Thank you for the instruction - that makes clear sense. I’ll definitely remember that... maybe I should have been less concerned about scratching the paint on the dif housing or used a rag or something.
Ok, Back home today and took a few more photos to better convey the current ride height. I think my last photo was a bit deceptive on account of the low camera angle so hopefully these will help. Again, this is the aftermarket model T spring, advertised here, with a few leaves removed and a reverse eye main: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-in-american-made.961937/page-2#post-12637172 Also, Great build on your av8 roadster! Beautiful job, your work has been a great reference for much of my own build. Thanks for sharing!
For the moment, the hose vents air straight out the breather tube (same tube that is venting air back into the crankcase), and connects to the intake manifold. I have not yet decided to drill a hole into the bottom of the manifold to hide completely, or to make a hard copper vacuum line to replace that rubber hose. But either way I need to 86 that ugly hose once I confirm the system is actually working.
Thanks for the pics. The way it sits is perfect. How does it ride? Any bottoming out? Thanks for the compliments! glad it could help you. Hopefully ill get my chassis assembled soon.
I have no idea how it rides, but I can’t wait to find out. I have a suspicion that the front end will bottom out before the rear, and that I’ll find myself re-inserting leaves to compensate. I’ll keep you posted!
Anxious to get my car on the road, I started on a straight forward headlight bar today. I started with a slightly mangled modelA crossbar, cut each end off and straightened, to my abilities, the center section. I made some new holes along the frame rails after settling on an ideal location. I want the option of pulling the assembly off when(if)ever I participate in some of the several exposition races turning up across the country. I only recently discovered these awesome step drillbits. Bolted in and torched to an acceptable radius. Next step is to cut and prep the ends for welding on that cross bar.
I made a bracket for a brake light switch I picked up from the local parts store. I’ll weld in a makeshift dog-plate to press against the switch.
Louis, thanks again. I just found your build thread.. great work on that 29! I’ll be following along as you finish it.
Maybe you need something more water resistant under the f.oor. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Shameless self promotion but I have lifetime guaranteed brake light switches in the classified Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Your balance of function and form speaks pure hot rod to me. And, man, this one is going to be one hell of a time warp. You're going to make old men, who were in the hobby, cry like babies, because they'll be saying,"It's just like old times!" Wail brother! You've got it on the downhill slide. Going to be one sweet little ride. Only thing I can see, is like Baskerville said of P-Wood's Speedster. "The welding is too nice." But, I ain't complaining. Wish I could do it that well. Good Luck on it, and here's a warning about daughters; some grow up to drive the wheels off stuff. They watch and learn. Get my drift.
I disagree - there is nothing worse than jamming a stud into a corroded hole that wasn't cleaned only to start a crack that would create a worse problem. Everyone I know runs taps into block threads to clean em up and then uses high temp thread sealant to prevent problems.
The Jalopy Journal
