or in part to almost any situation. Spending the $7 on this might save you from having to make the $400 Ron Francis purchase. Keep us posted on your progress, and don't be afraid to keep asking questions. There are many others here that know way more about wiring than I ever will, so hopefully you'll get the help you need.
I got some bad advice from someone about staying 6volt and got this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33573&item=7914815352 . I was going to keep the car as OG as possable but also been think about doing some custom work to it too. But what I realy want to do is just drive it as is for a season (cant drive it here in the summer when it's a 120 deg) Am I better off getting all new/used switches. Al my stuff now works ok but I can always stash them and replace later if I want... Again thanks for the help I wish there were some people near I'd rather pay a hamber than pay a stranger
Thanks for the advice. I got the book you refered me too. Make's things a little easier to understand... Now Here's my question. Since the ez harrness and the alt. is GM and oviously the car is still Ford do I follow the ford chart so I still use the voltage reg??? I'll be getting back to this thing next weekend...
2xcrash PMed me on this, and I thought it would be approriate to keep this out on the main board so he can get more help than I can give. Here is my response to his PM asking the same question as above: [ QUOTE ] Glad you got the book. It has helped me a lot.... but now I can't find my copy! Anyhoo, I find myself typically using different parts of each diagram on almost every car I have wired. There was talk on the main board about your alternator being 6V. If that's so, I have never dealt with a 6V one, so I really don't know how to answer you. If you have a GM 12v alternator, you may or may not need a voltage reg. The early alternators required one, but then they went to an internally regulated design, which is far more popular to use now. (Almost any aftermarket GM alternators these days are the internally-regulated, one-wire deals.) If I recall, that book tells you how to tell which kind of alternator you have. If you DO need a regulator, and you ARE going to run 12V, then you will definitely need a 12V regulator. I think the Ford piece would still work, but I'm not real sure... ...I agree that you should keep a lot tis discussion out there, as you are very likely not the only one having these struggles. But more importantly, there will be others who can help you way more than I can. There are some real smart people here! [/ QUOTE ] Maybe someone out there can clarify things better than I can?
[ QUOTE ] ... got this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33573&item=7914815352 [/ QUOTE ] Just looked at that thing, and it made me remember a couple things: 1- I am pretty sure you can use the bracketry off that 6V thing, but put it on a 12V GM alternator. 2- Same for the pulley, as the regular GM pieces have way too narrow of a groove for the belt. Seems like I remember that if you buy the bracket & pulley they would cost almost as much as what you paid for that unit, so perhaps all is not lost?
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