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Need to make a frame jig many questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by willbierfarms, Feb 10, 2014.

  1. willbierfarms
    Joined: Oct 25, 2013
    Posts: 145

    willbierfarms
    Member
    from palmyra mo

    I'm wanting to make up a frame jig to so I can box and z my model a frame what is a good direction to go do I use one big ass hunk of flat plate and just tack the frame to it or is there a better way to do it? Let me see your jigs and hear your ideas the snow is ass deep to a mgs player and the temp is colder than a well diggers ass and I'm getting cagy need some ideas on this thanks
    Will
     
  2. Since we are human and have primitive tools, flat and level will be important.
    This will allow you to use gravity, bubble levels, water levels, transit, angle finders and plumb bobs.

    I've built 12'x12'x85' box truss that needed to be true to +/- 1/8" on little more than 12 horses sitting on a lumpy floor. With that in mind, ill have a different opinion on this than many over thinkers and non checkers. If I was going to to 1 frame I wouldn't get real invoked in jigging but I would be real diligent on measuring and checking. If I were going to be cranking out 1 a week is have a nice rollover jig that loads and locks the dimensions.

    Here's my elaborate set up.
    I did make sure both tables were aligned and level as perfect as humanly possible. The floor is soooo far out the low corner needed shimmed a fuzz over 7/8" and the high corner has ground down fender washer. The rails are controlled width, vertical square and on center in 3 places, and width Via crossmembers in 3 more places.
     

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  3. Low Black Special
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 62

    Low Black Special
    Member
    from SE Iowa

    ^ How wide is that table? I'm also getting ready to make a table for fabricating. I am pretty limited on space and am planning on making it 60" x 96". It will have 2"x4", 20" on center across the width and cross braces every 24". For the top I plan on using 4" wide 1/2" plate spaced apart 4". And 3/4" all thread for adjustable legs.

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  4. The steel table is 36x60 with 1" plate.

    The other one
    Not really my go to fab table, its more of a layout and catchall table but it was here after I built it for a car body.
    The wooden table is 62x98 with 1" MDF top.
    It's built with Douglas fir 2x12s ripped in half and plywood trusses for the legs.
    It's dead nuts square and stays dead nuts flat with 250lb point load in the center. Will hold over A 500 lb point load in the center on the edges under the leg truss. More than enough for car body or frame. It's on wheels but can also be blocked up pretty easily.

    I have another table that my Vicky is on, but there's a mountain of shit piled around it right now. Stout enough for the whole car. The nice thing about that one is 2 guys can move it take it apart in less than 20 mins and it stores against the wall in 4"wide x 12 foot floor space.
    That has 1-1/4" threaded adjusters on the feet.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
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  5. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,529

    aaggie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I met some guys from Rhode Island years ago that bought a '30s era frame machine from an old body shop and converted it to a sturdy fab table. The two side members were 12' X 12" I-beams. They set the beams on some shorter pieces and welded in a few cross pieces then squared and leveled it up. Over the years they had built several cars and trailers and as far as I know it is still in the barn in Coventry. Fab tables don't need to be beautiful, just level and square.
     
  6. RDAH
    Joined: Mar 23, 2007
    Posts: 465

    RDAH
    Member
    from NL, WI

    I've heard that Summit Racing has parts to make one.
     
  7. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,759

    Pewsplace
    Member

    Hello from sunny California. If you are doing just one frame you don't need to go to all that effort. You can just use your garage floor and some square tubing to keep the frame together while modifications take place. You will only get in trouble if you weld too long or too much in one spot. Even with a super jig you will get in trouble.

    On a Deuce chassis I use a 1" square tubing jig that fits in all the body holes along with three locaters on the bottom and weld slowly. I will see if I can find some photos for you.
     
  8. donut29
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,518

    donut29
    Member
    from canton MI

  9. i built mine only because i had a bunch of scrap steel laying around, so i built what i could out of the materials.

    i had a 10' length of 4 x 4 x .250 and 20' of 2 x 4 x .120

    i cut the big tube in half and split the long piece into 4 equal parts. welded it all up and wound up with a piece just shy of 5' square. it fits really nice on a rolling steel cart that i found, and i can lay it up against the wall when i'm not using ii.
     
  10. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,397

    evintho
    Member

    I'll probably get slammed for this but I built my T roadster frame on this custom made king sized bed frame that someone gave me. Made a few mods like drop in supports and added a couple of legs. Lots of clamping and careful measuring kept deficiencies within 1/8".

