My craiglist find 34 Willys delivery

I have the original front spring hangers, still, the 12bolt 446 posi and mustang 2 is coming out, leaf springs olds rear end if I can come across one reasonableness an early 9" with long traction bars, etc, I wonder how far the motor the bbc needs to be set back to go to a bbc? What is a common setback on these cars?

 

Damn that is cool

 

Cheers Weasel but the photo of the dash isnt reversed, thats how it is !! JW

 

The panel and pickup are different in the front section.The roof opening on the panel has parallel sides and the pickup has a wider opening in the front of the roof than the rear . THe coupe and 4 door have wider openings in the rear than the front. I know as I make the wood parts for these vehicles . I hope this helps . JB

 

You make wood kits for these !?! More info pls !

 

Hey JB one of your wood kits came with a 33 coupe i bought last year,got to say they are very well made excellent job thanks Wayne

 

Yes Doug is in Oregon. I spoke with him a few years ago but cannot find his contact info. Gary Schmitt in So Cal (San Bernardino?) now owns 'Catch Me If You Can'. Here's my pathetic attempt at an artsy fartsy phot - that's Gary framed in the hole in the hood....

 

Good to see you on the Hamb John. John makes great wood kits from the original blueprints....

 

Am I reading this right ? I did not know these came with a six cylinder.

 

Willys 99 - approximately 15 sedans - no coupes - built and used by factory sales reps to show to dealers. Willys was in receivership and model was quashed by receiver. Allegedly a couple have survived....

 

Thanks Weasel, you do know everything.

 

Know we know how the MILK man got around so fast.

Godspeed
MrC.

 

Can you get a hold of me at your leisure John . Thanks.
Rob

 

Doug lives just a few miles from me. Great guy. I think he posts on the HAMB.

 

Sweet find! congrats.. Never happens to me . Good on ya.

Bash

 

The headers on catch me if you can look just like jet boat Headers? Does anybody know ?


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Been gathering the parts for my build, pretty much have not fiqured out yet to go with the sbc or the bbc, I have more parts for bbc then sbc. Didnt want to use the crower setup because I want to drive this thing on the street. I think I may have found some old school steel superior steel slot mags to use like the one On the orignal Dogcatcher. Going to run the same stance as DC. Got my springs and got my willys axel will be running lift blocks on the axel, still working on the brake issues. And have my OLDS rear too. Me and my son was messing around and MOCKED up a tunnel ram on the willys No I am not running those breathers or valve covers This car will be all old school stuff

 

That is neat!

 

Well my deal went through got me a complete 471 blower setup , one more part on the list


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Why not just make the spring mounting points taller, instead of using spacer blocks? It would be much stronger, and cleaner looking.

 

I plan on doing that too, just when I look at a lot of old gasser picks on Willys , I see slot of them with blocks under them.
Once I start putting the straight axel under it will look at how it sits and determine then If I need them


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Got my wheels mounted , 15x4, 15x8, and towel city pie rust on my way

 

I still have to put the axle under the front, just trrying to get the height I want? I did notice my rear fiberglass fenders where 2" wider than stock so. I need to narrow them back some stock, or find some stock ear fenders. Im building the car similar to the way the orignal Dogcatcher was. Might to to come up some in the back what ya think?

 

neat rare build, subscribed!

 

It will be a bunch cheaper to narrow the glass fenders than it would be to even buy junk steel fenders! The panel is looking great!

 

Yea will proably just narrow them back to stock width, willy parts ain't cheap


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Neat car. Nice to see the way it's getting done as well. (All these pro built street rod everythings are tiresome.)

 

amen!!!!!!!

 

Okay, first off I do everything on a budget. Since I do eveything myself this hepls out. Okay I slid the axel under the car last night(straight tube), after I weld and fab mounting points up and weld, with load on the car should sit around that height. Should I center the wheel in the opening or push it forward some?

2ND question, Should I run the tube axel or the straight axel with the lift blocks?

The axel and majority of suspension will be chromed when I blow the car a part for paint.

If I do not use the lift block I will have to have springs made arched higher and chromed (there goes a chunk of change)

What ya thank?

 

I run a 2" drop tube axle with NO blocks on my steel gold car. My friend Eddy's red 33 runs a straight axle. They both go down the track pretty good, they both get a little light in the front at 135 mph. But for the street there fine. I am trying to give you both ride heights. That drilled front axle is cool.Another friend of mine runs one and its fine. very strong.

Mark