I got tire/fender clearance issues on my '36 Ford front end probably caused by disc brake kit and wide bead roll on fiberglass fenders. Currently I have an after-market dropped front axle mounted in the '36 wishbone that has a Model A ball section at the back. I did that for clearance around the sump of the top loader 4 speed mounted behind the flathead. I am thinking that I need to build a hybrid front end to fix this. Knowledgeable types, please point out problems in my proposed solution. I have done the skinny wheels and tires attempts to fix. Looks like there are dropped '34 Ford axles with a kingpin to kingpin distance of 46". I am thinking of using one of those with a set of '40 wishbones modified with the Model A ball section. After I straighten the spring perches to be parallel, I may need a custom main leaf spring. Is this collection of parts feasible? Other ideas to explore? Thanks in advance.
I installed a 46" width dropped aftermarket I beam on my 34 (see avatar) with split 34 bones. It sits pretty low with a dropped crossmember and 'low' spring, but the 14" x 6" Torque thrusts tuck perfectly and have full lock to lock clearance. I'd assume you have a standard width (48"?) axle under your 36, so you would gain an inch of clearance on each side with a 46" axle. Have you messed with different offset front wheels? Post some pics of yours so we can see where you're at.
You're ideas are certainly feasible to get together and make work and work well. Some math and measuring is what you need to do to see if it makes any sense or leads to other modifications. Remember there's never just 1 change, ever. What's your current axle measure? ( should be 50-1/2" stock but could be 48-1/2" or ??) Do you need to move the tire in that 2-1/4" in from the fender lip? Can you afford 2-1/4" less room between tire and inner stuff? Can you afford the narrower distance between the bones, they will take a bit different path. The old school way was to slice and section the axle then get a custom main leaf spring. The after market decided to make them narrow and dropped right out of box, great idea but they lack in execution - looks, strength, materials, manufacturing process are off.
I gotta go out and measure my current axle. But I am thinking I just bought an out of the box 48 1/2" kp to kp axle and with the disc brakes I have added 3/4" per side, 1 1/2" total to make it almost stock width. Never thought of cutting a piece out of the axle. I can generate the heat with a 250 amp TIG. Do you just butt weld it back together or add a plate over it?
A pic of the fender lip would be helpful. I have a stock 38 axle and wishbone on mine and my steel fenders have conduit around the whole lip area and with disc brakes and 5 inch wheels I have no rub
Into the Little League World Series right now. Will get out and get measurements and pics later on. Thanks.
Here is one well thought out axle shortening method that preserves better strength with offset and overlapping cuts to maximize weld strength vs a straight cut with a butt weld. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...udget-bellybutton-40-ford-coupe.742104/page-4 The welder should be competent & qualified to ensure this weld is as safe as possible. My preference would be stick, TIG or a combination of the 2 as that is what my company used for all the registered code weld processes & critical work. The welders were qualified and in 35 years it was very rare to see a weld not pass an x-ray inspection.
I like it! That is a very thoughtful way of doing the cut. I have good equipment so I may just tack it together then take it to a real welder. Thanks for the link.
you said you have an aftermarket axle in it now...who made it? is it forged? while a forged axle can be narrowed if you have the skills....and it appears you do....i would suggest a forged dropped axle that is already narrow. Chassis Engineering make one 47" and they have the correct spring for it
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