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Projects My Apache...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shane Spencer, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Man you guys go overboard with your welders, a TON of restoration guys here (many restoration shops and local guys) only use a lincoln 135, including myself. The only reason you would need anything else is if you were doing frame modifications, even then you can still weld up to 1/8" thick with the 135. If you are looking for something affordable buzz, there is a 135 for $300 in Yuba City on CL. You could also try your luck and a welder repair shop. Seriously though the 135 works just fine for what you have to do. You could always pick up a ARC welder for cheap too for doing any other frame mods.

    I only keep mine on levels B or C, so half power and 3/4 power... that is more than enough to do patch panels. Get something you can afford then worry about getting something better.

    also there are a ton of them in Manteca, CA on CL.. the Lincoln 140 will work as well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  2. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Looks great Green, I am with Buzz on the smaller electric motor... Is there anyway you can just use a power drill that has a really low setting? You are Mr. Fabrication, I am guessing you can rig something up out of some angle iron to make sure it is always sitting at 90 degrees.
     
  3. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    I may actually just get a new drill press. Ive been lookin at floor models and found a nice 16 speed model for 60 bucks. Its a 17". I may just grab that

    And yeah his lincoln 350 is a TANK. He does some heavy duty shit tho, works at a machine shop and does a lot of side work on heavy machinery. I believe that thing will weld 1" plate without a bevel, or something like that. He just rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder for a dump truck and repaired the cracked boom that holds the cylinder. They had a backhoe holding the dump up while he was welding underneath it. Pretty sketchy lol

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  4. shadams
    Joined: Mar 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,492

    shadams
    Member

    Man that master access door is the shit. I didnt even think of doing something like that. I just cut a square out and added a couple hinges. Still need to put a latch and find a way to seal it up, your way woulda been much better....

    Everything is looking great man...
     
  5. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    That's pretty affordable...and I personally think a 135 would be adequate, especially since I have an old Lincoln AC/DC doghouse stick welder for heavy stuff.
     
  6. Drag'n 59
    Joined: Nov 13, 2006
    Posts: 501

    Drag'n 59
    Member
    from DALLAS, TX

    Looking good man.
     
  7. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    Green, $60 sounds pretty cheap...even if it needs some work it's probably worth the asking price. Man I need to move out of California....
     
  8. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    trade me because I want to go home. :D
     
  9. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks shadams and dragn', and buzz ill agree with apache. Ill gladly trade locations with you :D

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  10. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Did you get the bed figured out? We got a 63 bed and thought all was well till we got it bolted on and the steps are 1.5" higher than the cab bottom rail. I saw your front crossmember was too far forward that's why our bed was setting too far back. Don't know if you figured that out?


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  11. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Chad, i had to drill new holes for the side steps, fender and crossmembers on the blue bedside. It was a 67 bedside. Minus the holes everything is the same dimensions. Front crossmember needed new holes and i still dont know why ? Lol

    Also i didht get the 16 speed drill press but i did get this 12 speed. Guy wanted 75, ended up givin 60 for it. Nice old machine and a big upgrade from my benchtop. 240 rpm to 3200. And the best part, no burn marks while engine turning now that i have a slower rpm :D

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  13. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Damn lowrodder thats a good deal. I just measure the lower front and lower rear holes on the fender. Drilled those holes, made sure the step lined up and then marked out all the other holes once i had everything lined up. Pretty simple. Nothing on these trucks is 100 percent dead on anyway. I re measured after they were both hung.and its within 1/32 of an inch between the two so im happy

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  14. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Here's the front rail in our bed... This made it all line up correctly. It may have been your problem....

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1365982302.034273.jpg


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  15. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Ahaa. Thats why. The rail is directly under my front bed panel right now. No harm no foul i guess. Ill just move it back to the stock location. Thanks for that pic !

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  16. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Chad, what exactly is holding the front of the bed up ? Does tje angle iron on the bed sides sit on the crossmembers ?

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  17. APACHE FS
    Joined: Feb 20, 2007
    Posts: 569

    APACHE FS
    Member

    On the fleets it crossmember on frame wood on crossmember then bed on wood. So if the bed was sitting on the crossmember it would be 3/4" too low. I just have spacers between the bed/sheet metal and the crossmembers till I decide what to do.


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  18. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    The wood will go over that crossmember and then bolt to the front panel, it's such a short distance that the crossmember doesn't need to be under the front panel.


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  19. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    X2

    The bed strips and the front member support are all it needs for that portion. There is enough strength there. So what Chad said was correct; that portion doesn't bolt to the crossmember, the carriage bolts from the strips do. If you need pictures I will be under the pickup for a little bit tonight
     
  20. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Got ya. Thanks fellas

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  21. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Hey GG check out our progress on my thread... we kicked it's butt this weekend!! :D
     
  22. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    I got my visor today from classic parts. First impressions were great. Nice quality, thick sheetmetal, factory style brace under it. Got to the shop and good god this thing is literally almost an inch off on both sides. Im sending it back. Im not sure if i wanna go with a visor now either. But either way this things goin back. Anyone else runnin a repop ? Brand ? Thoughts ?

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  23. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    We just couldn't bring ourselves to drill holes on the cab to install one!!! :)


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  24. Glad you posted that sorry it happen ibuy most of my stuff from classic parts a visor is on my to do list in near future
     
  25. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    I wonder if the visor is the same one that everyone is selling... Would be nice to know who the manufacturer is ahead of time to avoid this in the future. Thanks for posting...sorry it's a garbage piece.

    Form personal experience I will say that the vast majority of the parts for these trucks that come from China are garbage, however the ones from Taiwan are decent and usually fit pretty well.
     
  26. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    I didnt see a " made in...... " sticker on it anywhere. But yeah. The fitment was horrendous.

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  27. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Green is kicking ass and taking names, truck is looking great!
     
  28. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    What we should do is keep track of who is selling crap parts...even tell them that we won't be buying from them as long as they continue offering substandard parts.
     
  29. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    My visors are fine and are from ClassicParts (4 total, 2 for someone else who needed them). I really don't think you are going to find a "better brand" for sun visors regardless where you shop; they are still made in the same factory, in the same sweat shop, by the same kid chained to the same machine... the only difference is the batch number. How is yours an inch off? Can you post a picture? Is it covered or uncovered? I specifically made my own to avoid this. In my experience of buying repop upholstered stuff... it just isn't very good or accurate, that is why I went with the blank board visors and covered them myself. It is really stupid tech if you want to know how to do it.
     
  30. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    I think he's talking about the big steel visor over the windshield...at least that's the one I'm talking about. Are we all confused yet?... I may be...lol.
     

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