Projects My Dale Velzy/Sam Conrad Roadster Build Thread

Thanks, it's kinda fun documenting it. Hub in, hub out, I was never quite sure what was what.

 

Those are 40-41 drums.

 

Really enjoying this build. Is the Krylon ok on epoxy ? And did you use it without any primer on the the front spring?

 

Thanks Alchemy, the backing plates were ‘40-’41 also according to the guy’s at Sac Vintage Ford where I got all the brake parts. It all came off of my ‘33 pickup that has been a hot rod for a long, long time.
Neil, I scuffed it with maroon Scotchbrite and sprayed the Krylon semi-flat black right over the gray epoxy. No problem. I almost always use Krylon primer under the Krylon paints on bare metal though. It works ok without the primer but I usually use it.

 

Well, I finally got it off the rotisserie and back on the ground. No incidents. I mostly work by myself and occasionally enlist the help of my wife and stepdaughter but me and my trusty cherry picker did just fine. Slow and careful.

 

What the story on that coupe?

 

I got the rear of the frame up on jackstands and installed the rear spring. Then put the rear end on a dolly and rolled it into place. Out comes the homemade spring spreader, the shackles and nuts. And there’s a problem. I can’t get the shackle on, it interferes with the backing plate. Damn.
So, I loosen the backing plates and proceed with the installation. It looks like I’ll have to grind a relief in the backing plates, I don’t want to remove material from the shackles in that area, they could fail. Oh well. A few steps forward and a few steps back. Two of my four rear radius rods are still at the chrome shop but I put in the two that I do have. Now I can finish the brake lines completely.


Overall it looks pretty good. It’s pretty standard stuff. Can’t wait to get the rear wheels and tires on it.

 

Long story short, I don’t like being without an old Ford to drive so when I saw the red coupe for sale locally I went to look at it. After some time (I was the only one to respond and actually show up) and some haggling, I bought it. It’s a neat older hot rod, new 430 hp 383 SBC, TH350, 9” all on a stock chassis with P&J suspension and steering, all nice workmanship, all TIG welded. Black tuck n roll interior with a cool wooden dash. A nice car for the money, and it looks a lot like a coupe that lived down the street when I was a kid, so it struck a chord with me.
Unfortunately, he had also added every restoration dodad money can buy, wind wings, cowl lights, step pads, chrome horns, you name it, it was on there. Top it off with some giant late model tires on aging chrome wire wheels sticking out of the fenders. I tried to take it back to a simpler look. I’m not done with it yet.

 

Well you're certainly doing it justice as well! Looks great!

 

I only had a little time in the shop today but I got a couple things done that were bugging me. A couple days ago, I installed the steering box temporarily so I would know where the brake lines could and couldn’t go. I’m glad that I did, my initial brake line idea would have made installing and removing the steering box impossible. Especially with the starter in the way. The steering box came out of my ‘55 F100. I made the hole in the frame just big enough to get the box in and out with the car completely assembled. I found it nearly impossible to get the nuts installed so I made a “nut plate” that I will attach to the steering box flange to make life easier.
You can just barely see the nut plate down in the hole….

I had a nifty old fabricated Pitman arm that came with a steering box that I bought years ago. I found that it fits the roadster perfectly so I put it in with one of the chrome shop batches. I love using old “heritage” parts….


I don’t remember where but I ordered a new drag link because I didn’t have anything nice to make one out of. Somehow, I managed to order one that was 2 1/2” too long. So I tapped it deeper and cut it off. I squared up the end in the lathe and now it’s right.

Details, again. The primer and paint closed up the recess I provided for the rear steering box mounting bolt. A socket on a standard hex doesn’t fit without messing up the paint. So I looked through my stash of old aircraft 12 pt. bolts but I didn’t have the right size. I ordered some from ARP, ($$…ouch). I’m not sure that I like the look. I’m thinking of using good old hex heads and just using the 12 pt where I absolutely have to. Am I being too picky?

 

Be picky Bob, it’s your build and you want it how you want it.
I admire the heck out of the details you are doing. And I also know you’re not doing those details for anyone but yourself.

 

I painted the inside of the frame with semi-gloss black Krylon because I was sure that I would need to drill, cut or weld on it somewhere in there and I could easily touch it up. Well, sure enough, I didn’t leave a path for the rear most brake line to get to the rear end. Oops.

No sweat, a little touch up won’t show….

 

I'd probably polish the ARP off the head and call it good.

 

I agree with Hitchhiker. This build will be so awesome and have so much to take in, I doubt that no one will even see that one bolt hiding in there.

 

I ordered some stainless hex head bolts, no wonder I have so many coffee cans full of hardware!

 

Coming along awesome! Keep up the great work!

 

I'm just curious, not really a criticism. Why didn't you use the right size tube nut to master cylinder thread size. That way you wouldn't have to use the brass adapter.

 

Good question. I had to go look.
The master cylinders that I have have a port for a 3/16 line, the adapter seats properly on the 3/16 inverted flare and converts it to 1/4”. I used 1/4” brake lines throughout since all of the hoses required 1/4”.

 

OK.

 

I pulled out the driver’s side axle and ground a relief in the backing plate for shackle clearance. A little VHT chassis paint and it’s back together. The other axle didn’t cooperate. My cheesy axle puller broke so I decided to just do the mod in place. It all went well until I realized that I had just sent grinding grit into my new wheel cylinder. Damn. Oh well. I touched up the paint and bolted the backing plate back on. Then I disassembled the brakes, cleaned everything up and put it back together. One step forward, etc. So now there is sufficient clearance and the backing plates are properly seated.

 

My 7/16 stainless hex bolts for the steering box came today, so while the touch up paint on the backing plates was drying I decided to polish the new bolts and see how they look. Much better. I even managed to use a hex head in the recess where I didn’t think a socket would fit. I ground down a cheap socket and it worked.
With a 12 pt in the recess….

With all hex heads….

Tomorrow I’ll attach the nut plate to the steering box and paint it. I’ll polish the washers and install the whole mess. Probably not for the last time though.

 

This is looking great!!!
Nice work!!!

 

Thanks Jim. I’m thoroughly enjoying this. I can’t wait ‘til I get to set the engine and trans in!

 

I can tell from your writing and the details of your work that you are totally into this. We both do things the old way and I like that. That’s how I get with my own cars.
This is one of my favorite threads and I always look for the updates.

 

This one is turning out great!

 

Really neat build!

 

Thanks. Progress has been a little slow lately due to family stuff but I got the rear brake drums cleaned, painted and installed. While digging through a box marked “roadster parts” I found a nice new proportioning valve that I forgot to install the in the rear lines, so some rework was required.
I also diverted to a couple other projects; it’s all cleaned up and I’m ready to reassemble the Treadle-Vac unit for my Stude. My red coupe required some minor brake work.
I’ll post some updates, maybe tomorrow.

 

So here’s a couple photos. Like I said, not a lot of progress but sometimes life acts like that emergency brake you forgot to release.
I applied Loc Tite and torqued the wheel studs, then put the drums on.

I also installed the shocks, and found that I didn’t make real spacers for the lower mounts. So I made some from 1 1/4” stainless rod. I’ll hit them on my homemade polisher before I install them.

I made up a little bracket and mounted the proportioning valve so it’s up inside the frame but easy to reach from the outside. Made a couple new lines.

 

I also temporarily mounted my nice new Walker radiator so I could fit my ancient grille shell. It has some damage from the past that I need to address, and some tabs for hood sides that have to go. I need to do whatever metal work is required so it’s ready to send, with the body, to the painter.