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  11. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    I used 2 12" I beams that were 18 foot long for building O/t cars that were unibody just made sure it was square and the top was level , I used scaffold legs for levelers at 3' intervals had a professional welder notch the flange to mount the pipe for them . and it was fixed for 40" wide if i needed to make a temp mount I used a piece of 1/2 plate and tacked it on the edges to the flange , when I was done I listed it in a racing paper and it was sold in a week .
     
  12. river1
    Joined: May 12, 2001
    Posts: 855

    river1
    Member

  13. Stretchmobile
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 108

    Stretchmobile
    Member
    from So Cal

    My buddy had some 8" C channel I used to make my table. Bolted it together, and have 3/8 rod with turnbuckles X'ed in the middle to square it. Elevator bolts to level it. Spray black paint around each bolt on the floor so you can tell if it moves. My garage floor is anything but smooth. I lean it up against the wall when I'm not using it.

    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the crappy picture. Old camera. long time ago.
     
  14. luke13
    Joined: Oct 25, 2013
    Posts: 381

    luke13
    Member

    im just buildin mine on the garage concrete floor, with stringlines etc etc, i figure the road itll be drivin on aint that bloody level or square. as long as it looks right and measures up to within a millimeter then im happy, those builders lasers are real handy too.
     
  15. Low Black Special
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 62

    Low Black Special
    Member
    from SE Iowa

    Not on my floor.

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  16. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,652

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    On a one off frame modification, I don't really see a need for a frame jig. I think the first thing you should do is make sure your 80 plus year old frame is not damaged or out of specs. Starting with something that is out of spec will cause a lot of headaches down the road. I would also get the whole frame modification tacked together with small tacks and measure after every tack. You will be amazed how much a weld will move metal. A good place to start.
    http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1928-31.pdf
     
  17. Low Black Special
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 62

    Low Black Special
    Member
    from SE Iowa

  18. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 681

    AndersF
    Member

    I have this to weld my frame.
    Its two 100inch long rails on solid stands built by my father to paint wood.
    I put them together and chims til they were level in all direction.
    Then spotweld them together so they dont move around.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. My first few frames were actually clamped down to the legs of my engine hoist (cherry picker). I would shim below anything I needed to level it. Went slow, used my level and tape measure after every move, but they always came out level and square.
     
  20. TR Waters
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,439

    TR Waters
    Member
    from Vermont
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Mine. ;)
     

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  21. verno30
    Joined: Aug 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,032

    verno30
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mines Wood........Built several cars on this from Model A's to '32's to and Anglia GASSER!!!

    It attaches to the floor and adjusts on all 4 corners. I second the previous statements about measure, re-measure, and then measure again.


    [​IMG]
     
  22. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,759

    Pewsplace
    Member

    Here is a photo of a frame jig built on the garage floor. You can level the cross tubing with spacers and presto you have a nice jig that is removable and very versatile.
     

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  23. old round fart
    Joined: Jun 9, 2008
    Posts: 134

    old round fart
    Member
    from Norman Ok.

    Made mine from 4"x4"x1/4 angle 12' long with same material for cross members and legs. they are 2' outside to outside. I built probably 70 T bucket frames and they were straight. Welded the sides together then had a cross member for the rear kickup and a locator for the front to square it up. It was bolted to the floor.
     
  24. Humboldt Cat
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,228

    Humboldt Cat
    Member
    from Eureka, CA

    Diggin this frame set up... kick up in rear AND front?
     

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  25. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,232

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    Very crude, but this worked well for me.

    Blue
     

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  26. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 681

    AndersF
    Member

  27. Low Black Special
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 62

    Low Black Special
    Member
    from SE Iowa

    I'm almost done with this, so I thought I'd post some pics. I have less than $200 dollars in materials in this. The frame is 2x4 and 2x2 tube and the tops are 1/2" plate I found at the scrap yard. Holes are tapped to 1/2-13 thread. I'm not sure how many hours are in it, probably more than 40. 170 holes drilled and tapped. Oh I forgot, it's 4ft x 9ft.

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    Last edited: Aug 15, 2014
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  28. Low Black Special
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 62

    Low Black Special
    Member
    from SE Iowa

    Couple more pics.

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  29. That's gonna last you a lifetime.
    Should be able to fab all sorts of stuff on that one as long as the tubes stay straight.
     
  30. Low Black Special
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 62

    Low Black Special
    Member
    from SE Iowa

    I hope so. I'll probly do something different with the legs eventually but it will do for now.

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