Technical Need help with setting Distributor in SBC 350 HEI

hydraulic lifters have a spring loaded plunger in them, and oil sits below the plunger. When the engine is running, pressurized oil flows into the chamber, and it moves up to the pushrod seat, and up the pushrod. One little squirt each time the valve opens.

When you are playing with valve adjustment, some of the oil might seep out, and let the plunger have some play. If you run the engine for a little while, the rockers should not have any free play. You might be able to slowly pull up the valve end of the rocker.

Is it quiet, or does it clatter when the engine runs?

 

yes you will have some movement the adjustment I use is described here

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/165994-eoic-method-adjust-valves-works-2.html

 

Yes they should feel spring loaded.
Sounds like you did it right, should also be no tapping/clacking.
You "feel" for the point of contact of a loose push rod then add your preference of 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

 

One more thing that I picked up when he 'tightened down the distributor'. "It suddenly ran better, idled perfectly..." The distributor ground is made through the clamp, to the intake manifold. Said clamp was loose enough to freely turn the distributor endlessly, in search of the 'elusive sweet spot'. Methinks the ground integrity was 'sugared'.
Was there an incomplete ground here since the very first dropping in of the distributor?
An 'intermittent open' on a ground is as conducive to ragged running as an intermittent open on a power line.
This could have caused the suspected 'spike' later on in the compromised power module.
Have I seen this before?

 

Thanks Dooley, i thought eoic was more for solid lifters...always learning in here!

 

Thanks squirrel, i have yet to start it as i wanted to be sure of my settings, hope to start it as soon as my OCD will let me !

 

Thanks 31Vicky, i did choose 1/4 turn...would it be ok to add another 1/4 turn after starting the engine and just removing the valve covers and tightening it without going through the valve dialing again? This is of course if there is any chatter...or should i just go for a 1/2 turn (adding another 1/4 turn to the present setting =1/2 turn in all) prior to starting

 

I dont think so, i did buy a new connector for the battery /tach connection so i no longer need to use the electric xonnectors that were on before. I may have fried the module on the previous distributor, all i know is that this new one is hella better and seems to work well.

 

Yikes! So i turned over the engine and it started, but...i seemed like it was on a high rev? As if i was pressing the gas, and it back fired...like a snapping sound, the same sound i had heard when i was driving it under load? I am afraid of leaving it on, as i dont wanna damage the engine, good thing is it started? Idk...but maybe the valve adjustment is to loose? I am gonna pull the covers and see...i did only give them a 1/4 turn when setting the pre-load

 

Took off my valve covers to check my valves...all seem ok, here are a few pics...does my set screw look to deep in (recessed) thanks guy's!

 

Put a points distributor in it and it'll run, hei dist are often no good inside, points work.

 

Plus they are just no fun to look at. (Barf)

 

I would slowly rotate the distributor clockwise while spinning the mtr with the ignition on.

 

Did ya try turning down the idle?

 

Hei alway reminded me of a fat guy on a motorcycle, not sure why exactly

 

Can't say. Too many different factors involved.

 

Do all the lock nuts look the about the same height? The location of the inner lock nut is dependent on the parts used and valve stem height.

If you want to add 1/4 turn more for a total of 1/2 turn preload, it's ok to do without the addition valve setting.
Clean the tops of the nuts with brake clean or lacquer thinner and mark each one with a line. Then simply turn the line 90*, it takes the guess work out.

As a side note about the depth of the inner locking set screw, make sure the actual lock nut has enough threads holding on the rocker stud. If you have 7/16" studs, you should be using 7/16" or more of the threads, if you have 3/8" studs, I would still be using at least 7/16" of the threaded portion. Not enough of the threads being used is a real good way of breaking the tips off the studs!

 

i would wonder if any are too tight? that would cause a back fire under load.

 

This post has been such a Godsend...I really want to thank you for this post, I would have never ever have thought that pointing my rotor, 40* in front of the actual TDC mark (verified by piston stop) would start my engine...it is confusing, but at the same time, makes sense...when I hand crank the engine, I feel the compression stroke well before the actual TDC mark on my harmonic balancer. 40* degrees on the balancer looks to be the sweet spot of combustion.

 

I don't know who's more confused here. You, or everybody else .
Yesterday, in another thread with the same subject, you said you verified TDC with a piston stop. Did you ,or did you dream it? Now you say it runs better 40 deg. away.. Sounds like you are a tooth off now.
All this stuff needs to be checked , double checked , then moved on from.

 

So sorry, I was just going through old posts and remember this post, saved my sanity...I will soon update the post in the current one.

 

Sounds like the voice of experience.