well have a 305 small block chevy my car overheats first it was the radiator that got to hot.. but the water pump was workin fine then i replaced the radiator to a bigger one but still got hot after driving it for a while my brake gets really hard.. then when i put it on gear it wont move for no reason then i check the motor if its hot and it really is hot so is the radiator and water pump.. WHAT CAN I FIX THATS MY QUESTION??? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.. THANKS
couple thoughts and info from the net. thermostat-stuck/part open. water pump-pump fins worn/to much clearance in housing. head gaskets-wrong blocking passages. brakes master cyl push rod miss adjusted-holding brakes slightly on past the return ports in the reservoir. brake lines to close to exhaust. brake hose collapsed internally restricting flow.
305's have thin head castings and are prone to cracking, do a die test to see if that might be the case if not try the stat and check the w/p for the right rotation direction.
k just replaced the water pump it flows way better now but i noticed at night my right header pipe was glowing cherry red on the curve is this something i should worry about??
Check dist. for advance working and check static timing also. Late ign. timing will cause overheating. And no your pipe should NOT be glowing.
Is your entire right header glowing or just one cylinder? If it is just one cylinder I'd look to see if you don't have an exhaust valve stuck slightly open. If its the entire bank of cylinders, do you have a dual-plane or divided plenum? If so, i would check to see if the carb is clogged on that side and is feeding the right side of your engine an extremely lean AF mix. That will cause an extremely hot engine, glowing red headers, and in turn, boil and wreak havoc on your master-cylinder/and or brake lines which could cause your brake problems.
well first of all thanks for all that help ima check the timing this monday... and see what happens......... well its only one cylinder that is glowing red but the other side i have a header leak but its small.. carbuetor is rebuilt.. the pic all the way at the bottom, the header u can see the black part where it gets really hot.. next to the hedman header sign....
Is that aplug wire not connected? If you drive it for a while and it starts to run hot AND the brakes get hard, I think you might have one or more brakes dragging until the fluid cooks and locks things up. The extra drag is overloading the motor, hence the heating. Did I understand that right?
yea i took of the plugs out was changing the spark plugs..... well heres the thing my brakes work perfect and they go half way down when i press it but when i drive it for like 30 min they start getting harder and harder till it wont move no more... it grabs gear but wont move the brakes are hard as steel....
You need to find out which wheel is dragging and fix it. It is boiling your brake fluid. That will easily cause over heating of the engine and trans also. Easiest is to drive it a short distance and then see which brake is hot. Could be more than one. If so, you might have a hydraulic issue, bad proportioning valve, stuck residual valve, something like that.
K well i timed the car and it does not get hot no more thank you for the help... But now the pedal brake still gets hard...., before the pedal would get hard and i would put it on gear and would not go but now since the engine is way colder the pedal gets hard but i put it on gear and it moves so im thinking i shold take all the brake fluid and and clean the lines then put new flid... Is that a good way to go?? Or should i check what brake line is hard like scottybaccus said?? And if it is hot scotty what should i replace or do?? Thanks again
Jack it up one end or one side at a time and try to turn the wheels. If one won't turn, take the wheel off and adjust the brakes until it does turn. If it's a disc brake, cut or remove the brake hose and see if it turns then, and put a new hose on it. Same goes if both back wheels won't turn. I towed home a parts Suburban about a year ago that one of the brakes was locked up to the point of smoking as I went down the road, and went through a lot of BS to pull the caliper off. It dawned on me later probably the hose had collapsed and all I had to do was cut the thing off as close to the caliper as I could and it would have freed up.
Drive it for a mile or so and CAREFULLY check each wheel and see if one or two are noticably hotter than the rest. Or then jack it up and see if one or more wheels are hard to turn. Just a thought the parking/emg. brake releasing all the way? Those cables can get rusty etc. and hang up causing the back brakes to drag.
Just a thought, did you try to adjust the carb? Too lean will make it red hot. Timing will do the same..... Wait... you fixed the timing, sorry. I am guessing that you have an auto trans. Trans cooler lines run to the radiator and engine coolant heat will heat up the trans fluid. Does the car pull to one side when braking? Follow what scottybaccus said. Drive a short distance and see if one brake gets hot.
k i will do that today.. thanks well jeff i did fix the carb i rebuild it and i do have an automatic tranny... the car does actually does pull me left when i brake hard... i actually was messing with the master cylinder i made it looser cause before it was hard i couldnt even press the brake down at all oh and i dont have a brake booster is that bad or good??.. so ima check that out today... thanks
You're in Long Beach, CA right XGarfieldX? PM me and let me know where. I'll come over and give you a hand. Im local to you. -GothY-
looks like you could use a fan shroud, is that a 4" gap? also, how is the cam? gm had a bad lot of cams back in the day, caused all kinds of trouble. as far as the brakes, start small and work back until you find the problem. look for a cockeyed caliper, uneven shoes, check that the wheel cylinder isn't seized, etc. sometimes all it needs is a little lube. write that down.
All your other problems aside, please put a proper throttle return spring on that thing. Or 2. I might double check it's not doing the same in another cylinder on the other bank... that log might make it a little hard to see. You didn't try to run a pcv into an intake runner or anything like that, did you? Maybe a weird vacume signal port or something? Not familiar with those carbs. I would unwrap the alternator wire from the valve cover hold down, take the cover off and check out your valvetrain to that cylinder. Straightedge over the rockers might show something drastic if you spin it. Most of those issues are a valve hanging or burned seat.
I didn't notice this until johnny o said something about your carb, but your choke mechanism cover is missing! That means you have a constant vacuum leak!! (They suck air through the choke mechanism to keep the spring from overheating.) Either put the black cover back on, with the gasket, OR take the rest of the choke spring housing off and plug the little hole in the carb base. Otherwise you'll always be lean, especially on the passenger side where your header damn near melted.
It was already mentioned right off the bat but as far as your brake problems go, if they work fine and get firm as you drive your master cylinder piston may not be returning to it's rearmost position after braking and is blocking the return ports which is allowing pressure to build up with heat from the exhaust. You may need to adjust the push rod or add/replace a pedal return spring. Also you should check to see if your choke may be remaining closed as you seem to be missing parts.
k almost there..... the only thing buggin me is my header now still cant figer out why it gets cherry red....??? thanks for all the help i appreciated it.
one thing not mentioned here and it has nothing to do with your problem but I'd sure as hell move that fuel line away from the header. The photo makes it look like it's almost on top of it. That could cause 2 issues like boiling the gas before it gets to the carb or causing a fire if that should even think about leaking. Don't ask me how I know that.
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